I can see the 3 mm sheet being bent that way say upto 300 mm
in length. I made a plastic bender because I was planing on
doing larger tanks 450 mm length on 4.5mm thick PVC. You
seem to have done things quite nicely with what you've got.
What thickness material are you using ?
Did you have to reinforce all the welding zones with blocks
of wood before you started welding so that the "hobby glass"
sheets didn't bend under the heat ?
I found that I had to make special wooden frame inserted
into the tank so that during welding the pressure of the
welding rod didn't collapse the sheets.
From your past posts on the "hobby glass" I get the feeling
this is ridged clear pvc sheeting. Try burning some and see
how it compares to flame color/smoke smell to some real PVC.
PVC is very difficult to get burning by its self and
produces a harsh smelling smoke, (HCl fumes).
Markus Zingg wrote:
> On the web page of Steinel I posted you also can see the accessories
> available. I use the "Reduction nozzle, 9 mm" to bend the material and
> the "Welding nozzle" for the real welding operation. Works quite
> nicely.
>
> Markus
>
>
>>A friend of mine has got one of those Steinel LCD guns, I
>>should of tried it before spending my money on that old and
>>used Leister hot air welder. The air pressure from a hot air
>>welder is a lot higher than a heat gun, so I'm not sure how
>>well it will work, but if you had successfully built your
>>tanks from it then I cannot see any major problem with using
>>a general purpose hot air gun. All the reducing nozzles for
>>hot air guns also have a side vent that can get annoying.
>>The side vent is probably there to prevent too much
>>restriction of air flow.
>>
>>Adam
>>
>>Markus Zingg wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Seinel Modell HL2305 LCD
>>>
>>>I really can highly recomend this one. It's not even that expensive.
>>>
>>>http://www.steinel.de/englisch/index.html
>>>
>>>there click on "Products for DIY ers" then on "Hot Air Guns" it's the
>>>first one on the left.
>>>
>>>Markus
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>Markus,
>>>>
>>>>Which hot air gun do you use?
>>>>
>>>>Simon
>>>>
>>>>On 5 Nov 2003, at 07:40, markuszingg wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Adam Seychell
>>>>><adam_seychell@y...> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>This weekend I played around with my hot air welder again, trying
>>>>>>to get better practice. I bought three types or welding rod, and
>>>>>>small and large triangle type and a 3 mm round, each type comes
>>>>>>in 50 rods per pack. I found triangle is the best. For 4.5mm
>>>>>>sheet I use the larger triangle, for 3 mm sheet I use the small
>>>>>>triangle rods. Practice on lots of scrap pieces and then try and
>>>>>>break the weld when cooled. A ∗really∗ good weld will not break
>>>>>>at the weld, but rather the sheet its self will break. The trick
>>>>>>is to get the right temperature setting and nozzle distance from
>>>>>>the work piece. There is a fine line between burning the plastic
>>>>>>and not heating it enough to properly fuse. If the temperature is
>>>>>>too low then it takes too long to melt the plastic and so too
>>>>>>much heat transfers to the bulk of the material, which makes
>>>>>>everything deform and then you cannot push hard of the rod. If
>>>>>>the heat is too hot then it very easy to burns the plastic which
>>>>>>contaminates it with carbon and produces a weak weld.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Adam
>>>>>
>>>>>Hi Adam
>>>>>
>>>>>The trick that I use is the hot air welding gun itself. It's
>>>>>temperature is automatically controlled and it is having a digital
>>>>>display showing the temperature which also can be used to set the
>>>>>temperature requested. It then takes the gun probably 10 seconds or
>>>>>so to reach a new temeparature level and it then stays there. This
>>>>>really helps a lot in getting consistent good results.
>>>>>
>>>>>Markus
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
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>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Simon Whitehead
>>>>s.whitehead@...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>
>>
>>
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>
>
>
>
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