Managing trace width might be tough. I think my Ultimaker has a 0.3 or 0.4mm head, but of course the track it leaves would be wider as the plastic squeezes out.
On a related matter, I did see on Thingiverse where someone is starting to work on a pick-and-place add-on for the Ultimaker, and someone else made a rotary tool handpiece holder for the Ultimaker to become a drill machine.
I have my concerns about the drill machine conversion, as a plastic extrusion 3D printer isn't made to have high torque.
However, I do plan on making custom equipment cases for my projects.
Steve Greenfield AE7HD
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "tda7000" <Tda7000@...> wrote:
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Mars Bonfire" <mbonfire@> wrote:
> >
> > I must admit I enjoy reading this group, not the least of my enjoyment from the diversity of ideas on how to make pcbs at home. I am a toner transfer practitioner which suits me fine. I have done photoresist many moons ago when I had access to the coating chemicals.
> >
> > Currently I am working on building a 3D plastic printer (google reprap if curious) and it occurred to me that printing plastic (or a meltable material that would resist etchant) on a pcb would be yet one more way to put down etch resist...any I won't bet someone has not already tried it. Now you won't catch me trying it but...any thoughts?
> >
>
>
> As an etch resist I imagine it would work, as long as it stuck to the copper well enough. After all, melted plastic is pretty much what toner-transfer is, isn't it?
>
> Although I am not too sure about resolution, I can't see it managing fine-pitch SMD ICs, somehow.
>
> You might get better results replacing the extruder head with a Dalo pen. (save plastic, if nothing else)
>