Archive of the former Yahoo!Groups mailing list: Homebrew PCBs

previous by date index next by date
previous in topic topic list next in topic

Subject: Re: FR4 cutting?

From: "sheldon_mp_cooper" <bigbazinga@...>
Date: 2012-04-02

I did a Google search and found this exchange:

Easiest way to cut PCB's? (with no dust issues)

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/62929-easiest-way-cut-pcbs-4.html

----------

Post:

Tile wet saw. You can get small cheap ones where the blade runs through a water bath, no pump, and eliminates dust. A continuous rim tile blade may not be optimum but a segmented blade or turbo style blade should do well. You can get cheap Chinese variants of these blades that would be fine for circuit board. Look for a blade that states it's for concrete or granite. You can get them cheaply in the 3 to 4 inch size that fits one of these cheap $50 saws.

Response:

Now THAT makes sense.

----------

And since you mentioned Harbor Freight:

4" Tile Saw with Wet Tray

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-tile-saw-with-wet-tray-3733.html

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "engmstevens@..." <engmstevens@...> wrote:
>
> Thank you everyone for the recommendations. I made a few phone calls to some local guys in the maker scene and theyve all pointed me to something like this
>
> http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200309554_200309554
>
> I was originally hesitant but I had a chance to see how the edges come out and I was somewhat content with how they look.
> Honestly, after comparing this tool to a true "PCB shear", I can't really tell the difference.
>
> I think Ill check harbor freight online or some places locally in dallas.
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sheldon_mp_cooper" <bigbazinga@> wrote:
> >
> > I second that. That's exactly what I've been using. For a guide line for cutting with a straight cut aviation tin snip, I show the board outline in the Eagle image export used for etching.
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "leeleduc" <leeleduc@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I use 0.031" instead of 0.062" FR4 for hobby use. It's much easier to work with. I can cut it cleanly with a paper trimmer or with sheet metal shears. I use the toner transfer method and this thickness works well with my laminator, no mods needed. I also find that my drill bits last longer. At first I was concerned about the board flexing but this was not a problem at all. Give it a try.
> > >
> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "engmstevens@" <engmstevens@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I've been reviewing options for PCB cutting and my options are limited by the fact that I live in an apartment with no garage, so power tools are out of the question.
> > > >
> > > > I've looked into guillotines and brakes, hacksaws (fiberglass dust sucks), score and snap, and any other option i can think of but I can't really decide. Has anyone had any kind of real success with any of these?
> > > >
> > > > Hacksaw would obviously be the choice of inexpensive and easy but I'll be damned if I can cut a straight line. I always have to go back over with a file to clean the edges. Score and snap took forever. I've seen videos of people using 6 or 8" inch sheet metal brakes but never got any feedback when I sent them PMs regarding blade life.
> > > >
> > >
> >
>