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Vintage Synth Repair

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Arp Odyssey and Solus

Arp Odyssey and Solus

2010-08-12 by ML

Hi folks

I'm new to the board. Thanks for having me :) I've been collecting and restoring synths since about '90. I'm still pretty new to the theory behind electronics but I can definitely make my way around an instrument and schematics. I had a few questions about the Arp Solus and Odyssey.

Is the Solus essentially a trimmed back version of the Odyssey? I'm curious about how interchangeable some of the parts are such as the sliders. I'm looking to replace some on a Solus but it looks like the part numbers aren't the same. I don't have an Odyssey in front of me to compare.

Also - the Solus I have seems to drift out of tune when it gets really gets warm. I can tell that it needs to be calibrated but I wonder if replacing some caps would be necessary too. I'm not sure if it would affect the sound so if any of you have insight into that it would be great too.

Thanks!

Re: [vintagesynthrepair] Arp Odyssey and Solus

2010-08-12 by Vco3

the solus sliders are different than the odyssey's.. I think the quadra uses the same sliders as the solus.. cya analog-jeff
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-----Original Message-----
From: ML <f115@...>
To: vintagesynthrepair@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, Aug 12, 2010 12:50 pm
Subject: [vintagesynthrepair] Arp Odyssey and Solus


  
    
                  
Hi folks

I'm new to the board. Thanks for having me :) I've been collecting and restoring synths since about '90. I'm still pretty new to the theory behind electronics but I can definitely make my way around an instrument and schematics. I had a few questions about the Arp Solus and Odyssey.

Is the Solus essentially a trimmed back version of the Odyssey? I'm curious about how interchangeable some of the parts are such as the sliders. I'm looking to replace some on a Solus but it looks like the part numbers aren't the same. I don't have an Odyssey in front of me to compare.

Also - the Solus I have seems to drift out of tune when it gets really gets warm. I can tell that it needs to be calibrated but I wonder if replacing some caps would be necessary too. I'm not sure if it would affect the sound so if any of you have insight into that it would be great too.

Thanks!

Re: Arp Odyssey and Solus

2010-08-12 by Alexis V. Rogers

Yeah, the Solus sliders are different. The ARP Axxe was originally intended to be a trimmed down, single VCO version of the Odyssey, with the Solus coming later as a bridge between the two.

Have you given the sliders a good cleaning and relube? Also, replacing electrolytic (and tantalum) capacitors in vintage synths is always a good idea--especially in the power supply.

I recommend Kevin Lightner's method of using water and Simple Green to clean the sliders. On the Solus, however, make sure you remove the power transformer from the PCB before giving it a bath. The sliders on the Solus seem easier to clean than those on other ARPs. After everything is dry, I'd relube the sliders with a non-greasy silicone lubricant, apply fresh heatsink grease to the voltage regulators, replace all the electrolytic caps, and go from there.

Cheers,
Alex



--- In vintagesynthrepair@yahoogroups.com, Vco3 <vco3@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> the solus sliders are different than the odyssey's.. I think the quadra uses the same sliders as the solus.. cya analog-jeff
>  
> 
>  
> 
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ML <f115@...>
> To: vintagesynthrepair@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thu, Aug 12, 2010 12:50 pm
> Subject: [vintagesynthrepair] Arp Odyssey and Solus
> 
> 
>   
>     
>                   
> Hi folks
> 
> I'm new to the board. Thanks for having me :) I've been collecting and restoring synths since about '90. I'm still pretty new to the theory behind electronics but I can definitely make my way around an instrument and schematics. I had a few questions about the Arp Solus and Odyssey.
> 
> Is the Solus essentially a trimmed back version of the Odyssey? I'm curious about how interchangeable some of the parts are such as the sliders. I'm looking to replace some on a Solus but it looks like the part numbers aren't the same. I don't have an Odyssey in front of me to compare.
> 
> Also - the Solus I have seems to drift out of tune when it gets really gets warm. I can tell that it needs to be calibrated but I wonder if replacing some caps would be necessary too. I'm not sure if it would affect the sound so if any of you have insight into that it would be great too.
> 
> Thanks!
>

Re: Arp Odyssey and Solus

2010-08-12 by ML

All good advice guys and thanks for clearing up the slider part issue. I had a feeling they weren't the same. 

The PCB is in pretty rough shape so I'm hesitant to bathe it but I can definitely clean it to a point. For the sliders I'll take one apart and see how it goes. Some of these are goners for sure. So the caps in the signal path won't really affect sound here? Really? I would think they would ins some way. I could see that in the PSU but everywhere?

Cheers and thanks for the quick reply!

Re: Arp Odyssey and Solus

2010-08-12 by Alexis V. Rogers

Just be careful disassembling those sliders. The plastic gets very brittle with age. If you come across some that cleaning will not do the job, you can sometimes bridge breaks in the resistive carbon track with silver conductive paint.

Capacitors capacitate. As they age and dry out, the values drift and they don't work as they should. Tantalums and electrolytics are the worst. These caps have an average lifespan of 18-20 years and are ticking time bombs by now. 

