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Have you thought about using acetic acid ? isn’t that what vinegar actually is ?
I have glacial acetic here ,it is used for darkroom work. Stop bath is basically the same thing except it has indicator in it so you know when it goes bad I used to stick my fingers in it all the time when printing photo’s . it freezes at about 62 degrees I think ,so watch where you store it. The glacial you can water down to whatever strength you need ,stop bath you also water down. It comes in a small plastic bottle and you add a certain amount to like a half gallon of water . think the mix is only a couple ounces to half a gallon!
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2016 12:58 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Etching with vinegar, peroxide and salt
Yeah. I just have a hesitancy about muriatic, remembering some accidental burns years ago. J I accidentaly splashed a bit of this vinegar stuff on my hand in a moment where I forgot to put on gloves and nothing happened. That kind of thing with muriatic would be very bad. It etches beautifully – just really slow.
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2016 9:02 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Etching with vinegar, peroxide and salt
One explanation I was given is that the vinegar reacts with the chloride in salt and produces a very weak hydrochloric acid. I tried it but it took forever to see any effect on the copper. Much easier to go and get a gallon of muriatic acid for $10. I only use about an ounce at a time along with 3 oz of peroxide and get boards etched in about 5 minutes.