MOTM

I would still like to have a button on the LFO to manually retrigger the
cycle.  As I said before, this is excellent for live performance--especially
ambient stuff.

What are the final ranges for the high and low settings of the LFO?

I think all of the knobs should be in a vertical line.  Makes building soooo
much easier and enjoyable.

Since I don't have any LEDed modules yet (bad Paul! Ha!), what kind base is
around the LED or does the LED just stick through the panel.  FWIIW, I
prefer a solid holder/base.

Could someone please repeat how the shape button affects the shape of the
LFO curve?

Thanks!
Todd

>From: "Tentochi" <tentochi@...>
>
>I would still like to have a button on the LFO to manually retrigger the
>cycle.  As I said before, this is excellent for live
performance--especially
>ambient stuff.

You can just whack the SYNC jack.

>
>What are the final ranges for the high and low settings of the LFO?

It's on the NEWS page.
>
>I think all of the knobs should be in a vertical line.  Makes building
soooo
>much easier and enjoyable.

I will probably do this in the final version. I *really* don't like the
crowding that
occurs when the bottom pot and the top row, rightmost jack "collide". That's
why
I put the pot over to the left, so the "tick marks" are preserved.

What does everyone else think? Vote for easier to build, or move it over so
not to
get too close to the jack?

>
>Since I don't have any LEDed modules yet (bad Paul! Ha!), what kind base is
>around the LED or does the LED just stick through the panel.  FWIIW, I
>prefer a solid holder/base.

It is in a press-fit holder, with a flat lens. I *HATE* LEDs poking out of
holes. Cheezy PAiA crap.

>
>Could someone please repeat how the shape button affects the shape of the
>LFO curve?


It is a symmetry bias. Controls the "attack/release" ratio of the waveforms.
IE a triangle can be
thought of as a 50/50 ratio sawtooth.


Paul S.

Sounds like an easy mod - there's plenty of panel space. Wouldn't V+ through
a pushbutton to the normalled lug on the sync jack do the trick? I might do
this mod myself, cause I like pushbuttons too.

I'm still planning on modding my 800s with manual gate buttons and gate leds
as soon as Paul ships a module with a pushbutton, so I can match the same
parts.

Dave, who needs to shut up and get some work done

> >From: "Tentochi" <tentochi@...>
> >
> >I would still like to have a button on the LFO to manually retrigger the
> >cycle.  As I said before, this is excellent for live
> performance--especially
> >ambient stuff.
>
> You can just whack the SYNC jack.
>

Paul,
	Have you specced a button yet?  If so, what is it?
--Todd

> Sounds like an easy mod - there's plenty of panel space. Wouldn't 
> V+ through
> a pushbutton to the normalled lug on the sync jack do the trick? 
> I might do
> this mod myself, cause I like pushbuttons too.
> I'm still planning on modding my 800s with manual gate buttons 
> and gate leds
> as soon as Paul ships a module with a pushbutton, so I can match the same
> parts.
> Dave
> > >I would still like to have a button on the LFO to manually 
> retrigger the
> > >cycle.  As I said before, this is excellent for live
> > performance--especially
> > >ambient stuff.
> >
> > You can just whack the SYNC jack.

All I can find is:

"1 cycle in 10 minutes to 1200Hz"

What is the range for the high setting?  What is the range for the low
setting?

Am I missing something here?

> >What are the final ranges for the high and low settings of the LFO?
> It's on the NEWS page.

Thanks!
Todd

Low go up to about 100Hz, max.
Hi goes from about 1Hz to 1200Hz.

Paul S.

-----Original Message-----
From: Tentochi <tentochi@...>
To: motm@onelist.com <motm@onelist.com>
Date: Friday, May 14, 1999 3:19 PM

Subject: Re: [motm] 320 questions


>From: "Tentochi" <tentochi@...>
>
>All I can find is:
>
>"1 cycle in 10 minutes to 1200Hz"
>
>What is the range for the high setting?  What is the range for the low
>setting?
>
>Am I missing something here?
>
>> >What are the final ranges for the high and low settings of the LFO?
>> It's on the NEWS page.
>
>Thanks!
>Todd
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Star Wars fans are using ONElist to share the fun.
>http://www.ONElist.com
>Are you?
>

IMHO, people that complain about jacks being too close to the knobs are 
playing with their knobs too much! On my Serge and homebrew stuff the knobs 
are rather close together (and to the jacks as well), so when I got a few 
MOTM modules, it was like driving a Cadilac (which in most circumstances I 
wouldn't use as a "positive" comparison) due to its comfort. But I HATE 
flying wires to those Spectrol pots (since I burnt one up, and it took me a 
bit of time to figure out where the problem was). So I say GO THE EASIER WAY 
-- there's still plenty of room at the bottom of the 800, 110, and 300! 

Boy! Today's spoiled kids, with their big modulars and plenty of room! In the 
old days we used to have to .....

JB

PS Hey! You sure it wasn't Ginger Baker's Airforce?

In a message dated 5/14/99 7:09:17 AM, synth1@... writes:

>I will probably do this in the final version. I *really* don't like the
>
>crowding that
>
>occurs when the bottom pot and the top row, rightmost jack "collide". That's
>
>why
>
>I put the pot over to the left, so the "tick marks" are preserved.
>
>
>
>What does everyone else think? Vote for easier to build, or move it over
>so
>
>not to
>
>get too close to the jack?
>
>

Wasn't Paul the only one to say that????????????????????????????????????
--+0dd

> IMHO, people that complain about jacks being too close to the knobs are 
> playing with their knobs too much!