thanks for that..
will try tomorrow.
too late today, do you set printer to darkest?
st
On Fri, 24 Oct 2003 16:52:35 -0400, Alan King <alan@...> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Just joined the group, mainly to share this for the moment. If you've
> tried the laser toner transfer and didn't get near perfect results, you
> should really try it again with fusing it 3 times as below. It seems like
> this would make the toner stay in the paper and be harder to transfer,
> but it really makes the toner and outer paper surface become one,
> transfer heat to the toner better, and then the outer surface tears at
> the edge of the toner when removing the paper far better. Also seems to
> dry out or 'burn' the rest of the paper coating that doesn't have toner,
> making it much less likely to stick to the board from ironing. Nearly
> perfect results and in the etch tank within 5 minutes of printing, I'm
> now doing SO and TSOP surface mount boards with ease.
>
> First, take a look here in the PCB folder. Might want to check in my
> stepper and light folders too while you're there. I have my own
> intelligent 3 stepper controller and a few hundred stepper motors on hand
> as well. Also have a homemade CNC driller that reads the excellon files
> from Eagle to drill boards.
>
> http://photos.yahoo.com/alantak69
>
> Fuzziness is from the camera not doing close focus very well. Note that
> the toner held the paper to it, the coating seperated at the trace edges.
> No paper in the holes etc, and an excellent pattern in the trash paper as
> well from the coating left on the paper. Far better results than I'd
> ever gotten with this method before. All because I printed a couple
> extra TSOP patterns by running through the printer again. Didn't care if
> the main board didn't come out, and it ended up working ten times better
> than it ever did before. This is using the JetPrint Photo paper and my
> HP Laserjet 6l.
>
>
> No doubt most of you are familiar with this page:
>
> http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteepc.htm
>
> I could make a useable board following this, but it was a lot of work
> removing the extra paper etc and touching up the board. Now it is simply
> a matter of a few minutes ironing, then some hot water, then some cold
> water, then peel. Etching within 5 minutes or so. My results are now
> super and easy, where before it was a lot of work to get a useable board.
> It's now so good that I had to share for anyone else not getting terrific
> results..
>
> Rest of the message is cut and paste from a couple I sent to Tom with
> more complete details:
>
>
> Hi Tom,
>
> Might want to try what I've described below, much improved results over
> just fusing once. Previously I'd assumed that having the toner fused as
> little to the paper as possible would be best, but now I realize that the
> extra fusing makes the rest of the paper much less likely to stick. The
> below method work about ten times better than it ever did before with
> just a normal print, at least on my HP Laserjet 6l. Results are now as
> good as any of the films, and no soaking just iron then wet then peel.
> Actually I'll attach a pic or two, they're small. Fuzziness is from too
> close with a normal camera, the traces are sharp. Note the white fuzz on
> the toner, not only did the toner stay stuck it kept the paper with it,
> almost no lifting at all. May want to add it into your instructions so
> people don't start off doing too much work..
>
> Alan
>
> Tom,
>
> No problem. I had always assumed that sticking the toner more to the
> paper would be a bad thing, but I happened to have a small test board
> printed that I didn't care if it wasn't perfect when made. I also wanted
> to make a small test spider pattern for a 8 pin TSOP part, so to double
> up I printed two on unused areas of the same paper. Also didn't care if
> it peeled a bit, so didn't wait and just peeled after putting under
> water. Lo and behold it worked much better than ever before, and after
> the fact it wasn't hard to think of a reason or two why that might be the
> case. Made another board or two now, and trace edges are razor sharp now
> too. Still get some minor mashing etc if ironed too hard, but looks as
> good as the commercial films, and even they have you soaking longer than
> what I'm doing now. I hardly even give it time to get wet and cool off a
> bit before I start peeling. It's quite good at TSOP level now, my
> original boards a year ago could barely even do 16 mil traces ok with the
> same printer and paper. Just had lots of peeling traces and having to
> pick at the stuck paper surface. No more toothbrush hole cleaning!
> Also not even bothering to iron nearly so completely now, just iron a few
> minutes pressing here and there to change the holes around and it works.
> Only had a tiny little peel or two on the last board, and I really was
> pushing it and didn't iron but a couple minutes or so, nowhere near a
> thorough job.
> I am abolutely positive the commercial paper people already hate me
> though, I have posted this to several places already, just finally
> getting back to your page. It was useable before but now it is hard to
> see anyone ever buying a more expensive paper.
>
> Alan
>
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>
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