MOTM

Hi again gang.

I am planning to make a joystick controller on my own as a learning 
experience. I will be using the CH Mach-2 joystick from CH products as 
previous mentioned in a message by Nathan H. Can anybody help me out with a 
schematic for the +5/-5v circuit I need to use with the joystick? I have a 
block diagram of the circuit, but nothing specific. I want this to be of 
good quality to work into my MOTM so anything complicated is not frightening 
at this point. :~)

I like how this joystick can release either spring loaded axis at a time or 
both for free floating movement. Would I be able to use the two joystick 
buttons to generate 5v triggers to fire EG's or re trigger LFO's? I figure 
the panel would include the DB-15 connector, 2 pots, X & Y outs, and maybe 2 
Trigger outs? Please advise my friends. 1 connector, 2 pots and 4 jacks = 1 
space MOTM panel. Or do I even need the CV adjustment pots due to the 
trimmers on the joystick?

Thomas White
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

In a message dated 2/28/2000 10:05:40 AM, djthomaswhite@... writes:

>I am planning to make a joystick controller on my own as a learning 
>experience. I will be using the CH Mach-2 joystick from CH products as
>previous mentioned in a message by Nathan H. Can anybody help me out with
>a 
>schematic for the +5/-5v circuit I need to use with the joystick? I have
>a 
>block diagram of the circuit, but nothing specific. I want this to be of
>good quality to work into my MOTM so anything complicated is not frightening
>at this point. :~)

I can offer a few suggestions and I hope that others will add more. In my 
previous post about my proposed remote joystick module, I'd gone for the 
"kitchen sink" concept (2 reversing attenuators to provide scaling, and 2 
offset adjustments) since I don't really know how I'll be using it. I notice 
that a lot of pitch bend/mod levers (wheels I presume as well) have both a 
narrow and a wide setting available (I'll note that on my OB-1, the BROAD 
setting sweeps the pitch up or down an octave or 1V -- I've got the narrow 
going up or down around a third or about 1/3V). I'd like to be able to use my 
joystick for more prosaic functions like mod and pitch bend, but I also want 
to use it for panning (prosaic as well but illustrative nonetheless) in which 
case I'll want a very wide voltage output -- I believe the approximately 15V 
swing provided by reversing attenuators will be perfect for these relatively 
large voltage swings as well.


>I like how this joystick can release either spring loaded axis at a time
>or 
>both for free floating movement. Would I be able to use the two joystick
>buttons to generate 5v triggers to fire EG's or re trigger LFO's? I figure
>the panel would include the DB-15 connector, 2 pots, X & Y outs, and maybe
>2 
>Trigger outs? Please advise my friends. 1 connector, 2 pots and 4 jacks
>= 1 
>space MOTM panel. Or do I even need the CV adjustment pots due to the 
>trimmers on the joystick?

I've recently been inside a PC joystick (with the standard DB-15 connector) 
and it seems to me that all joysticks are using the pots inside as variable 
resistors, and so one would need to essentially scrap most of the standard 
innards of a joystick, get some new cable and start over if one was to do 
what I'm thinking about (or what I believe Larry's got going). It might be 
worth it to wait and see what Paul is thinking of for the module idea he 
floated a few days ago.

I know I've said this before but I do like the idea of a larger analog switch 
idea (i.e., a VC patch panel much bigger than the 700).

Wondering what Moe's got up his sleeve.
John (I was hoping that the volume of list traffic would stay high with all 
the new people starting to chime in, but it appears listmembers only speak up 
when they feel strongly about a certain feature on a proposed module -- in 
that spirit, anyone who likes VC sustain on a VCEG is a wuss!) Barlow

I sent this about two and a half hours ago -- I'll apologize for the 
repetition now while I wait for it to show up!

BTW I've got some info from Barry Klein's book and other sources if you want 
me to snail it to you (I'm just up the road in San Pedro) that's no problem 
-- and what value pots do you have in your joysticks?

In a message dated 2/28/2000 10:05:40 AM, djthomaswhite@... writes:

>I am planning to make a joystick controller on my own as a learning 
>experience. I will be using the CH Mach-2 joystick from CH products as
>previous mentioned in a message by Nathan H. Can anybody help me out with
>a 
>schematic for the +5/-5v circuit I need to use with the joystick? I have
>a 
>block diagram of the circuit, but nothing specific. I want this to be of
>good quality to work into my MOTM so anything complicated is not frightening
>at this point. :~)

I can offer a few suggestions and I hope that others will add more. In my 
previous post about my proposed remote joystick module, I'd gone for the "kitc
hen sink" concept (2 reversing attenuators to provide scaling, and 2 offset 
adjustments) since I don't really know how I'll be using it. I notice that a 
lot of pitch bend/mod levers (wheels I presume as well) have both a narrow 
and a wide setting available (I'll note that on my OB-1, the BROAD setting 
sweeps the pitch up or down an octave or 1V -- I've got the narrow going up 
or down around a third or about 1/3V). I'd like to be able to use my joystick 
for more prosaic functions like mod and pitch bend, but I also want to use it 
for panning (prosaic as well but illustrative nonetheless) in which case I'll 
want a very wide voltage output -- I believe the approximately 15V swing 
provided by reversing attenuators will be perfect for these relatively large 
voltage swings as well.


