MOTM

All - new to MOTM, I'm designing a case for the modules I'll be
building.  I'll build the case out of wood - and I'm planning to screw
the moduldes directly into wood rails - top and bottom.  In your
experience, what should the optimal spacing between the rails be? 
Based on the face plates of the module kits I've recieved, I'm
thinking 7-7/8" should do the trick.  Sound right?  Thanks much.  Bill

I've used a 1/2" lip on both top and bottom and its
worked out perfectly.

Hans


--- wjhall11 <wjhall@...> wrote:

> All - new to MOTM, I'm designing a case for the
> modules I'll be
> building.  I'll build the case out of wood - and I'm
> planning to screw
> the moduldes directly into wood rails - top and
> bottom.  In your
> experience, what should the optimal spacing between
> the rails be? 
> Based on the face plates of the module kits I've
> recieved, I'm
> thinking 7-7/8" should do the trick.  Sound right? 
> Thanks much.  Bill
> 
> 
> 
>  
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 



 
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The modules are 5U high (8 3/4 ) so you should have rails that 1/2 rails that have 7 3/4 inchs of space between them. If you have more than one row of

I made my openings 1/16" wider and taller than the panels.

My height is 8 13/16" with 1/2" top and bottom rails that I faced with 
Stooge metal rails.  I inset the face of the panel 1/8" from the 
outside edge.  The external depth is 10" which has been plenty.  I 
have a 1/4" rear panel and my front panels are inset so the internal 
depth is 9 1/2".

I was a bit concerned with having the cabinets be exactly square so I 
allowed a bit more side to side spacing on one cabinet I built.  I 
allowed and extra 1/8" which does leave visible gaps on each end.  I 
used a piece of adhesive backed 1/4" open cell foam and lined each 
side of the cabinet just at the rear edge of the panel.  That worked 
great to hide and seal the edges.

I've got a few photos on
http://modularsynthesis.com/cabinet/cabinet.htm
that show some of the construction details.

I really like the Stooge rails and would rather have metal than wood.
One alternativie since the Stooge rails aren't available would be to 
use standard rack rails like
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Middle-Atlantic-18Space-Rack-
Rails?sku=549508
  
I have built a couple of racks using standard rack rails and would 
think they would work just fine.  The ones I used were 5/8" wide so 
you would have to increase the internal opening to 9" which would 
leave a 1/8" gap across the top and bottom of the module, but with a 
nice black anodized rail behind it to hide it.  Or, if you are fancy 
with a table saw, dado in a 1/8" deep grove to set the rack rail into.

One mistake I made with my cabinets is that all the weight is in the 
front.  I put mine on center pivots and really had to use non-slip 
washers to lock the cabinets in place.

Dave


-- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "wjhall11" <wjhall@...> wrote:
>
> All - new to MOTM, I'm designing a case for the modules I'll be
> building.  I'll build the case out of wood - and I'm planning to 
screw
> the moduldes directly into wood rails - top and bottom.  In your
> experience, what should the optimal spacing between the rails be? 
> Based on the face plates of the module kits I've recieved, I'm
> thinking 7-7/8" should do the trick.  Sound right?  Thanks much.  
Bill
>

Thanks for all the help, guys.  I'll make the spacing 7-3/4".

I've created some schematic drawing of the face plates of MOTM
modules.  I'm using these to plan my synth - but in the long run to
create patch sheets to record my patches (borrowing an idea from a
friend who had such sheets for the Synthi-A he sold me of yore).  It
occurred to me that they might come in handy for others to use.  I'm
loading them to a website I have.  I'll put out the URL when I'm
finished loading them nicely.

Thanks for the tip about the weight, Dave.  I'm going to put handles
on the side of the cabinet to make carrying it easier and I had
thought I'd better put them to the front.  Per your warning, I
certainly will.

Thanks again.  Bill




--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "djbrow54" <davebr@...> wrote:

>
> I made my openings 1/16" wider and taller than the panels.
> 
> My height is 8 13/16" with 1/2" top and bottom rails that I faced with 
> Stooge metal rails.  I inset the face of the panel 1/8" from the 
> outside edge.  The external depth is 10" which has been plenty.  I 
> have a 1/4" rear panel and my front panels are inset so the internal 
> depth is 9 1/2".
> 
> I was a bit concerned with having the cabinets be exactly square so I 
> allowed a bit more side to side spacing on one cabinet I built.  I 
> allowed and extra 1/8" which does leave visible gaps on each end.  I 
> used a piece of adhesive backed 1/4" open cell foam and lined each 
> side of the cabinet just at the rear edge of the panel.  That worked 
> great to hide and seal the edges.
> 
> I've got a few photos on
> http://modularsynthesis.com/cabinet/cabinet.htm
> that show some of the construction details.
> 
> I really like the Stooge rails and would rather have metal than wood.
> One alternativie since the Stooge rails aren't available would be to 
> use standard rack rails like
> http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Middle-Atlantic-18Space-Rack-
> Rails?sku=549508
>   
> I have built a couple of racks using standard rack rails and would 
> think they would work just fine.  The ones I used were 5/8" wide so 
> you would have to increase the internal opening to 9" which would 
> leave a 1/8" gap across the top and bottom of the module, but with a 
> nice black anodized rail behind it to hide it.  Or, if you are fancy 
> with a table saw, dado in a 1/8" deep grove to set the rack rail into.
> 
> One mistake I made with my cabinets is that all the weight is in the 
> front.  I put mine on center pivots and really had to use non-slip 
> washers to lock the cabinets in place.
> 
> Dave
> 
> 
> -- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "wjhall11" <wjhall@> wrote:
> >
> > All - new to MOTM, I'm designing a case for the modules I'll be
> > building.  I'll build the case out of wood - and I'm planning to 
> screw
> > the moduldes directly into wood rails - top and bottom.  In your
> > experience, what should the optimal spacing between the rails be? 
> > Based on the face plates of the module kits I've recieved, I'm
> > thinking 7-7/8" should do the trick.  Sound right?  Thanks much.  
> Bill
> >
>

