Hi Paul,
With transparencies, you should use a thin cloth or double/quadruple
layer of paper towel. I set the temp on my iron to somewhere around
wool or cotton. I've used linen, but that's too hot and discolors the
paper towel I use to protect the transparency.
Direct contact between the iron and transparency will make the
transparency melt.
You want to get sufficient toner melting to get good transfer and
minimal pitting, but not enough to cause enough smearing to cause
shorts.
I've been using HP inkjet transparencies (non Premium version) and hav
been getting good results. I have some pitting, particularly in
copper fills. The fill areas are easily touched up with a marker - I
use fine point black Sharpie.
I just tried some Compusa inkjet transparencies. They work, but not
as well as HP. They're about 2/3 of the price of HP, so I'd like to
try tweaking my ironing.
There is a film that should be removed before etching, but mild
scrubbing with a little water and liquid hand soap and a toothbrush
does it for me.
Regards,
Dennis
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "protonceksleeperman"
<protoncek@...> wrote:
> So, i guess my next try is transparency. But, here i need some info,
> please. Like what do you do toi prevent transparency to crook
> (distort) from heat? Maybe by applying iron on parts and not on
whole
> board? how long should all last? And would transparency work in
> laminator?
>
> Any of suggestions would be very welcome.
>
> Thanks! Paul, Slovenia
>