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Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hot PCB toner Transfer

From: pierreraymondrondelle <pierreraymondrondelle@...>
Date: 2016-07-18

That makes things clear.

Thanks a lot


On 13.07.16 00:49, Harvey White madyn@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

On Tue, 12 Jul 2016 17:17:17 +0200, you wrote:

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>Thanks to Harvey, DuWayne and Ancel for your replies.
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>For the moment, My PCBs are made with a CNC router. Unfortunately, in a short while, I won't any longer have access to it. Prior to going into tremendous tests, I prefer to prepare the ground...
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>This confirm that the substrate must be hot. The temperature is depending on a lot of factors and trials look to be the best way to proceed. One parameter at a time.

The reason for going through the laminator (perhaps see any previous
posts that I have made) for 6 to 8 times is that the board warms up to
the right temperature (wear gloves) after about 4 passes.

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>About the transparent film, I remember that there were several kinds of materials we were used to use when making slides. One time, a guy used the wrong one and wrapped the foil around the printer cylinder, it was completely stuck, what a mess ! So better to Double or triple check the printing temp cylinder as well as the film temp withstanding before putting it into the printer. !
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>Another idea went to my mind, inkjet printers use clay coated papers. Perhaps, they're the same as Harvey told about. Did anyone give a try to the inkjet paper ?

Inkjets may have a plastic coated paper to absorb the ink. That will
melt (likely) in a laser printer. I'd only use something that is
rated for laser printers.

For toner transfer, you want a weak bond to the paper, and then an
easy release. Dextrose coated papers do this. Some may or may not
have had good results with transparent film. I haven't tried it in
years.

Harvey

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>kind regards
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