Archive of the former Yahoo!Groups mailing list: Homebrew PCBs

----- Original Message -----
From: "alan00463" <alan00463@...>

> 4. Reverse (L-R) component legend layer image. Have
> printer print it onto transfer paper using white toner on
> a color laser printer.

Or, print black toner on normal transfer paper. In step 14, transfer the
black legend toner to the component side. Step 14a, laminate with Pulsar's
white TRF if you want a white legend instead of black. Black works just fine
for one sided boards. I like it even better than white.

> 5. Press black toner onto Cu board using iron. Let dry.

(Let dry? Board and toner should be dry at the start and at the finish.)

A hot clothes iron is usable, but a laminator is much more consistent.
(Roadmap for brain-dead success.)

> 6. Inspect black toner for breaks; correct as necessary
> w/ Sharpie pen.

It helps me to believe line breaks are not random. The major culprits are
rough board edges, oily fingerprints, dust and lint, and inconsistent
heat/pressure. OTOH, they might just be random and your time is better spent
on minor touch-ups.

> 8. Strip toner from board using acetone & toothbrush.
>
> 9. Scrub board. Wash board w/ distilled water. Let dry.

Gum-Out dissolves toner without heavy scrubbing. Regardless, follow up with
denatured alcohol and lint free cloth. I would skip the distilled water
rinse.

> 13. Make sure component leads fit holes. Redrill as needed.

If possible, fit the part to the board if needed, rather than monkey with
the board and traces. Be sure to correct the part library in your software.
(Speaking of which, run a careful design check after layout and before
printing. Best to make that step 0.0.)