1- I use a Dry Iron! The bottom is FLAT with no holes or dimples! Price $10
2- I use Staples Photo basic inkjet paper.
3- I print the image on the paper! Then I bring up Notepad and print a Period away from my pattern
This will make the fuser come on. Then it goes thru for the second time.
When you iron this on the toner layer will separate from the base paper when soaked in water.
The remainer of the paper will easily rub off with a toothbrush. I get beautyful results.
I try to keep the pattern at least .2 inches from the edge.As I find this is a problem area for transfer
as the board cool off to fast on the edges.
4- I use a one inch diameter wooden dowel under the board when ironing(it puts maxamum pressure on the pattern)
Its like a rolly-polly so you need your wifes oven mitt to handle it when ironing
results very good down to .007 inch(the narroest iv'e tried..
73
Mike
----- Original Message ----
From: eballiri <
eballiri@...>
To:
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.comSent: Friday, October 19, 2007 4:52:44 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: TT Technique??
I've made several PCBs with TT and must say that the last ones are
getting really good. The most important tips I've been following are
this:
DO's
1.- clean the copper well before transfering, I use thin metal wool.
2.- try to use a SMALL Iron, like one used for neckties or for
travelling, since it'll be easier to handle and will have a less
bended heat-surface due to temperature.
3.- Put the paper on the PCB and put the iron over it a few seconds
to get a good working temperature
4.- Use the iron's EDGE (NOT it's surface) to iron the whole thing,
from time to time use the whole iron's surface to heat the PCB a bit
and continue to use the edge, this warrants that every part of the
drawing you are trying to transfer gets a correct amount of pressure,
and the correct amount of heat.
5.- Either put the PCB in water for some minutes and delicately get
the paper out with your fingers or a toothbrush OR instead of using
water pour some eatable oil over the paper, spread it well, wait some
time for the paper to be really wet and try to rip the paper in one
piece... I prefer the water-method
DONT's
1.- DON'T just put the iron on top of the paper and leave it there
thinking it's a matter of time for the transfer to be completed, in
fact a few seconds will be enough if you have the right temperature
and pressure and you will avoid overheating and possibly damagind the
PCB.
2.- DON'T use the whole surface of the iron to make the transfer,
because since it is HOT it is also deformed and hence not completely
straight. This is the cause that makes you get some parts of the
drawing transfered and some not, because some parts just don't get
pressure! REMEMBER: use the EDGES to iron the drawing!!!!
3.- DON'T scorch the paper, it has nothing to do with getting the
transfer well, it only gets it all dirty!
4.- DON'T overheat the PCB, since it will damage the bond between
the copper surface and the PCB sustrate, there's NO NEED to put the
iron several minutes over the PCB and get it cooked!!. Transfer
doesn't work that way!!!
5.- When ironing with the iron edges DON'T press it to much, since
excesive pressure will spread the toner making difuse lines, just
make 3 or four conscious passes pressing normally and you'll get the
whole design transfered.
The best I've gotten so far using this tips is 10 mils lines and a
good component density. Hope it is helpful!
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