I can't say I'm having frustrations, just the normal issues with a
new technique.
The one thing I see different is that I am using a photocopier (canon
pc7xx) so the toner may require higher fusing temp. I really like
this approach - I print on an inkjet printer that does 1440 dpi. A
while ago I tried to track down the fusing temperature for my toner
but it was harder than getting a straight answer from a politician.
I dont think my board prep is at issue - I use 600 grit wet-or-dry
sandpaper and degrease with acetone. Never had a problem. You
definitely want to rough up the surface (T&T calls it "activation")
so that there is more surface area thus making it easier for the
toner to adhere.
By the way, you might want switch away from steel based scouring pads
as it will contaminate the surface of the copper. I used scotch-
brite for a while but got really good results with 600 grit w-or-d.
T&T has a cleaning product that I've been thinking of trying.
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "grantfair2001"
<grant.fair@s...> wrote:
> Phil - I too found the instructions without pictures frustrating,
but
> did manage to get the conversion done - but not as quickly as Frank
> (Pulsar) predicted though.
>
> I did have a problem Frank did not mention. The PCB's (64 thou)
would
> not go through most of the time! I did some damage to the rollers
> though they seem to work ok in spite of that. Eventually I
determined
> that the two plates at the rear of the roller were too close
together
> and so were preventing the PCB's from passing.
>
> It was simple enough (when I finally figured it out) to shim the top
> plate up (closer to the roller) at a slight angle with some little
> pieces of 30 thou PCB, inserted at the two back retaining slots or
> whatever you call them. Since then there has been no problem. I
wonder
> if some of your mechanical? problems might be related to that.
>
> I have found that most of my PCB's only need one or two passes.
Three
> is the most I have ever used. The biggest board I have done so far
is
> about 2.7 by 5.2", so maybe that's a factor. Bigger boards will
aborb
> more heat, or need more heat to reach a given temperature than
smaller
> boards, right?
>
> I know different toners have different melt/fuse temperatures. I am
> using a Panasonic KXP-6500 laser printer, and the prescribed
Panasonic
> toner. I am using Pulsar (formerly Dyna-Art) paper. I am using 64
thou
> PCB material (which is apparently only 60 thou, so maybe I did not
> need to modify the thing).
>
> Another possible variable is the preparation of the PCB surface - I
> use SOS pads to remove oxidation, dirt and grease. They leave the
> surface clean and shiny but with some scratching though that's
really
> not the right term, just that the copper is very slightly roughened.
>
> I find that the laminator is much better than ironing for me, in
terms
> of consistency, and complete, undistorted toner transfer to the PCB.
> It sounds like you are having a lot more frustration than I am. I
hope
> the group can figure out some solutions to these difficulties.
>
> Grant
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...>
wrote:
> > Well, I finally broke down and bought one of these on sale from
> > Staples ($65 + tax).
> >
> > Overall, I like it but it did take some getting used to and its
far
> > from perfect.
> [snip]