Hi Rod,
I'm brand new at this too. I used the laserjet toner method. I got an HP
P1102w laser jet on ebay for $60. Printed on a junk mail "slick" page, and
ironed on the board (I bought a $22 laminator but I don't think it gets hot
enough so I used the iron). Etched with the FeCl. I was extremely pleased
with my first result. See my photos I just posted last week under "JCC
First Board".
Cheers,
John
On Wed, May 18, 2011 at 11:20 PM, Rodney Jackson <
rodney.jackson@...> wrote:
>
>
> Thanks for that Erik, I do not have a CNC mill, unfortunately, I was going
> to try building one as I was able to afford to, but the old body is a
> little
> too shaky these days for such precision work.
>
> I have tried the ferric acid route before, this was in the days of laying
> tracks with the strips and pads transfers. I might have to look for a cheap
> laser printer and have another crack at it that way.
>
>
> Rod
>
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Erik Knise
> Sent: Thursday, 19 May 2011 4:12 AM
>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
>
> Rod,
>
> There are 3 different methods people usually use. Positive or
> negative photo resist, toner transfer and milling. It really depends
> on what equipment you have or want to buy. If you have a CNC mill
> then milling the boards may be a better option. If you have a high
> resolution (1200 DPI) laser printer and a laminator, toner transfer
> would be a good option. I've seen great results with the photo resist
> but I've never tried it and not sure what is involved.
>
> As for etching a lot of people use air regenerated Cupric Chloride.
> Ferric chloride is an option but cupric chloride you can pretty much
> use indefinitely by regenerating it with air or hydrogen peroxide.
>
> --
> Erik L. Knise
> Seattle, WA
>
> On Wed, May 18, 2011 at 2:35 AM, Rodney Jackson
> <rodney.jackson@... <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au>
> >
> wrote:
>
> > Thank you Erik for your reply. I have been trawling through the site you
> > mentioned, it is indeed full of useful information.
> >
> > Seems like I will be days in getting through it all. I have made boards
> in
> > years past, these were by using stick on tracks and pads, a most arduous
> > task and the results looked very much what
> >
> > they were, __amateurish.
> >
> > There is a wealth of information in this world, one only has to FIND it..
> >
> > Kind regards,
> >
> > Rod.
> >
> >
> > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
>
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> ]
>
> > On Behalf Of Erik Knise
> > Sent: Tuesday, 17 May 2011 12:28 AM
> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:
> Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
>
>
> > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > One of the members here, DJ Delorie, has an awesome website:
> > http://www.delorie.com/pcb/
> >
> > On Sun, May 15, 2011 at 11:37 PM, Rodney <rodney.jackson@...
> <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au>
> > <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au> > wrote:
> >> G'day all,
> >> as a newbie I guess this is the first question asked by all other
> newbies.
> > Could you point me to a F.A.Q. area where I might get some idea of making
> > PCB's. I.E. best methods, how to reuse an old deskjet printer, etc...
> >>
> >> Kind regards,
> >> Rod
> >>
> >>
> >
> > --
> > Erik L. Knise
> > Seattle, WA
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]