I'd like to add that if, after cleaning the board, be sure
that no water "beads up" anywhere on the board. If
it does, the board's not clean enough. If water is placed
on a CLEAN board, it will have a tendancy to lay "flat" and,
again, not bead up. Splash some water on a board before
and then after cleaning, observe, and you'll see what I mean.
Charlie
On 15 Oct 2013 06:24:57 -0700 <
branx86@...> writes:
The easiest way to make PCB is to go to Office Depot get HP premium
presentation laser paper 32lb #547719 runs through any laser printer. I
have HP laserjet 2200 and a HP 3005P , HP2600 Color ,HP400 and they all
work. The part no one talks about is you need to Clean the copper very
well then using a clothing Iron heat the cooper a little then put your
paper drawing over the warm copper then place the clothing Iron over the
paper on it's hottest temp. for a 1min or 2min while pressing down. Then
put your PCB in warm water and wait til the paper get soggy and you'll
have a board ready for etching.
---In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, <
homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:
Hi Keith, if this is your first attempt don't get discouraged, it takes a
bit of practice to get it right.
The best investment I made was to buy a laminator. The iron method gave
me undesirable result. Didn't get consistent results at all.
This is a quick reply since I am not near my laptop, let me know if I can
help more.
From: beefyzee@...
Sent: ?10/?14/?2013 3:27 PM
To:
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.comSubject: [Homebrew_PCBs] RE: Inkjet photo paper in laser printer - will
itmelt?
Today I tried the often mentioned HP Everyday Photo Paper (it's inkjet
paper). It seemed to go through my Fuji Xerox laser without any of the
coating coming off BUT it did not work like I've heard it would when I
tried to iron the toner onto the copper.
I'd heard that this paper just melts when you put it in water afterwards.
Maybe it did at one point but it doesn't any more. BOTH sides of the
paper seem to have a glue-like durable plastic coating that is waterproof
and sticks to the copper like strong glue.
I believe my Fuji laser printer uses a lower toner temperature than other
laser printers, supposedly new technology to save energy by requiring a
lower drum temperature. Other lasers may be more at risk if their drum
temperatures are higher. I've heard Brother toner melts at a higher
temperature than most others so maybe they have the highest drum
temperatures of all (this is all guesswork) and run the most risk of
getting this plastic coating melting on the drum.
From what I've heard on various forums these coatings do get sticky when
heat is applied, so I'd guess there is a risk of it sticking to a laser
printers drum.
After one try of the toner transfer method (today, complete disaster),
I'm focussing my efforts on the UV exposure method. I've heard enough
stories of hit and miss success with toner transfer, but lots of stories
of good repeatable quality using the UV method. Seems all the planets
have to be aligned to get it right with TT, right printer/toner, right
paper/transfer sheet, correct heat, correct pressure, even pressure, well
prepared copper surface.
Sorry I'm very would up and frustrated after my first attempt today LOL.
Keith.
---In homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com, <wb8nbs@...> wrote:
I don't think the clay will melt and stick to the printer (Fuser), but
the toner will... if it's laid down really wide and thick. I've had this
happen when printing large letters to use as a woodworking pattern.
Difficult to remove the paper wound around the fuser in my Lexmark 4039
10+.
Years ago, I learned not to use copy machine rated overhead transparency
material in an HP laser printer. VERY difficult to remove melted plastic
from a fuser roller.
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Jim <n6otq@...> wrote:
>
> Inkjet paper, particularly the inkjet paper made for photo printing,
has a clay-coated surface that's almost but not completely waterproof.
It has enough absorbency so that the water-based ink will adhere and soak
in a few microns, and then dry swiftly.
>
> Since toner is plastic-based, it adheres to the clay surface but not
very well. When it's soaked in water, the clay surface separates easily,
and anything that the toner is already stuck to will adhere to that, and
not to the inkjet paper.
> Jim N6OTQ
>
>
> On Thursday, October 10, 2013 9:50 PM, Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:
> >
> >> How do you know if the paper will melt in the printer - or is this
an urban myth?! Obviously a laser printer heats the drum and the paper
is passed over the drum, so there is potential for a sticky mess?
> >
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