You know, I did add 1/32" to the 8.75" high sides for
a little extra insurance.  However, I cut my 24u
*exactly* 42" wide and I still have small gaps on the
sides, about 1/16" each.  Thats a great idea about
using the foam strips.

I didnt put a solid piece on the back but rather left
it open.  The bad: the cabinet does not sit quite flat
and neither does anything on top of it.  The good: 
the cabinet is not particularly heavy.  Mounting the
PSU on the back helped balance it.

Hans



--- wjhall11 <wjhall@...> wrote:

> Thanks for all the help, guys.  I'll make the
> spacing 7-3/4".
> 
> I've created some schematic drawing of the face
> plates of MOTM
> modules.  I'm using these to plan my synth - but in
> the long run to
> create patch sheets to record my patches (borrowing
> an idea from a
> friend who had such sheets for the Synthi-A he sold
> me of yore).  It
> occurred to me that they might come in handy for
> others to use.  I'm
> loading them to a website I have.  I'll put out the
> URL when I'm
> finished loading them nicely.
> 
> Thanks for the tip about the weight, Dave.  I'm
> going to put handles
> on the side of the cabinet to make carrying it
> easier and I had
> thought I'd better put them to the front.  Per your
> warning, I
> certainly will.
> 
> Thanks again.  Bill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "djbrow54" <davebr@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I made my openings 1/16" wider and taller than the
> panels.
> > 
> > My height is 8 13/16" with 1/2" top and bottom
> rails that I faced with 
> > Stooge metal rails.  I inset the face of the panel
> 1/8" from the 
> > outside edge.  The external depth is 10" which has
> been plenty.  I 
> > have a 1/4" rear panel and my front panels are
> inset so the internal 
> > depth is 9 1/2".
> > 
> > I was a bit concerned with having the cabinets be
> exactly square so I 
> > allowed a bit more side to side spacing on one
> cabinet I built.  I 
> > allowed and extra 1/8" which does leave visible
> gaps on each end.  I 
> > used a piece of adhesive backed 1/4" open cell
> foam and lined each 
> > side of the cabinet just at the rear edge of the
> panel.  That worked 
> > great to hide and seal the edges.
> > 
> > I've got a few photos on
> > http://modularsynthesis.com/cabinet/cabinet.htm
> > that show some of the construction details.
> > 
> > I really like the Stooge rails and would rather
> have metal than wood.
> > One alternativie since the Stooge rails aren't
> available would be to 
> > use standard rack rails like
> >
>
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Middle-Atlantic-18Space-Rack-
> > Rails?sku=549508
> >   
> > I have built a couple of racks using standard rack
> rails and would 
> > think they would work just fine.  The ones I used
> were 5/8" wide so 
> > you would have to increase the internal opening to
> 9" which would 
> > leave a 1/8" gap across the top and bottom of the
> module, but with a 
> > nice black anodized rail behind it to hide it. 
> Or, if you are fancy 
> > with a table saw, dado in a 1/8" deep grove to set
> the rack rail into.
> > 
> > One mistake I made with my cabinets is that all
> the weight is in the 
> > front.  I put mine on center pivots and really had
> to use non-slip 
> > washers to lock the cabinets in place.
> > 
> > Dave
> > 
> > 
> > -- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "wjhall11" <wjhall@>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > All - new to MOTM, I'm designing a case for the
> modules I'll be
> > > building.  I'll build the case out of wood - and
> I'm planning to 
> > screw
> > > the moduldes directly into wood rails - top and
> bottom.  In your
> > > experience, what should the optimal spacing
> between the rails be? 
> > > Based on the face plates of the module kits I've
> recieved, I'm
> > > thinking 7-7/8" should do the trick.  Sound
> right?  Thanks much.  
> > Bill
> > >
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 



 
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Don't forget that you can actually use rack rails of the correct length 
to mount your modules on instead of drilling into wood:

http://fatbaron.com/case.jpg