Archive of the former Yahoo!Groups mailing list: Homebrew PCBs

----- Original Message -----
From: "Adi Linden" <adiy@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 3:12 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner transfer works...


> Epson Photo paper works great for me! Made my first board 3 weeks ago and
> it turned out marvelous. Ran the Epson Photo paper through a Dell 1710
> printer. Ironed it on using an old iron at its highest setting. Placed
> about 30 seconds of body weight on it followed by some pressing and
> rubbing to make sure all the edges received enough preassure, too. The
> paper floated away on its own after just a few seconds in warm water.
> Absolutely no toner residue on the paper, nor any toner floating in the
> water. Rubbed the board with my thumb to remove some slimy residue. Used
> Ammonium Persulfate for etching, what a drag. Took nearly 45 minutes to
> etch a tiny board (1-1/4" x 2-1/4"). But even the fine print etched fine.
> No pinholes anywhere.

You probably didn't heat it. Warm ferric chloride takes about 10 minutes to
etch a board with continuous agitation.

>
> About 8 years ago I tried making a board again. Bought a presensitized
> board from Active Electronics. Things didn't work out. I strongly suspect
> the board was too old. I learned a long time ago that a presensitized
> board stored at room temperature for a long time looses its photo
> sensitive characteristics. Since making baords was a rare occurance I
> dropped the photo positive method in favour of toner transfer. I produced
> a board, nothing to brag about, lots of pin holes, etc. The board worked
> but I wasn't impressed. Been using punched proyect board ever since.
> Tedious work that results in a single board rather then a 'template' that
> can be used over and over...

The resist on pre-sensitised boards goes off after about six months or so,
I've found.

Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM
Suzuki SV1000S motorcycle
leon.heller@...
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller