I've had good luck putting legends over traces by burnishing with the
edge of the iron. (not sure if thats the correct term). After
ironing on the legend, I tilt the iron and rub with the thin edge.
It forces the paper to make better contact. You could probably use
anything with a reasonably small radius on a hot board/paper assembly
but you'd have to work fast before the board temp dropped below the
fusing point.
I also prep the etched board with emery cloth - currently using 600
grit. This roughens it up and creates more surface area for the
toner to cling to.
It works quite well, I can get really good adhesion of the legend.
I've got a picture around here some where, if I find it I'll post.
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Stefan Trethan
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
> On Wed, 23 Jun 2004 16:15:04 -0000, Dave Mucha <dave_mucha@y...>
> wrote:
>
> > Hi Stefan,
> >
> > My thoughts are in using a cloth or something that can be
compressed
> > easily. the cloth on top of the paper would push more on the
paper
> > so it would (hopefully) let the letters touch.
> >
> > Also, there is (expensive) transfer paper you can buy at hobby
> > stores. You can print on it and then like a decal, transfer it to
> > the board. This will not work with SMD parts as it also acts
like a
> > coating on the board.
> >
> > Dave
> >
>
> anything that doesn't work for SMD is of no use as i can make near
perfect
> legend on the top side of the board - for throughhole components.
>
> I also think something compressible might work.
> I had the silicone rubber lower pressure roller in mind, but it
seems
> there the temperature isn't high enough. I will see if cranking
> the fuser temp. up a bit makes it any better.
>
> It could also be that the paper is just to stiff to be bent that
much
> but i do not think this is the case because in some places the
transfer
> continues just besides the trace with only a tiny gap. (i wouldn't
mind
> the gap).
>
>
> This needs more experimenting, i'm sure it can be done.
>
> ST