Muriatic acid is also used to clean bricks and is available at many hardware stores.
CuCl is what you end up with when you use muriatic acid and hydrogen peroxide. At first it etchs as muriatic acid, but as it gets more copper in it, it becomes Cupric Chloride.
That is my understanding of it.
Steve Greenfield AE7HD
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Frank P" <qz9090@...> wrote:
>
> Andy,
> I believe the "pool etch solution" that was referenced, is in reference to using muriatic acid (use to maintain swimming pools). You can buy it at Ace Hardware in small quantities but it is hydrochloric acid and is very dangerous, so use this method with care.
>
> For more info. search this Yahoo Group for CuCl (cupric cloride) or Google "pcb muriatic acid".
>
> Good luck and be careful.
>
> Frank P.
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew Volk" <amvweb@> wrote:
> >
> > Moracalin -
> >
> > Sorry, I am new to this list, so I am not familiar with the term "pool
> > etching solution." Can you elaborate?
> >
> > Thanks, Andy
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of morarcalin
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 10:29 AM
> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Before Ironing the Printed Schematic - what do
> > you?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > I do this:
> > 1 - Wash/clean with Comet powder then rinse with tap water
> > 2 - Then wipe with Acetone
> > 3 - Tonner transfer ... etch ... and so on
> >
> > I do not use a kitchen scrubbing pad (the harsh ones) but a cooktop
> > scrubbing pad. Same thing as the standard 3M kitchen scrubbing pads but not
> > as abrasive so it does not scratch the copper at all when used with Comet. I
> > found out that scratches are not helping at all with very thin traces (I
> > speak 5 mils traces or 0.5mm pads for LQFP packages). You should find Commet
> > at any grocery store
> >
> > I found the second step to be absolutely essential. This forst cleans the
> > board and second the acetone "remains" help the tonner to stick to the
> > copper better. Be generous whit the acetone, use a kitchen paper towel and
> > don't wipe the board dry, leave it air dry by itself (acetone evaporates
> > almost instantaneous anyways). I usually do this right before "ironing".
> > Bought my acetone from Home Depot or Lowes.
> >
> > Then etch with the usual "pool etching solution". I am never going back to
> > FeCl ... :))
> >
> > I get consistent results each and every time. With a bit of care I was able
> > to do 4 mill traces - 5 mil are already routine. My advice, don't skimp on
> > buying a laminator - makes the difference. I got mine from here
> > (http://www.presentationsdirect.com/gbc-heatseal-9-creative-pouch-laminator.
> > html)
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> , "Frank P" <qz9090@> wrote:
> > >
> > > There has been some discussion about removing toner from a PCB, but I was
> > wondering what do you guys use to clean the copper clad before you iron-on
> > your schematic to the copper?
> > >
> > > I suspect some of the answers might include the use of Scotch Brite (nylon
> > scrubbing pad) and one the following:
> > >
> > > a) actone
> > > b) rubbing alcohol
> > > c) Tarn-x (not sure of the spelling)
> > >
> > > What works best for you?
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > >
> > >
> > > Frank P.
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>