Wow! I've been waiting for someone with an H1xx series to do this. I need to get into mine's upper end, I have a tab or two that are being a bit pesky. I'm looking forward to seeing your photos. Lloyd On Apr 7, 2008, at 7:21 PM, Bob wrote: > It has to be taken apart from the top and the front, actually. > The keys are screwed in from the back, but the key has to be slid > back to disengage it from the key comb. The black panel on the front > has to be removed to slide the key back. > What is your time frame for doing this? I was planning to repair a > couple keys on one of the H's in the shop this weekend...I planned to > photograph the process for my picture collection, if this would help > you. > > Bob > > - In vintagesynthrepair@yahoogroups.com, "fsimon100" <fsimon001@...> > wrote: > > > > Bob, > > Thanks. I'm certain I need to take it apart and fix it properly. > Your > > picures gave me great insite of the mechanics. Does it disassemble > > from the front or start at the top and work down? > > > > Also the very low volume I'm assuming is unrelated because I can > hold > > the preset keys down to hear the organ. As I said the finals are > > good. Where would you recommend I start scoping the audio signal. > > > > --- In vintagesynthrepair@yahoogroups.com, "Bob" <bobmannn@> wrote: > > > > > > The preset keys can have the same problem as any of the > keys...that > > is > > > that dirty contacts will prevent them from operating. I had the > > same > > > symptoms on my H when I first got it, and still do from time to > > time on > > > those keys that see little usage. Normal operation on mine > returns > > when > > > I hold the Cancel key down and tap the offending key rapidly 20 > or > > so > > > times to clean the contacts. Maybe you will get lucky and this > will > > > help...at least it is worth a try. > > > As far as the key not staying down, this is not too hard to > > > fix...however getting to the mechanism can be a challenge, > > especially > > > on the lower manual. > > > The mechanism is simple; there is a spring loaded bar that swings > > on an > > > arc under the preset keys. When a key is pressed, a > > flexible "finger" > > > under the key holds on to that rod. The Cancel key pushes that > rod > > away > > > from the finger, and releases the preset key. > > > When the preset key no longer stays down, the "finger" is > probably > > worn > > > or stuck with dried grease, and can be cleaned and/or bent > slightly > > to > > > restore it, assuming the finger is not broken. > > > I can send pictures of the mechanism if you would like. > > > In order to reach the mechanism, the keys obviously need to be > > removed. > > > If you have never done this, please let me know and I can walk > you > > > through it. Also, if you find broken parts during the process, > > please > > > let me know as I have a couple H's in pieces out in the shop and > > would > > > be glad to donate what I can. > > > Bob > > > > > > > > > --- In vintagesynthrepair@yahoogroups.com, "fsimon100" > <fsimon001@> > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > H-100 > > > > My preset keys won't stay engauged. How do you disassemble to > get > > > > underneath keys to fix. Also I have low volume if I hold them > > down > > > > manually. > > > > I know final tube outputs are good but not sure where the low > > signal > > > > is. Do I scope out from the tonewheel somewhere then at a pre- > > amp. > > > Like > > > > I said I injected a tone into the final tube amps and have > strong > > > final > > > > stage. > > > > > > > > > > > >
Message
Re: [vintagesynthrepair] Re: Hammond H100
2008-04-08 by Lloyd Parsons
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