Morarcalin and others,
I'm a bit of a newbie here.
What was your experience like with the Laminator? The Pulsar site seems to suggest you need the 'Personal' one versus the 'Creative' one that you recommend. Personally, I'd rather use the 'Creative' one because it only costs ~$25 vs ~$75 for the 'Personal' one. Apparently, the Personal one runs at a higher temperature and this is critical for good transfers?
Also, I have a Brother MFC 8840DN printer and I hear rumors that there is an issue with Brother toner? Is this true?
I'm just embarking on this journey. I just tried making my first pcb with a laser cutter to do the paint removal but I found I etched away some traces while using the sponge/fe-cl etching method.
Thanks,
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Macklin" <macklinbob@...> wrote:
>
> I do the acetone first. The I use the Comet powder with bleach. Then I work
> it over with the 3M green pad.
>
> Bob Macklin
> K5MYJ
> Seattle, Wa.
> "Real Radios Glow In The Dark"
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "morarcalin" <morarcalin@...>
> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 10:28 AM
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Before Ironing the Printed Schematic - what do
> you?
>
>
> >
> >
> > I do this:
> > 1 - Wash/clean with Comet powder then rinse with tap water
> > 2 - Then wipe with Acetone
> > 3 - Tonner transfer ... etch ... and so on
> >
> > I do not use a kitchen scrubbing pad (the harsh ones) but a cooktop
> > scrubbing pad. Same thing as the standard 3M kitchen scrubbing pads but
> > not as abrasive so it does not scratch the copper at all when used with
> > Comet. I found out that scratches are not helping at all with very thin
> > traces (I speak 5 mils traces or 0.5mm pads for LQFP packages). You should
> > find Commet at any grocery store
> >
> > I found the second step to be absolutely essential. This forst cleans the
> > board and second the acetone "remains" help the tonner to stick to the
> > copper better. Be generous whit the acetone, use a kitchen paper towel and
> > don't wipe the board dry, leave it air dry by itself (acetone evaporates
> > almost instantaneous anyways). I usually do this right before "ironing".
> > Bought my acetone from Home Depot or Lowes.
> >
> > Then etch with the usual "pool etching solution". I am never going back to
> > FeCl ... :))
> >
> > I get consistent results each and every time. With a bit of care I was
> > able to do 4 mill traces - 5 mil are already routine. My advice, don't
> > skimp on buying a laminator - makes the difference. I got mine from here
> > (http://www.presentationsdirect.com/gbc-heatseal-9-creative-pouch-laminator.html)
> >
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Frank P" <qz9090@> wrote:
> >>
> >> There has been some discussion about removing toner from a PCB, but I was
> >> wondering what do you guys use to clean the copper clad before you
> >> iron-on your schematic to the copper?
> >>
> >> I suspect some of the answers might include the use of Scotch Brite
> >> (nylon scrubbing pad) and one the following:
> >>
> >> a) actone
> >> b) rubbing alcohol
> >> c) Tarn-x (not sure of the spelling)
> >>
> >> What works best for you?
> >>
> >> Thanks.
> >>
> >>
> >> Frank P.
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
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> > Photos:
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> >
> >
> >
> >
>