The pen from GC electronics Cat # 22-222 is black with 1/64 tip. Not
sure just what the tip might be, but its not metal. They do dry out
easy, so be sure to cap it when your done. But the price was only $2.XX
something each at my local store. My plotter was $40 from the scrap
yard and is a HP7475.
Don Perry wrote:
> I have the plotter running - slow. And I always add angle to each 90
> deg trace
> in the artwork. A short trace placed in the inside corner of each
> trace. The
> angle is the shortest one that fits for the trace width. That helps
> and touchup
> after plotting does too. I also sometimes keep the pcb in the
> plotter after
> its done, and replot after it has dried 15-20. That CG pen I use
> doesn't seem
> to scrape ink off on retracing.
>
> Stefan Trethan wrote:
>
> > which tip has this pen?
> > which color has the ink?
> >
> > maybe i really have to search this bottle of fe3cl... and then try
> > different inks.
> >
> > The problem with using pens directly for me was that line with
> varies with
> > speed.
> > at the corners the pen slows down and the line with increases.
> > i didn'tlike this, the were small tears at both sides of each
> corner.
> >
> > don't you have this problem with the resist pen?
> >
> > st
> >
> > On Sat, 20 Sep 2003 21:06:55 -0400, Don Perry <mojo@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > > Here's what works for me, I use a HP 7475 pen plotter with a slot
> cut in
> > > the
> > > case. I use a GC #22-222 Etch Resist Ink Pen. 1/64 " tip. Its
> fitted
> > > into a
> > > drilled and honed out dried up HP pen. I have to keep etching
> fast. I
> > > heat Fe
> > > CL3 on my grill outside, in a oven dish. Wear glasses, gloves,
> and
> > > apron. I
> > > use a oven baster to spray the center of the project. The edges
> seem to
> > > eat
> > > off first and I keep the acid going to the board center. This is
> not a
> > > time to
> > > walk off and come back. I keep an eye on the board till it is
> complete.
> > > You
> > > can always put it back in, but once its eaten the copper away its
> done.
> > >
> > > Stefan Trethan wrote:
> > >
> > >> @Dave
> > >> thanks for the tip with laquer thinner for solving colophony
> resin.
> > >> i tried it and it is much better than alcohol.
> > >> The "laquer" is the same density / concentration in the whole
> jar, it
> > >> stays
> > >> good dissolved without stirring etc.
> > >> with alcohol it was always thicker at the bottom (with acetone
> too).
> > >> Dries quick and leaves a shiny coat.
> > >>
> > >> I actually tried it as a resin for etching (because the quality
> is much
> > >> better now).
> > >> The problem is the plotter pens i have (carbide tipped) don't
> leave a
> > >> thick
> > >> enough layer to resist HCl H2O2.
> > >> I will try repeated plotting and maybe try Fe3Cl which i have
> standing
> > >> around somewhere (Does it decay in a sealed Bottle?).
> > >>
> > >> But i applied it with a piece of wire and with a piece of a paper
> towel
> > >> "disposeable brush with needle-nose pliers handle).
> > >>
> > >> And this areas resisted the etching very well.
> > >> So i think the plotter pens simply make a too thin layer.
> > >>
> > >> any ideas? - would be great to solder the boards with resin layer
> and
> > >> also
> > >> protection against corrosion.
> > >>
> > >> st
> > >>
> > >>
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