Archive of the former Yahoo!Groups mailing list: Homebrew PCBs

Hi,

In my PCB adventures, I finally got a good transfer. I should have
followed my own rule: "Follow the manufacturer's directions until you
really know what you're doing, and probably after that, too." I
deviated, though. To help someone in a similar level of novicehood, I
detail what didn't work. I then have a question or two.

First, I used Pulsar Toner Transfer Paper, printed on my HP P1005. I ran
it through the GBC H-64 laminator twice, per Pulsar's recommendation. In
the water bath to lift off the TTP paper, the traces floated away, too.
I was told here that I didn't use enough laminator passes. All
subsequent trials used 8-10 passes. This trial went off to the Acetone
bath. (About the only thing that worked perfectly for me.)

Next, still with TTP, I followed a recommendation here to just place the
Green TRF foil on the board and smooth it out rather than folding over
the end of the board. That was a disaster! The Green TRF foil wrapped
itself around the top roller on the very first pass. Don't try this at
home. kids! Oh, well. It's not the first time I've had to diassemble new
equipment to fix it. Back to the acetone bath.

Then I had the hair-brained idea of using HP Presentation Paper instead
of Pulsar TTP. Maybe others succeeded with it, but I wound up with a
white film on top of the toner which wouldn't come off with rubbing or
water. Apparently, some of the paper fibers stuck to the toner image.
Acetone bath again! First question: I now have all this surplus HP
Presentation Paper. Will it work as good, light photo or brochure paper
on an inkjet printer? Are there any other uses for the HP paper? (I
don't have a color laser.)

Finally, I used Pulsar TTP with Green TRF, following Pulsar's directions
except for 8-10 passes through the laminator plus two passes for the
Green TRF. It worked! There are a couple spots that the Green TRF
missed; I'll try a Sharpie on them before etching.

I intend to try Pulsar's recommended "Direct Etch" method for etching.
Basically, it entails putting Ferric Chloride on a sponge and rubbing
off the copper as if cleaning a tabletop. No etching tank!

Questions to hopefully avoid more errors: Has anyone tried the Direct
Etch method? Does it work? Any hints? This, my first board, has no
ground plane and will need a lot of copper removed. Any hints on that?
The second board I have in mind does have a ground plane, leading to
minimal copper removal. Can anyone comment on which board style (minimum
copper or maximum copper) is likely to give better results? Any
difference in technique?

Thanks,

Jim