MOTM

Please voice your opinion for "big honkin' rack rail" lengths for wood
cases.

1 26U length recorded. Any other preferences?

The rail are currently planned as simple 'L' brackets with:

a) the same tapped holes/spacing as the 19A but....
b) the other "leg" of the rail is 0.75" wide with counterbored holes to
accept wood screws
The holes on this side are about 6 inches apart.

I *know* this does not address what to do if you want 2 or more "butt-ended"
rows
on top of each other. One solution is a "semi-floating" rail, 1.00" high
with 2 parallel
rows of tapped holes. One the ends, there is a 90 degree bent flange with
say 4 counterbored
holes for wood screws. This allows the bottom panel holes of "Row A" and the
top panel holes of
"Row B" to screw into *something* that is supported on the ends (since the
ends screw into the
left/right sides of the case).

Also, these will be "cut in half" so I can ship them without sending 40"
long torpedos
through the mail system, and then postal employees use them for pole
vaulting practice.

I am assuming a 2 row by 'N' length (N to be beat to death) is what people
are looking for.

Now, *sloping* a la Moog 35/55 is another issue! I seriously doubt I can
provide angles bent other
than 30/45/60/90 (I think the Moog slope is about 10 degrees). Moog used
*wood* rails, which
with any dado machine you can just "dail in" the bevel slope. Bending 11ga
iron bars is a different
animal!!

Really, how often do you plan to move around/swap modules in the big honkin'
case?

From my end: I have to watch stuff like maximum UPS/USPS/FedX dimensions!
Unless you
want to pay $120 for Yellow Freight.

I *think* a "road case" like 18U wide by 2 rows tall by 9" deep is
'UPS-able' in a double box. Need
to check. Power supply in rear, you have room for 18 2U wide modules. About
the size of my Fender
Super Reverb amp!!


Paul S.

>
> Cast one vote for 24U length.  I guess I could cut down  from 26U.

Oh, come on! You can use 2 more VCOs!

>
> Explain to me why this does not allow one to bolt the big honking rack
> rails back to back for "butt-ended" rows one on top of another.

There is no end support. And, not everyone relishes the thought of drilling
11 gauge steel.


> That might be OK depending on the answer to my above question.  If I were
> planning to "butt-end" two rows on top of one another, or bolt top and
> bottom rows to some kind of "magic bus," I would want my joints to be
> staggered, not in the middle.  For the 26U example above.  I would want
say
> one 16U and one 10U length so the but would not be at the same point on
> both crossing rails.  However, if the answer to above says they cannot be
> "butt-ended" this is a non issue..

I don't want to have 2 different part numbers (short one/long one) to keep
track of.
Call me lazy.

Paul S.

> From: Paul Schreiber <synth1@...>
> Please voice your opinion for "big honkin' rack rail"
> lengths for wood cases.
> 
> 1 26U length recorded. Any other preferences?

Cast one vote for 24U length.  I guess I could cut down  from 26U.
 
> The rail are currently planned as simple 'L' brackets with:
> a) the same tapped holes/spacing as the 19A but....
> b) the other "leg" of the rail is 0.75" wide with counterbored
> holes to accept wood screws
> The holes on this side are about 6 inches apart.
> 
> I *know* this does not address what to do if you want 2
> or more "butt-ended" rows on top of each other.

Explain to me why this does not allow one to bolt the big honking rack
rails back to back for "butt-ended" rows one on top of another.  That is
certainly possible with the existing rack rail "L" brackets (some drilling
required). There is nothing I can see about the extra depth that would
cause a problem.  All that would be required is the same bend profile. 
Would the bend be different?  'Splain it to me Lucy."

> Also, these will be "cut in half" so I can ship them
> without sending 40" long torpedos through the mail
> system, and then postal employees use them for pole
> vaulting practice.

That might be OK depending on the answer to my above question.  If I were
planning to "butt-end" two rows on top of one another, or bolt top and
bottom rows to some kind of "magic bus," I would want my joints to be
staggered, not in the middle.  For the 26U example above.  I would want say
one 16U and one 10U length so the but would not be at the same point on
both crossing rails.  However, if the answer to above says they cannot be
"butt-ended" this is a non issue..

Larry Hendry

In a message dated 1/31/2000 4:46:20 PM, synth1@... writes:

>Please voice your opinion for "big honkin' rack rail" lengths for wood
>cases.
>1 26U length recorded. Any other preferences?


I'll take any size between 22U and 26U.

>The rail are currently planned as simple 'L' brackets with:
>a) the same tapped holes/spacing as the 19A but....
>b) the other "leg" of the rail is 0.75" wide with counterbored holes to
>accept wood screws
>The holes on this side are about 6 inches apart.


I hope the same "tight" radius as well!

>I *know* this does not address what to do if you want 2 or more "butt-ended"
>rows
>on top of each other. One solution is a "semi-floating" rail, 1.00" high
>with 2 parallel
>rows of tapped holes. One the ends, there is a 90 degree bent flange with
>say 4 counterbored
>holes for wood screws. This allows the bottom panel holes of "Row A" and
>the
>top panel holes of
>"Row B" to screw into *something* that is supported on the ends (since
>the
>ends screw into the
>left/right sides of the case).


If I understand this correctly, then this is a very similar solution to the 
one I was thinking about.


>Also, these will be "cut in half" so I can ship them without sending 40"
>long torpedos
>through the mail system, and then postal employees use them for pole
>vaulting practice.


I understand that there may be certain length limitations for shipping BUT 
I'd like to keep my rails as long as possible.

>Now, *sloping* a la Moog 35/55 is another issue! I seriously doubt I can
>provide angles bent other
>than 30/45/60/90 (I think the Moog slope is about 10 degrees). Moog used
>*wood* rails, which
>with any dado machine you can just "dail in" the bevel slope. Bending 11ga
>iron bars is a different
>animal!!


It seems that any mounting solution that would work for a middle pair of 
butted rails would work for a sloped cabinet -- or, as implied by your 
mentioning of the Moog cabinet, a wedge could be cut for top and bottom 
mounting rather easily (though I couldn't do it here). I seem to remember 
Paul S. was thinking of putting case plans together so that each of us could 
either build the case or have a carpenter build it for us. I think many of us 
could pool our resources in this manner to come up with some common 
dimensions at least.

>From my end: I have to watch stuff like maximum UPS/USPS/FedX dimensions!

Just a note that the 22U rails I got from TechAM were sent UPS (in a simple 
cardboard tube I think).

When might these be available (and how much are we thinking of paying)?
John B.