[Note: I am only talking about electrolytic and tantalum caps here. Ceramics last forever and Poly film caps last almost forever. I am seeing more leakage on Silver Mica caps lately though.]

A synth is not a hi-fi. What is important is that each component is doing its job reliably. If you hear a difference after recapping a vintage synth, it is either in your head or the old caps were no longer doing their job.

Cheers and good luck on your Solus,
Alex

--- In vintagesynthrepair@yahoogroups.com, "ML" <f115@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> All good advice guys and thanks for clearing up the slider part issue. I had a feeling they weren't the same. 
> 
> The PCB is in pretty rough shape so I'm hesitant to bathe it but I can definitely clean it to a point. For the sliders I'll take one apart and see how it goes. Some of these are goners for sure. So the caps in the signal path won't really affect sound here? Really? I would think they would ins some way. I could see that in the PSU but everywhere?
> 
> Cheers and thanks for the quick reply!

Re: Arp Odyssey and Solus

2010-08-23 by ML

Thanks for the info and advice. I'll go ahead wit the caps on the PSU and work my way down. It's just something I've always heard. These older caps bring something to the signal but it sounds like that's not quite right, is it?



--- In vintagesynthrepair@yahoogroups.com, "Alexis V. Rogers" <alexis.v.rogers@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> Just be careful disassembling those sliders. The plastic gets very brittle with age. If you come across some that cleaning will not do the job, you can sometimes bridge breaks in the resistive carbon track with silver conductive paint.
> 
> Capacitors capacitate. As they age and dry out, the values drift and they don't work as they should. Tantalums and electrolytics are the worst. These caps have an average lifespan of 18-20 years and are ticking time bombs by now. 
> 
> [Note: I am only talking about electrolytic and tantalum caps here. Ceramics last forever and Poly film caps last almost forever. I am seeing more leakage on Silver Mica caps lately though.]
> 
> A synth is not a hi-fi. What is important is that each component is doing its job reliably. If you hear a difference after recapping a vintage synth, it is either in your head or the old caps were no longer doing their job.
> 
> Cheers and good luck on your Solus,
> Alex
> 
> --- In vintagesynthrepair@yahoogroups.com, "ML" <f115@> wrote:
> >
> > All good advice guys and thanks for clearing up the slider part issue. I had a feeling they weren't the same. 
> > 
> > The PCB is in pretty rough shape so I'm hesitant to bathe it but I can definitely clean it to a point. For the sliders I'll take one apart and see how it goes. Some of these are goners for sure. So the caps in the signal path won't really affect sound here? Really? I would think they would ins some way. I could see that in the PSU but everywhere?
> > 
> > Cheers and thanks for the quick reply!
>

Re: Arp Odyssey and Solus

2010-09-15 by ML

Hi again ~

Well so far so good. I replaced the power supply caps and a handful of sliders and was able to minimize the drift in the VCOs. It's sounding pretty good in my opinion. A couple of new issues surfaced though. I'm hoping someone has encountered this before:

1. It seems that there is always a note being played. Perhaps another way to describe it is that the release just never really releases? I can play normally and everything will basically subside but you can hear a very faint continuation of a note carrying on. If I turn up release you can hear that remaining note loud and clear.

2. Very odd - but VCO2 tune works in reverse. I have the slider installed correctly but sliding it towards sharp sets it to go flat and vice versa. I picked up used sliders; on this slider one of the mounting pins is broken. These appear to be for ground too but I don't *think* this should cause that sort of behaviour.

3. Just an observation more than anything but when I was checking voltages on the test points it would affect the voltage and in turn slightly shift the sound. touching a component such as an IC would radically change the sound. It's as if a ground is lifted somewhere? If I bolt it all down nothing out of the ordinary really happens (aside from the above here).

Thanks again!

[CWSG] Desperate! Need Help and info please

2010-09-15 by Paul Cunningham

Hi -- I'm cross posting this from the CWSG group. If there's anyone  
on the list who can help Bill fix his Korg BX-3, would you send him  
an private email? Thanks! -paul
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> From: 	  bluestblues2002@...
> 	Subject: 	[CWSG] Desperate!  Need Help and info please
> 	Date: 	September 15, 2010 4:02:11 PM EDT
> 	To: 	  CloneWheel@yahoogroups.com
> 	Reply-To: 	  CloneWheel@yahoogroups.com
>
> Hi all,
>
> My vintage 1982 Korg BX-3 died. Something on the circuit board  
> controlling the upper manual smoked during a gig, and now the upper  
> manual doesn't work.
>
> The info for the circuit board is:
> KLM-244-B
> Korg Part Number: 34012804
>
> I can't afford the $3600+ to replace the organ, so this group is my  
> last hope. I don't want to retire from playing music. Any info or  
> tips on how to search for this part is greatly appreciated. Calling  
> Korg is useless. One service technician even denied that Korg made  
> this organ in 1982, and that it must have been made by another  
> manufacturer!
>
> Please, Obi-Wans of the clone wheel world...you're my last hope.
>
> Bill
>

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