Hi James,
Thank you for your reply, the reason I was interested in this printer
is obviously the price. Here in the UK it is £42.72 and comes with a
1000 prints cartridge. A 3000 prints cartridge costs £55.64 which is
still ok!
I will be using it for PCB's and the occasional letter/document so I
am sure the ink will last me for quite a while.
Since you've had good results with it then no reason why I shouldn't
give it a try.
Thanks,
Elia
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "James Bishop" <bishopaj@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Elia,
>
> I bought the ML-2010 printer and have been having good results so
far. I'm
> very happy with it considering the price - it costs about $70 in
australia.
> Its the only printer I've used for toner transfer so I can't
compare it to
> others.
>
> The main thing is to get the right paper - the best thing i have
found so
> far is some advertising brocures from a local computer store. They
are quite
> thin, and glossy (but not super glossy). They soak off the board
easily. I
> need to perfect my technique, i've had some variable results like
pitted
> traces, or sometimes smeared traces. And sometimes it works out
perfectly. I
> suspect that this is to do with pressure and/or temperature.
Currently my
> method is this:
> 1. I put the pcb on an old book, and lay the printout on top of it,
and lay
> baking paper on top of that
> 2. I sit an iron at full temperature on top of this and leave it
for a few
> minutes, not pressing, until the board is nice and hot
> 3. I then remove the iron and carefully roll a rolling pin over it
in
> several directions to get it evenly stuck onto the board. Be
careful not to
> smear
> 4. At this point i just drop the board into cold water, wait a
minute for
> the paper to soften up a bit, and then start rubbing the paper with
my
> fingers to remove it from the board. The toner is usually pretty
well stuck,
> if you find that the toner comes off then you probably need more
heat or
> pressure.
> 5. Check the results, make sure you get rid of any remaining paper
fibers.
> If it looks smudged or pitted, try again.
>
> With this method i've done some .5mm pitch tqfps.
>
> I havent run out of toner yet, but i've probably only printed about
20 pages
> - i only use it for pcbs! If you're going to actually print
documents, then
> you might want to check the cost of the toner (probably more than
the
> printer). Also i dont recommend trying transparencies, i put one in
the
> other day which is supposedly laser-printable and it got totally
melted and
> wrapped around the fuser, and was quite difficult to extract.
Fortunately
> the printer seems to have survived. I read on this group that the
toner in
> these printers has a higher melting point than others, the warning
sticker
> on the fuser says 180 degrees c.
>
> Good luck...
>
> James.
>
> On Mon, May 19, 2008 at 10:20 PM, eliamady <eliamady123@...> wrote:
>
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I am considering buying a laser printer for home that I can use
for PCB
> > printing as well using toner transfer method. The printer I have
in
> > mind is Samsung ML2010. Has anyone used it for PCB's? Is it
recommended
> > for that?
> >
> > Thank you for your help
> >
> > Elia
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>