>I like how this joystick can release either spring loaded axis at a time
>or 
>both for free floating movement. Would I be able to use the two joystick
>buttons to generate 5v triggers to fire EG's or re trigger LFO's? I figure
>the panel would include the DB-15 connector, 2 pots, X & Y outs, and maybe
>2 
>Trigger outs? Please advise my friends. 1 connector, 2 pots and 4 jacks
>= 1 
>space MOTM panel. Or do I even need the CV adjustment pots due to the 
>trimmers on the joystick?

I've recently been inside a PC joystick (with the standard DB-15 connector) 
and it seems to me that all joysticks are using the pots inside as variable 
resistors, and so one would need to essentially scrap most of the standard 
innards of a joystick, get some new cable and start over if one was to do 
what I'm thinking about (or what I believe Larry's got going). It might be 
worth it to wait and see what Paul is thinking of for the module idea he 
floated a few days ago.

I know I've said this before but I do like the idea of a larger analog switch 
idea (i.e., a VC patch panel much bigger than the 700).

Wondering what Moe's got up his sleeve.
John (I was hoping that the volume of list traffic would stay high with all 
the new people starting to chime in, but it appears listmembers only speak up 
when they feel strongly about a certain feature on a proposed module -- in 
that spirit, anyone who likes VC sustain on a VCEG is a wuss!) Barlow

OK! Weirdness on the mail front. Third time's a charm, as they say! From 
yesterday.....

-----------------------------------------------------------------

I sent this about two and a half hours ago -- I'll apologize for the 
repetition now while I wait for it to show up!

BTW I've got some info from Barry Klein's book and other sources if you want 
me to snail it to you (I'm just up the road in San Pedro) that's no problem 
-- and what value pots do you have in your joysticks?


--------------------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 2/28/2000 10:05:40 AM, djthomaswhite@... writes:

>I am planning to make a joystick controller on my own as a learning 
>experience. I will be using the CH Mach-2 joystick from CH products as
>previous mentioned in a message by Nathan H. Can anybody help me out with
>a 
>schematic for the +5/-5v circuit I need to use with the joystick? I have
>a 
>block diagram of the circuit, but nothing specific. I want this to be of
>good quality to work into my MOTM so anything complicated is not frightening
>at this point. :~)

I can offer a few suggestions and I hope that others will add more. In my 
previous post about my proposed remote joystick module, I'd gone for the 
"kitchen sink" concept (2 reversing attenuators to provide scaling, and 2 
offset adjustments) since I don't really know how I'll be using it. I notice 
that a lot of pitch bend/mod levers (wheels I presume as well) have both a 
narrow and a wide setting available (I'll note that on my OB-1, the BROAD 
setting sweeps the pitch up or down an octave or 1V -- I've got the narrow 
going up or down around a third or about 1/3V). I'd like to be able to use my 
joystick for more prosaic functions like mod and pitch bend, but I also want 
to use it for panning (prosaic as well but illustrative nonetheless) in which 
case I'll want a very wide voltage output -- I believe the approximately 15V 
swing provided by reversing attenuators will be perfect for these relatively 
large voltage swings as well.


>I like how this joystick can release either spring loaded axis at a time
>or 
>both for free floating movement. Would I be able to use the two joystick
>buttons to generate 5v triggers to fire EG's or re trigger LFO's? I figure
>the panel would include the DB-15 connector, 2 pots, X & Y outs, and maybe
>2 
>Trigger outs? Please advise my friends. 1 connector, 2 pots and 4 jacks
>= 1 
>space MOTM panel. Or do I even need the CV adjustment pots due to the 
>trimmers on the joystick?

I've recently been inside a PC joystick (with the standard DB-15 connector) 
and it seems to me that all joysticks are using the pots inside as variable 
resistors, and so one would need to essentially scrap most of the standard 
innards of a joystick, get some new cable and start over if one was to do 
what I'm thinking about (or what I believe Larry's got going). It might be 
worth it to wait and see what Paul is thinking of for the module idea he 
floated a few days ago.

I know I've said this before but I do like the idea of a larger analog switch 
idea (i.e., a VC patch panel much bigger than the 700).

