I've had the same problems and complaints with the toner transfer method
on my first attempts at making my PCBs. I gave up and tried the photo
resist method which works a whole lot better. It seems like a little
more work at first buts it really not much more trouble and well worth
the more consistent results. I use the developer and boars from
www.jameco.com
When cash flow gets better I may try the pulsar solution. It seems that
Pulsar provides a more turn-key solution to the TT method that may yield
acceptable results.
Best Regards,
Steve Maroney
Business Computer Support, LLC
Mobile Phone:504-914-4704
Office Phone: 504-904-0266
Fax: 866-871-7797
From:
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com[mailto:
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
andrewmv@...Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 6:04 PM
To:
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.comSubject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner transfer problems
I've just started attempting my first PCBs with the toner transfer
method, and I'm consistently getting terrible results.
Some sections of the pattern transfer flawlessly to the board, while
others stay on the paper. I've tried varying heat, pressure, and ironing
time, but my results are always similar.
It never seems to be the same parts of the pattern that come though, but
I never get the whole thing.
My current process is:
1) Print the patterns in black toner on medium-gloss photo paper with a
Dell 5310n laser printer at my office.
2) Scour the board blank in two orthogonal directions with 150 grit
sandpaper
3) Clean the board blank with pure acetone
4) Preheat the board to about 150 degrees Fahrenheit with an electric
clothes iron. I'm measuring with a handheld infrared HVAC thermometer.
5) With the iron at about 400 degrees, I place the pattern toner-side
down on the board, and apply pressure with the iron. The pattern almost
immediately fuses to the copper, as I've seen suggested it should, and I
move the iron around the pattern regularly, applying a least two full
minutes of heat and pressure to every part of the board.
6) I immediately place the board and paper into a bowl of hot water, and
let it soak for 10-20 minutes.
I've tried variations on this...I initially skipped the scouring,
cleaning, or preheating the board. I've tried using mild pressure all
the way up to my full body weight. None of these significantly improved
or worsened results.
I tried letting the board fully cool before placing it into COLD water,
as I've seen suggested, and found that there was virtually no toner
transfer whatsoever.
Any tips or ideas?
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