G'day John,
I have thought of using this method, the problem is, I am unable to find an
old flat iron (as different from steam iron)
I know not to use water in a steam iron but the things these days have too
many holes in the soul plate.
Suppose I could still use one and keep using an ironing motion to cover the
board completely with even amounts of heat.
Will look on the past posts and check out your photo's.
Thank you for your reply John
Rod
-----Original Message-----
From:
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of John Clonts
Sent: Thursday, 19 May 2011 10:42 AM
To:
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.comSubject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
Hi Rod,
I'm brand new at this too. I used the laserjet toner method. I got an HP
P1102w laser jet on ebay for $60. Printed on a junk mail "slick" page, and
ironed on the board (I bought a $22 laminator but I don't think it gets hot
enough so I used the iron). Etched with the FeCl. I was extremely pleased
with my first result. See my photos I just posted last week under "JCC
First Board".
Cheers,
John
On Wed, May 18, 2011 at 11:20 PM, Rodney Jackson <
rodney.jackson@...> wrote:
>
>
> Thanks for that Erik, I do not have a CNC mill, unfortunately, I was going
> to try building one as I was able to afford to, but the old body is a
> little
> too shaky these days for such precision work.
>
> I have tried the ferric acid route before, this was in the days of laying
> tracks with the strips and pads transfers. I might have to look for a
cheap
> laser printer and have another crack at it that way.
>
>
> Rod
>
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Erik Knise
> Sent: Thursday, 19 May 2011 4:12 AM
>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
>
> Rod,
>
> There are 3 different methods people usually use. Positive or
> negative photo resist, toner transfer and milling. It really depends
> on what equipment you have or want to buy. If you have a CNC mill
> then milling the boards may be a better option. If you have a high
> resolution (1200 DPI) laser printer and a laminator, toner transfer
> would be a good option. I've seen great results with the photo resist
> but I've never tried it and not sure what is involved.
>
> As for etching a lot of people use air regenerated Cupric Chloride.
> Ferric chloride is an option but cupric chloride you can pretty much
> use indefinitely by regenerating it with air or hydrogen peroxide.
>
> --
> Erik L. Knise
> Seattle, WA
>
> On Wed, May 18, 2011 at 2:35 AM, Rodney Jackson
> <rodney.jackson@... <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au>
> >
> wrote:
>
> > Thank you Erik for your reply. I have been trawling through the site you
> > mentioned, it is indeed full of useful information.
> >
> > Seems like I will be days in getting through it all. I have made boards
> in
> > years past, these were by using stick on tracks and pads, a most arduous
> > task and the results looked very much what
> >
> > they were, __amateurish.
> >
> > There is a wealth of information in this world, one only has to FIND
it..
> >
> > Kind regards,
> >
> > Rod.
> >
> >
> > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
>
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> ]
>
> > On Behalf Of Erik Knise
> > Sent: Tuesday, 17 May 2011 12:28 AM
> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:
> Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
>
>
> > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > One of the members here, DJ Delorie, has an awesome website:
> > http://www.delorie.com/pcb/
> >
> > On Sun, May 15, 2011 at 11:37 PM, Rodney <rodney.jackson@...
> <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au>
> > <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au> > wrote:
> >> G'day all,
> >> as a newbie I guess this is the first question asked by all other
> newbies.
> > Could you point me to a F.A.Q. area where I might get some idea of
making
> > PCB's. I.E. best methods, how to reuse an old deskjet printer, etc...
> >>
> >> Kind regards,
> >> Rod
> >>
> >>
> >
> > --
> > Erik L. Knise
> > Seattle, WA
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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