Stefan,
This is how I make the boards.
The best solution I have ever used is one part
muriatic acid(27% the kind used to clean bricks)
and two parts hydrogen peroxide ( 3 % , the
kind you can get at Walmart or drug stores).
I only use it once I want it to etch fast.
This will etch in 5 - 6 minutes and does not need heat.
You mix only enough to cover the board in a small plastic tray.
Rock it back and to untill etched.
The printer you use is very important(at least the toner is).
A brother printer will not work.
I use an HP P1505 and it works the best I have seen.
I think HP printer is part of why I get good resolution.
I clean the board very good with BAR KEEPERS FRIEND
that you can get at Walmart. The cleaner the board
the better. Do not get finger prints(oil from fingers)on
the board. You might want to use latex gloves starting
at this point. After you scrub the board good with
BAR KEEPERS FRIEND wash it good with soap
and cold water. Now take some 91% alcohol and
wipe the board clean. Wipe until there is no residue
left on the wipe cloth. Now put the board in an oven that
is preheated to 350 degrees and let it stay for
3 minutes.
Take the board out of the oven and put the toner paper
on the board. Be careful at this point and lay the paper
down easy because it will stick to the hot board.
Apply very light pressure (almost no pressure) as you
move the iron all over the board. Iron for one minute.
Now put the board in water and let it soak for about 20
minutes the paper will float off the board with very little help.
(I print the circuit on some Laser Jet color paper that
I bought at Sams. It is made by a company named
Royal Brights, 108 Main Street, Norwalk, CT 06851
phone 1-800-526-4280. It is Glossy Ink Jet Paper 200
sheets per box, this is all I can find on the box. You could
call them and find out where to get it) THIS IS THE ONLY
PAPER I HAVE SEEN THAT FLOATS OFF THE BOARD
WHEN SOAKED.
Now after the paper is off put the board back in the hot oven
for about 3 minutes. It is now ready to etch.
This works very good for going under smd but is harder to do
for long runs.
Derward Myrick KD5WWI
----- Original Message -----
From: Stefan Trethan
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 11:54 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Surface Mount
Well you seem to be the only one able to make 1 to 3 mil lines with TT.
Please describe what printer you use, what etchant, and what
precedure. I'm sure most people here are interested to hear about your
method.
Personally 6.66mil is the limit of what i am comfortable with. Much
thinner and i don't get continuity because of under-etching.
ST
On Mon, Feb 23, 2009 at 5:29 PM, Derward Myrick <wdmyrick@...> wrote:
> PHIL,
>
> I make my regular run up to the smd and then I go with a 1 to 3 mil
> line through the smd and then go back to the regular trace.
> This will eliminate nost jumpers.
>
> Derward myerick KD5WWI
>
>
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