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Subject: Re: RE : [Homebrew_PCBs] Super bubbler - got it working now!

From: David Cureton <yahoo@...>
Date: 2006-07-15

An I guess a lot of that mist can be mitigated by having something
floating on the surface of the etchant so as the tiny bubbles collect
and form larger bubbles prior to breaking the surface. Most of the mist
is generated by the surface tention of the liquid breaking at the
bubble pops causing tiny droplets of liquid. Therefore if the bubbles
are collect into larger bubbles before breaking the surface then there
is less 'surface-tention breaking events' thus less mist.

Cheers,
David




Robert Hedan wrote:

>>-----Message d'origine-----
>>De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>>[mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De la part de lcdpublishing
>>Envoyé : juillet 12 2006 17:49
>>À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>>Objet : [Homebrew_PCBs] Super bubbler - got it working now!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>... So, like all "real men" do, I opted for more power! MUCH MORE POWER!
>...
>
>
>>Chris
>>
>>
>
>
>You've come to the same conclusion I did several months ago, the fishtank
>pump just doesn't cut it. I connected my shop air compressor to a drilled
>PVC tube I had running down the bottom of the etching tank. I kept on
>adding rows of holes until I got the desired 'coverage'. I used a ball
>valve with a nice red handle to control the air flow.
>
>Like you, I knew that one accidental tap on that handle and I'd have a
>disaster on my hands. Don't forget, that bubbling action at the surface
>creates a very fine ferric chloride mist. Just 'cause you don't see it
>doesn't mean it's not there, and I didn't have adequate ventilation for a
>permanent installation.
>
>I sure did get awesome bubbling action going though, like boiling water, but
>not as crazy. One day when I'm going to have a decent shop space, I will
>make another etching tank. But for the time being, all my equipment fits in
>a large plastic bin, way up high on the top shelf (with the acid stored on
>the bottom shelf of a cabinet out of harms way).
>
>Now add a section of metal pipe after the air compressor, place a heat
>source alongside that pipe and you've added temperature control to the
>etching.
>
>Robert
>:)
>
>
>
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
>If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2006 19:02:15 -0400
>Subject: RE : [Homebrew_PCBs] Super bubbler - got it working now!
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>>-----Message d'origine-----
>>De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>>[mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De la part de lcdpublishing
>>Envoyé : juillet 12 2006 17:49
>>À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>>Objet : [Homebrew_PCBs] Super bubbler - got it working now!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>... So, like all "real men" do, I opted for more power! MUCH MORE POWER!
>...
>
>
>>Chris
>>
>>
>
>
>You've come to the same conclusion I did several months ago, the fishtank
>pump just doesn't cut it. I connected my shop air compressor to a drilled
>PVC tube I had running down the bottom of the etching tank. I kept on
>adding rows of holes until I got the desired 'coverage'. I used a ball
>valve with a nice red handle to control the air flow.
>
>Like you, I knew that one accidental tap on that handle and I'd have a
>disaster on my hands. Don't forget, that bubbling action at the surface
>creates a very fine ferric chloride mist. Just 'cause you don't see it
>doesn't mean it's not there, and I didn't have adequate ventilation for a
>permanent installation.
>
>I sure did get awesome bubbling action going though, like boiling water, but
>not as crazy. One day when I'm going to have a decent shop space, I will
>make another etching tank. But for the time being, all my equipment fits in
>a large plastic bin, way up high on the top shelf (with the acid stored on
>the bottom
>
>
> -0-0-0-
>
>