Wondering what Moe's got up his sleeve.
John (I was hoping that the volume of list traffic would stay high with all 
the new people starting to chime in, but it appears listmembers only speak up 
when they feel strongly about a certain feature on a proposed module -- in 
that spirit, anyone who likes VC sustain on a VCEG is a wuss!) Barlow

Curly sez:

> I also want
> to use it for panning (prosaic as well but illustrative
> nonetheless) in which
> case I'll want a very wide voltage output -- I believe the
> approximately 15V
> swing provided by reversing attenuators will be perfect for these
> relatively
> large voltage swings as well.

snip

> Wondering what Moe's got up his sleeve.

In regards to +/- 15V swings, I think limiting it to +/- 10V would be safer
(at least in a MOTM context). Your power supply rails are +/- 15V, and you
generally don't want to drive input signals all the way to the rail.

Moe has up his sleeve an external controller box. It will be pretty flat,
only 1.5 - 2" tall, 5U deep and about 6 or 8U wide. It will have a couple of
joysticks, a small MicroMoog type ribbon, 8 momentary pushbuttons arranged
in arcs for my fingers, and maybe a few latching buttons as well. There will
be a connector for my larger Moog ribbon controller to plug in (if I can
repair the ribbon!) Power in and signal outs will be carried to the main
console on a snake, with a multipin connector. There will be an output
panel, maybe 3U wide. I'd replace the momentary pushbuttons with
proportional force sensors if I could find them.

Moe

In a message dated 2/29/2000 7:59:09 PM, jlarryh@... writes:

<< I love the Micro ribbon.  Where did you get the ribbon? >>

Wow... I just remembered that I have one of these, "new" in the parts bag, 
from when I thought I was going to build an interesting controller back in 
the late 70's.  Thanks for reminding me!

Ivan

Gotta love that AOL mail server! It might not be sure, but it's slow!

In a message dated 2/29/2000 1:58:33 PM, daveb@... writes:

>In regards to +/- 15V swings, I think limiting it to +/- 10V would be safer
>(at least in a MOTM context). Your power supply rails are +/- 15V, and
>you
>generally don't want to drive input signals all the way to the rail.

Well, that's one of the benefits of the (here he goes again) reversing 
attenuator. Since the first stage of the double inverting buffer structure 
doubles the voltage, the output will always remain between -7.5V and +7.5V 
(approximately). Check it out Dave.

>Moe has up his sleeve an external controller box. It will be pretty flat,
>only 1.5 - 2" tall, 5U deep and about 6 or 8U wide. It will have a couple
>of
>joysticks, a small MicroMoog type ribbon, 8 momentary pushbuttons arranged
>in arcs for my fingers, and maybe a few latching buttons as well. There
>will
>be a connector for my larger Moog ribbon controller to plug in (if I can
>repair the ribbon!) Power in and signal outs will be carried to the main
>console on a snake, with a multipin connector. There will be an output
>panel, maybe 3U wide. I'd replace the momentary pushbuttons with
>proportional force sensors if I could find them.

I've been wondering what's going on with the ribbon controller! This little 
project box sounds very cool! Like Larry, I'm wondering where you got the 
smaller ribbon material.


In a message dated 2/29/2000 12:41:12 PM, djthomaswhite@... writes:

>Thanks again for your help! Just goes to show the integrity of the list
>and 
>its members. Good times
>

Integrity? Hey, who's he talkin bout!
John (I got your integrity right here buddy!) Barlow
Give me a few days to try and get it all together, copy it and send it out. 
I'll send you a heads up when I've got it close.

> From: Dave Bradley <daveb@...>
> 
> In regards to +/- 15V swings, I think limiting it to +/- 10V would be
safer
> (at least in a MOTM context). Your power supply rails are +/- 15V, and
you
> generally don't want to drive input signals all the way to the rail.

I agree with Dave here.  I was planning my attenuator to be 10V full scale.
 
> Moe has up his sleeve an external controller box. It will be pretty flat,
> only 1.5 - 2" tall, 5U deep and about 6 or 8U wide. It will have a couple
of
> joysticks, a small MicroMoog type ribbon, 8 momentary pushbuttons
arranged
> in arcs for my fingers, and maybe a few latching buttons as well. There
will
> be a connector for my larger Moog ribbon controller to plug in (if I can
> repair the ribbon!) Power in and signal outs will be carried to the main
> console on a snake, with a multipin connector. There will be an output
> panel, maybe 3U wide. I'd replace the momentary pushbuttons with
> proportional force sensors if I could find them.

Spiffy.  I love the Micro ribbon.  Where did you get the ribbon?

Larry

I've had the ribbon laying around for years and years.

Dave Bradley
Principal Software Engineer
Engineering Animation, Inc.
daveb@...

> I've been wondering what's going on with the ribbon controller!
> This little
> project box sounds very cool! Like Larry, I'm wondering where you got the
> smaller ribbon material.
>
>