On 3/1/2011 2:23 PM, Gary Brumm wrote:
>
> In California we call these \u201cPresto Logs\u201d and people who can\u2019t start a
> fire burn them in their fireplace\u2026.they will probably
>
> be outlawed soon like everything else here\u2026\u2026.
>
> *From:*newmellotrongroup@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:newmellotrongroup@yahoogroups.com] *On Behalf Of *lsf5275@aol.com
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 01, 2011 12:17 PM
> *To:* newmellotrongroup@yahoogroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [newmellotrongroup] Re: Freddy Fender Mellotron
>
> Modern plywood, as an alternative to natural wood, was invented in the
> 19th century, but by the end of the 1940s there was not enough lumber
> around to manufacture plywood affordably. Particleboard was intended
> to be a replacement. German inventor of particle board was Max
> Himmelheber <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Max_Himmelheber>. The first
> commercial piece was produced during World War II
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_War_II> at a factory in Bremen,
> Germany. It used waste material such as planer shavings, offcuts or
> sawdust, hammer-milled <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hammer_mill> into
> chips, and bound together with a phenolic resin
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phenolic_resin>. Hammer-milling involves
> smashing material into smaller and smaller pieces until they pass out
> through a screen. Most other early particleboard manufacturers used
> similar processes, though often with slightly different resins.
>
> It was found that better strength, appearance and resin economy could
> be achieved by using more uniform, manufactured chips. Manufacturers
> began processing solid birch, beech, alder, pine and spruce into
> consistent chips and flakes. These finer layers were then placed on
> the outsides of the board, with the central section composed of
> coarser, cheaper chips. This type of board is known as three-layer
> particleboard.
>
> More recently, graded-density particleboard has also evolved. It
> contains particles that gradually become smaller as they get closer to
> the surface
>
> In a message dated 3/1/2011 12:50:03 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> tron400@yahoo.com <mailto:tron400@yahoo.com> writes:
>
> I was thinking of plywood as solid wood, but of course, it's not.
> So, when did particle board make its debut?
>
> Bernie
>
> --- In newmellotrongroup@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:newmellotrongroup%40yahoogroups.com>, lsf5275@... wrote:
> >
> > I don't think they were ever made completely of solid wood. I
> know that
> > most of the Mellotrons I have seen had plywood lids and front and
> back panels,
> > but when I owned 1562, it had front and back panels made of phenolic.
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 3/1/2011 7:47:35 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> > tron400@... writes:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Frank,
> >
> > Based on the hoard of M400's you've restored, can you tell at
> what point
> > the cabinets were changed from solid wood to particle board?
> >
> > Bernie
> >
> > --- In _newmellotrongroup@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:_newmellotrongroup%40yahoogroups.com>_
> > (mailto:newmellotrongroup@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:newmellotrongroup%40yahoogroups.com>) , lsf5275@ wrote:
> > >
> > > Chris,
> > >
> > > Yeah, here are a few more photos. It all comes down to what it
> would
> > take
> > > to make it right. Besides, I want to build a cabinet and modify
> the Tron
> > a
> > > bit. It all comes down to its provenance. I won't literally
> trash the
> > > cabinet. I'll just store it away. If you look at the following
> photos,
> > and if you
> > > know anything about repairing particle board, you'll see how
> difficult
> > the
> > > repairs will be and that the cabinet will forever more be
> structurally
> > > compromised.
> > >
> > > Frank
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I believe the Tron fell forward on its "chin" and caused this
> break. It
> > > goes all the way through.
> > >
> > > It is worse than you can see here.
> > >
> > > Repairing edges and corners is easy. So is reveneering.
> > >
> > > As you can see, it is all the way through. You could dig it
> out, glue
> > it,
> > > clamp it and then fill it with Bondo, but it would never be strong.
> > >
> > > Notice the crack in the lower left corner of the photo? That
> goes all
> > the
> > > way through as well. You can also see that the corner blocks in
> the
> > bottom
> > > are cracked through.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > The question becomes, "Where do I put my effort?" Can I fix it?
> Sure,
> > and
> > > I can make the breaks invisible. But the cabinet would always
> be weak
> > and
> > > easily damaged.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > In a message dated 2/28/2011 4:15:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> > > fazeka@ writes:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi Frank,
> > >
> > > I'm only referencing pictures, but the current cabinet doesn't
> look
> > *too*
> > > bad. Is there a reason for requiring a new cab?
> > >
> > > Chris
> > >
> > > --- In __newmellotrongroup@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:__newmellotrongroup%40yahoogroups.com>_
> > (mailto:_newmellotrongroup@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:_newmellotrongroup%40yahoogroups.com>) _
> > > (mailto:_newmellotrongroup@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:_newmellotrongroup%40yahoogroups.com>_
> > (mailto:newmellotrongroup@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:newmellotrongroup%40yahoogroups.com>) ) , lsf5275@ wrote:
> > > >
> > > <snip>
> > > > I'm going to build it a new cabinet. The plan for now is to
> build it
> > out
> > > of
> > > > all MDF or a combination of MDF and Baltic Birch plywood.
> > >
> >
>
>