I tried to find some of that darkener stuff in NZ but couldn't seem to.
Tried the trick with the whiteboard marker instead, which seemed good. At least, the transfer looked visually darker afterwards and it worked well for making the PCB.
Though, I never tried a printout without the whiteboard marker so perhaps it didn't actually do anything.
I found the laser works fine for big SMDs and through hole parts. Really fine tracks and small parts I think will be a bit of a stretch.
I did try my Canon Pixma iP2000 which gave a very nice printout but which was horrible for actually blocking the UV. I don't believe it uses dye inks which is probably the problem.
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "cunningfellow" wrote:
>
> > Kevin Byrne wrote:
> >
> > I have LasarJet 4 600dpi. What can I do to
> > improve in opaque except two copies. Is there
> > a better way? Best KevinÂ
>
> I have used "toner density enhancement spray"
> (ebay "Gcc toner density spray") $40 is pretty
> expensive for a spray can full of solvent.
> It does kind of work though.
>
> Someone else on this list recommended dusting
> cerium oxide on the sheet and then melting it
> (the toner) in the oven.
>
> I bought some cerium oxide, but have not yet
> tried this myself.
>