Archive of the former Yahoo!Groups mailing list: Homebrew PCBs

previous by date index next by date
previous in topic topic list next in topic

Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: using Laser Iron-on with ljIII

From: Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...>
Date: 2003-04-18

thanks for the nice advice but photofab is not so nice as it seems.

i started with this process and it worked most time but the problem simply was to get the films.
in my printer no ohp tansparency works at all..

and be sure, i won't buy a starter kit, no thanks...
i already have all parts needed to make the pcbs with this method but i simply don't want do make it any
longer.


additionally just in the moment all double sided photo coated pcb was used up i got from ebay a real
hell lot of plain copper clad, nearly new, no corrosion etc but without coating for a few bucks.. this
would be enough for lifetime useage at the current rate...
and i also don't want to coat it with spray on photoresist.


so you see i really want to replace the photo process and either toner iron on or plotting directly to
pcb WILL work, i know that.

regards
st

18.04.2003 07:55:11, "glenhat" <hathaway@...> wrote:

>> of the method with laser printing to paper /
>> transparency and ironing it to the board.
>> I have tried this some time ago when i read
>> first of it and it gave very poor result.
>
>Dude, go with the photofab method. It's so good. I'm a newbie to
>making pcb's. Tinkered with iron-on for a while and had nothing but
>trouble.
>
>I was very leery about the photofab process. I read so many messages
>here that made it sound so difficult and complex. I finally broke
>down and bought the stuff to do photofab (not that expensive).
>
>Photofab is GREAT!!! It's not difficult at all and the boards come
>out perfect. My first board is a total success.
>
>If you want a simple starter kit, look at http://www.mgchemicals.com
>in their Products/Prototyping area. You need some transparencies
>that will work with your printer, a 416K Photofab Kit and a 416X
>Exposure Kit. Here in Canada, that all cost me around $120ish (maybe
>$85 US).
>
>If you want to get more serious, also get a 416ES or 416E Etching
>Kit. I just do mine in a plastic dish - not so fancy, but works fine.
>
>Oh ya, the 416K kit only comes with single-side board, so you'll
>most likely want to buy some double-side as well.
>
>MG has a distributor list on their site, so you can find a dealer
>near you that carries these products. Geesh, I sound like an ad for
>MG Chemicals, but I'm just a very satisfied customer. I'm sure other
>companies have similar kits too.
>
>
>
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>