Tell the safety guy to get you some lead free that works like lead and
you be glad to use it as soon at he personally demonstrates to you on it
works as well on the prototypes you make. Looking back over your posts
you aren't doing production or even complete broads for the most part.
Everyone's panties are in a wad over the toys from China with lead paint
and I have yet to see how much lead is in the paint.
When the press gets the bit in their teeth they can really wreck things.
Look at the mad cow deal in the UK. Mad cow disease affected 2% or 3% of
the cattle in the UK and less than 200 people. It has cost the world
billions if not trillions of dollars and the problem is all but gone
when the found that it was caused by feeding cattle to cattle and
switched to vegetable protein and quit putting old cattle in food for a
while. It takes a few years to dispersal but its a non problem now to
all but the press and those that make a living off it. Yet when you look
close enough all animals have a very very rare disease similar to it
that pops up in 1 in a 1,000,000 animals or people and every time they
find one it cost several million dollars.
Lead is more serious than Mad Cow disease. But for prototyping and
rework it poses no treat to anyone but the person doing it if they don't
follow basic safety rules.
Gordon
pgdion1 wrote:
>
> I would have thought the multi-core was better too, I was surprised by
> the results I had. You have my sympathy on the Lead-Free. I don't know
> about anyone else, but me and Lead-Free haven't gotten along to well
> so far. Outside of plumbing (the no lead plumbing solder seems to
> still sweat pipes just fine) I haven't liked the lead-free results. It
> just doesn't seem to reflow like the tin-lead does. Takes a lot more
> heat which crusties up the tip faster and also is hard on some of my
> boards. Sure not like the Kester '44'. Maybe I need to switch to
> using a torch for the pcb's too ;-)
> - phil
> >
> > Thanks for the recommendation, i should've asked before buying.
> > I've used it now for a few days, and it's OK for most stuff. Doesn't
> > leave much visible flux residue so that's something good, i suppose.
> >
> > Maybe if i leave the bad solder out on the bench it'll grow legs,
> worth a try.
> > (That'll teach them :-) )
> >
> > But i'm afraid i might not get to buy the Kester 63/37, they are
> > pestering us about leadfree....
> >
> > ST
> >
> > On 8/21/07, pgdion1 <pgdion1@...> wrote:
> > > I had the same experience. We have some of the 5 core / multi-core
> > > stuff at work and it's performance is poor. Either not enough flux or
> > > the flux isn't as good, not sure which. I won't use it anymore at all.
> > > I like the Kester 63/37 RA '44' solders. They're also available in
> > > 60/40 but I prefer 63/37. Good wetting, nice flow with clean bright
> > > joints, and the tips of the iron stay in much better shape.
> > >
> > > I also keep some Kester paste flux on hand as well. It's great for
> > > tinning boards. I smear a thin layer over the board with my finger and
> > > then drag a long tip sideways (so the side of the tip contacts the
> > > board) over the board, I can tin a whole board in a few seconds. It's
> > > getting harder to find but it's Kester Rosin Paste Flux SP-44. Handy
> > > to have on hand when you just want a little dap someplace and not the
> > > puddle from the liquid stuff. Just don't leave it out on the bench as
> > > everyone thinks it's tip cleaner for some reason :-|
> > >
> > > Phil
> >
>
>