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Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Homebrew through plating station

From: Markus Zingg <m.zingg@...>
Date: 2003-06-01

Hi Stefan

>thanks for all the information.
>
>i wantet to get that steinel gun with the display some time ago.
>but the didn't have it.. they only had the newer model, it has only 4 or 5
>led to indicate the temperature.

That's strange. You really should try to find a better store then :-)

>i may try it somewhere else next time...
>
>thanks again for all the information about plastic welding. i didn't see
>this welding nozzle at the shop where i looked for the gun. maybe it would too
>work with the normal straight nozzle?
>or maybe i can make it of copper sheeting?
>
>a photo of the nozzle would be very nice but isn't urgent at all... maybe
>when you photograph your results?
>
>also please tell me the type number of your hot air gun, steinel has 4 digit
>numbers i think, like 2020...

Steinel is havine a homepage. You find the product along with the
accesories very easy

go to www.steinel.de

There chose english as the language if you prefer (click on the
british flag). For you Stefan, german is fine I figure :)

Anyways, on the english page, click on "Producs for DIYers" (whatever
that means) ("Produkte für Heimwerker" in german), then click on "Hot
air guns" ("Heissluft gebläse" in german) I use the "H2305LCD" under
acessories I use the "Reduction nozzle 9mm" (Reduzierdüse 9mm in
german) to bend the plastics. To welder I use the reduction nozzle
along with the "weldig nozzle" (Schweisschuh in german). I don't think
that it's worth it to try to build those on your own. I don't remember
the priczes anymore, but well, while the gun is their top end
(homeworker) model. I still do have in mind that the prize was
reasonable. IMHO it's important to have a REGULATED gun. As soon as
you start to work with plastics, you quickly will see that you always
miss a hand or two more :-) That said, I really would not also have to
deal with always finding the right temperature too. It's quite
comfortable to set it to the temperature requested, wait for it to get
there (quick, usually 20 sconds or such) and then start to work.

As mentioned in the other thread, the nozzels also come in handy if
you should unsolder parts with lot's of pins (no matter wether they
are SMD or through hole). While we are at it. Doing so most often
means that you must decide wether the PCB or the parts shall survive.
That's now however completely off topic :)

Markus