Hello Dennis,
Well, I tried many a' times...but I seem to not get all of the toner
off of the transparency. I went 10 seconds, then 30 seconds, then 1
minutes, then 2 minutes, then 5 minutes, and even 10 minutes. But the
toner seems to break away in parts from the transparency.
I am using laser color transparencies...not black and white. Also it's
not inkject transparency.
Could that be the culprit?
Patrick
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dl5012" <dl5012@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Patrick,
>
> I use Eagle Lite. That version will do small double sided boards
> free. Download from http://www.eaglesoft.de/freeware
>
> Prep your boards the normal way
>
> Put board on a block of wood covered with a doubled paper towel
>
> Set iron to cotton/wool setting with no steam (you need to
> experiment with correct temp.
>
> Place board on board, align artwork (trimmed to slightly larger than
> board), cover with another doubled paper towel (be careful not to
> let transparency slip)
>
> Apply iron for 20-30 seconds. Gently lift from one corner making
> sure to hold down transparency while lifting paper towel.
> Transparency will usually stick but will stop after transparency
> gets it's fill of paper fibers.
>
> Iron and check progress every 30 seconds or so to see when toner is
> melting. You need to get it all melted, but not so much that it
> smears badly. Watch for traces that are starting to spread and
> don't let pad holes close completely.
>
> When you think things are melted well enough, remove the board from
> the block of wood and set it aside to cool.
>
> Start your next transfer if you have more.
>
> When the first board has cooled to the touch, but is still warm,
> peel the trasparency from the board; starting at one corner. If
> little or no toner stays on the transparency, you're done.
>
> If a lot of toner stays on the transparency, stop peeling as soon as
> you notice that. Iron more and try again.
>
> Once the transparency has been removed, you may notice some residue
> from the transparency. Clean this off with soap, water, and a
> toothbrush. You don't need to do this under running water. Wet the
> board, apply some soap (I use liquid hand soap), scrub the board
> thoroughly (shouldn't have any problems with toner being removed),
> rinse board, blot dry and store in plastic bag until ready to etch.
>
> That's it.
>
> I cut and paste my design and array (panelize) it so it fills as
> much of the transparency as possible. I leave enough empty space
> for a 1" boarder around the perimeter and 0.3 inches or so between
> patterns. Keep your fingers off the toner side and store them where
> they won't collect dust.
>
> Make sure there's no dust on the board or transparency when you
> start transfering.
>
> Regards,
> Dennis
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "braincambre500"
> <braincambre500@> wrote:
> >
> > Hello Sir Dennis,
> >
> > Yes, I just got back from Office Depot and have in hand...
> >
> > an HP Laserjet 1020 printer
> >
> > +
> >
> > 50 pack of laserjet transparencies
> >
> > I am looking forward for tonight, as I will try my hand and
> > iron...making my first toner transfer.
> >
> > Do give me some points, if you would, as I am presently making my
> PCB
> > design in my "Paint' Program in Windows 98. Is there a better
> program
> > to use?
> >
> > I always look forward to your great advice, as you have walked down
> > the road, that I am about to embark!
> >
> > ...your friend, Patrick
> >
>