I have a reasonably good pcb router, but I sort of agree with Tony
about its being a PITA. You have to change bits, the bits break, and
most importantly if the board is not completely flat, it cuts too
deeply in places and not deep enough in others. Of course, really
good machines map the surface to compensate for this, or you can use
a vacuum table to hold it flat, or carpet tape. The machine creates a
lot of dust, so I use a vacuum system to collect it, which creates a
lot of noise. That said, however, being able to easily do double
sided boards is nice and drilling holes is very fast and accurate.
Mark
At 08:12 AM 6/12/2013, you wrote:
> > A Quote from the specs, "Resolution 0.1mm on all axes". That's 0.004". So
>a
> > 15 mill wide trace could become 23 mills wide or 7 mills wide. I don't
>think
> > my boards cold take that level of slop.
> >
> > Paul A.
>
>
>Don't get too excited by numbers. You could add a micro-stepping driver and
>increase the resolution 10 fold...
>
>Rigidity is about the only thing that matters - everything bends. The less
>it bends, the more accurate everything winds up being. The drawer slides
>that uses and the dremel-type tool aren't exactly high-precision items
>either, so that doesn't help.
>
>I've always thought PCB milling was a bit pointless on a hobbyist level, you
>need too much expensive gear (as opposed to other methods) to make boards,
>plus it's noisy and a bit slow. Having it drill the holes might make up for
>it. Each to their own, of course.
>
>Tony
>
>
>
>
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