This (for me) forms an alternative for stencils supposed to last long,
cause those I do are a bit difficult (not impossible though) to clean
and as such I most often use them only once. For most of my cases
though, the aluminium foil / dryfilm resist method is the way to go
(again for me) due to the almost non existing costs and availablilty of
the material (could no longer do without dryfilm resist anyways) and the
fact that with the prototypes I do there are almost all times changes
needed anyways.
Thanks for sharing this, I was not aware of the renaelectronics product
bevore.
Markus
pork_u_pine2000 schrieb:
>
> Just to report:
>
> Someone mentioned the material advertised at:
>
> http://renaelectronics.com/product_stencil.htm
> <http://renaelectronics.com/product_stencil.htm>
>
> for use making stencils. I bought some and can report that it works
> well, much better than I had expected. The price seems a little high,
> but not compared to $180 for a steel stencil. At $10 (3 sheets in a
> $30/pack) it makes good sense for small-scale users.
>
> I blew the first attempt (my mother claims that I have a congenital
> defect inherited from my father that prevents me from following
> directions, my wife just says that I am an idiot). I probably mixed
> the developer too strong.
>
> But the second try was almost perfect. I made a print on transparency
> film of the PDF file they provide of shaft encoders, and four of the
> six came out perfect, two were slightly over-bitten (sp?) & lost some
> interrupter partitions at the periphery. All cut free of the primary
> sheet cleanly.
>
> I have never used FeCl2 on Steel before, & had no idea it could be
> chemically machined with such fine detail under simple conditions.
>
> There are a few details that were unclear to me on Rena's website.
> This is what I did:
>
> I just sandwiched the printout against the sensitized material with a
> (sort of) clean piece of Plexiglas 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) thick and
> exposed it at 7 inches (180 cm) from a two bulb 24 inch florescent
> 'shop-light' fixture with two 20 W bulbs (one a grow light 'broad
> spectrum', one a standard kitchen & bath - just what I had) for 10 to
> 15 minutes.
>
> I am suspicious that 15 min was too long, and 10 was too short.
> Systematic (that will be the day) testing would probably perfect the
> process.
>
> Then it is just develop & etch. I don't know if the development needs
> to be done in the dark or not. I did for the first couple of minutes.
>
> Just don't forget to take the protective plastic layer off - it just
> doesn't work that way.
>
> -- Dave
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, Markus Zingg <homebrew-pcb@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi group
> >
> ...
> >
> > I hope this helps others. Enjoy!
> >
> > Markus
> >
>
>