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I get the heebie jeebies just thinking about messing with hydrocholoric acid again. I remember when we had our pool how nasty that stuff was. Is ferric really no better/safer?
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 2, 2016 9:54 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer
John I either use photo paper or parchment paper and a laminator. I run it through the laminator about about 7 times then let it cool and peel off the paper. Printer is a HP 1102w and I use pool acid with hydrogen Peroxide as an etchant.
Good luck hope it works for you too,
Bill
Sent from my iPad
On Jun 1, 2016, at 11:01 PM, 'John Snyder' Kochcal@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Bill
I am also trying for the first time, how do you do the transfer to the slight etched copper board?
John
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2016 4:52 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer
I use a different approach, I clean the copper with something like Dutch cleaner then I put the board in the acid etchant and the copper will turn darker, just a few seconds to maybe 15 seconds. I remove the board rinse it off and then do the transfer. The toner sticks so good that if I use shinny photo paper all I need to do is just peel off the paper and the toner will stay on the board. Since I started to do this I have never had a failure. So a short pre etch makes all the difference in the world for me.
Bill N7OQ
Sent from my iPad
On Jun 1, 2016, at 3:40 PM, 'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
I tried it a different way – I took pages from a Hot Rod magazine I have (slightly glossier than the pages I was using from my other mag). I then printed off the two boards I’m trying to transfer onto regular paper, then put those in my Minolta copier (which has original Minolta toner) and then copied to the magazine paper.
I did about 5 minutes of solid ironing on each. I did not however try freezing the paper (my method was to just scrub it with a plastic scrub brush under water – seems to work fine. And again, it’s always the same.. I get about 80% including really, really fine details but there’s always just a bit missing in one area or another.
Does that toner transfer paper make any difference? I mean, I’ve seen this method work with magazine pages pretty quickly in youtube videos, however the PCBs people do tend to be quite small. Mine are bigger than the iron surface.
I’ll scrub the board down again and try one more time with freezing.. I just hate that I can’t see or tell if the toner has adhered properly before I start peeling away.
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2016 11:28 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer
My own take on that is remanufactured toner is probably different. It may melt at higher or low temperatures than the real deal.
The only way you can know is to try it, and if it works, hope that the next cartridge works just the same. There is probably more consistency with the manufacturers toner.
As I suggested in my previous. Forget using the acetone.
73
Tony G4WIF
Thanks muchly and one other question if I may.. does it make any difference using original vs reman/compatible toner? I have compatible right now. The only thing I have with original toner is my big Minolta copier.
Also just a clarification.. if I use Comet and then acetone won’t that leave me in the same place with respect to oils?