Hi Lee
I dont see you as rude.
I just know so little I wasn't sure how to start looking. No problem though, you have given me a good head start and some great
ideas, tnx for the reply.
Bob AD5VJ
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lee
> Sent: Saturday, October 03, 2009 9:28 AM
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Laser Printer
>
> Bob AD5VJ,
>
> Not to be rude, but its hard to imagine that a person that is
> too lazy to use google or do even a little searching through
> the archives of this or similar groups will be successful.
>
> Look in the files (and on google) there are numerous step by
> step writeups for laser toner-transfer based pcbs - I've had
> the best luck printing onto Staples Photo Glossy paper and
> also onto used(ripped out) magazine pages. The real
> challenge is that there are very few single sided designs out
> there so you'll either have to design your own using Eagle or
> some other eda tool none of which are particularly easy and
> or you'll need a drill press that allows you to drill the
> vias and in through-holes you'll need for through hole
> components. Also, If you have a cnc mill its also
> possible to mill the traces rather than printing them - do a
> search for pcb-gcode which is an open source plugin to eagle
> that produces gcode output that can be run on mach3 (or other
> cnc controller software) to produce traces. For any DIY
> process, getting the two sides to line up and drilling vias
> is sufficiently complicated and error prone to reduce the
> success rate, at least in my experience, to well below 50%.
>
> Realistically, imo, printing your own pcb's is more for fun
> and for understanding the process than any real money you'll
> save. There are inexpensive pcb manufacturing services for
> small runs, most notably batchpcb run by sparkfun, which are
> probably worth considering if you actually need a board that
> works. i've been messing with this for a couple of years and
> my success rate on boards is still probably less than 50% -
> by that I mean that the board comes out of the chemical bath
> and/or after routing and all traces are in the right place
> and work properly. In most cases you can manually repair a
> bad pcb by soldering wire in to replace a bad trace but again
> it takes time to find and manually repair these things.
>
> Hth.
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "AD5VJ Bob" <rtnmi@...> wrote:
> >
> > I am wanting information on using a Laser printer process
> for making
> > homebrew pcb's. I have a Dell 1700 laser printer and
> understand that it will work well for printed circuit board
> prints for board etching.
> >
> > But what type and weight paper do I use, ect?
> >
> > Can anyone point me to a good process description on the
> web that tells step by step how to use this method?
> >
> > I am also wondering with all the different choices out
> there, how do you know how thick the layer of copper should
> be on the board.
> > I am finding .060 and .090, but not sure what to choose.
> >
> > I think I may purchase a Radio Shack kit for etching the
> board. It is
> > Radio Shack cat no. 276-1576, is there anything bad about
> that choice?
> >
> > I really dont have a lot of money to spend on mistakes, I
> need something that works first time out of the chute.
> >
> > Bob AD5VJ
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links,
> Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>