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For all the comments, insight, and help this group has been, I feel compelled to share my sucess using the toner transfer pcb method.
After testing all the ideas and methods mentioned in this list for the past few years I finally came up with a method that works 100% of the time, with 100% toner transfer to copper, and virtually perfect traces and pads everytime. This is not a fluke...I've had many of those, as well as many failures.
My method uses adhesive backed vinyl made for silhouette cutters. labelled Premium Vinyl (white) and purchased from Michael's Crafts. I use a GBC personal laminator, modifed as per the Pulsar website (changed one of the thermostats). To get the perfect transfer, I also use the 0.032" pcb, purchased from Pulsar, but available many places. Using this half-thickness board and passing it through the laminator 10 times, 5 in each direction, either x or y. I then place the (very hot) board/vinyl combo in the freezer for 20 minutes. At that point, the vinyl peels off, leaving 100% of the toner on the board. No clay residuals like I have with almost any type paper, other than the Pulsar or Chinese stuff. Perfect, clean, sharp tracks and pads.
The only downside is that if I use standard FR4, 0.064" copper-clad with this laminator I get flattened, bleeding tracks and pads, as described elsewhere in this topic. So, that is still a work in progress.
I hope this helps someone along the way.
---In homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com, <doug.forbes@...> wrote:Which laminator is best for PCB work ? I want to buy one but I'm not sure about which one nor the modifications that are required. The archived files don't seem to be very conclusive and there are few model numbers.
Thanks
Doug
---In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, <homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:I have never used vinyl but I had problems with TT and 'mushing' of the image when trying to use an iron that I suspect was too hot.
I had a clothes iron on 'Linen' setting which (not verified) corresponded to about 220 degrees C, IIRC.
I got a laminator and modded it to run at the suggested temperature of 170. Never had problems with mushing or blobby images after that.--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, <twgray2007@...> wrote:
>
> As indicated in the first post, I DID print onto the vinyl in my first tests. However, I did remove the backing in order to stick the vinyl to a piece of 81/2"x11" printer paper...so I could run it through the printer. Then I placed that, vinyl side against clean copper pcb and paper side up and ironed for 3 minutes. Not all the toner transferred. The problem could lie with the printer not placing enough toner on the vinyl or not enough pressure on the iron. I plan to experiment with both...different printer that I have had better success with and/or more pressure when I iron.
>
>
>
> ---In homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com, <earlannis@> wrote:
>
> Don't remove the backing!!! Print on the vinyl! Then place the toner on clean copper, add a piece or two of plain paper as a pad, and iron for 2 minutes at the highest or cotton setting.
>
>
> Air cool for a minute or two and peel the vinyl from the copper.
>
> Earl Hancock
>
> on Oct 21, 2013, AlienRelics <alienrelics@> wrote:
> That is a rather odd surface to use. But worth a try.
>
> Have you tried using the backing? Remove the vinyl, and print onto the slippery side of the backing, then press than onto the PCB.
>
> Steve Greenfield AE7HD
> One of the few who still signs his messages, apparently...
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, <twgray2007@> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for all the comments on my question about P1006 printers. I now have another question about using vinyl for toner transfer.
> >
> > I purchased a roll of vinyl used in the Cricut machine to test for toner transfer. Surprisingly, it actually worked better than anything I've tried so far in transferring the toner to the pcb, 100% every single time. The only problem I see is that, the toner seems to mash and spread out when it goes through laminator, making the tracks wider with uneven edges. I think because of the compressability of the vinyl, but it could also be the heat making it bleed. I haven't tried using an iron to see if it yields the same results.
> >
> > My question is: is anyone else using vinyl for TT, and if so, have they seen the same problem with mashing problem? Is there a fix?
> >
>