MOTM

Well, I just finished building two MOTM-320s.  I spent about 9 hours total
across 4 different days.  So, for me 4 1/2 hours was the per-module time. 
It is almost as difficult as the 300, but had fewer front panel stuff, so
that made the last part go a little quicker.

I must say that this is the absolutely coolest LFO I have ever seen.  So,
my high expectations of MOTM are not denied.  Both of mine worked perfectly
on first power up.  This time I made certain not to stick any ICs in
backwards like I did on my 410.  It's amazing how easy one can make such
silly, stupid mistakes.

The dual-colored LED is VERY, VERY, VERY cool.  I think there should be
some other MOTM modules in the future with this feature.  No, I don't want
one on every module, but where they can be a meaningful and valuable
addition, I hope Paul will consider using them again.  when using the shape
controls at higher rates, the LED really reminds you if you have your wave
biased to the high or low side of zero by virtually staying the color of
majority.  This is SUPER in my opinion.  If I had a choice to leave this
out for a $ 6 savings, I would say, "NO WAY."

My conclusion was that selection of the sine wave for LED indication was
the most desirable.  I will be interested to see what others think.  I
applaud Paul for including the tri-wave in the selection since this is the
only one where shape will NOT effect the LED operation.  I can see where
some might prefer that.

If I could change anything on the modules I can think of only one thing.  I
would make the "SHAPE" silk screen scale +/- 5 with 0 at the mid point just
like the FM control since the mid point is where shape is not modified with
no CV inserted.  The 0 - 10 scale tends to make me think it is attenuation
when the CV is applied, and it is not, it is "initial."

The only difficulty I had during the construction was the tempco.  After I
pulled the tempco down to the board, I bent the two transistors over to
make contact.  Since there is a bit of spring in the transistor leads, the
contact is not quite as solid as I would like to see.  My conclusion is
that a better contact could be made if the transistors were bent over just
prior to soldering the tempco while it will still "give" over to one side
some.  Then when the tempco is pulled to its center line by soldering it
down tight, the transistors contact will be more solid.

Congratulations Paul on another GREAT module.  I'm glad I ordered two.

Larry (stooge) Hendry - surprised I am the first to report on MOTM-320
since I have been dubbed "slow" in the past with my construction.

>
> I must say that this is the absolutely coolest LFO I have ever seen.  So,
> my high expectations of MOTM are not denied.

This is why we can't crank out 6 new modules/month.

> Both of mine worked perfectly
> on first power up.  This time I made certain not to stick any ICs in
> backwards like I did on my 410.  It's amazing how easy one can make such
> silly, stupid mistakes.

I've never done this in my whole life.

>
> The dual-colored LED is VERY, VERY, VERY cool.  I think there should be
> some other MOTM modules in the future with this feature.

I bought 500 because they are custom made, and so they will turn up on other
stuff.

>This is SUPER in my opinion.  If I had a choice to leave this
> out for a $ 6 savings, I would say, "NO WAY."

That's *my* $6, your $15 (kids gotta eat). (the astute will realize I got
$3000 worth of LEDs.)

>
> My conclusion was that selection of the sine wave for LED indication was
> the most desirable.  I will be interested to see what others think.  I
> applaud Paul for including the tri-wave in the selection since this is the
> only one where shape will NOT effect the LED operation.  I can see where
> some might prefer that.

The assembled ones are defaulted to SINE as well, but some days I like
PULSE.

>
> If I could change anything on the modules I can think of only one thing.
I
> would make the "SHAPE" silk screen scale +/- 5 with 0 at the mid point
just
> like the FM control since the mid point is where shape is not modified
with
> no CV inserted.  The 0 - 10 scale tends to make me think it is attenuation
> when the CV is applied, and it is not, it is "initial."


I agree and may change the panels when I run out to add NEG....0....POS
labels
or something like that.

On another note, it was suggested that I change to *threaded* spacers, to
you don't
have to juggle with them rolling around when trying to stick the screws
through the pc board.
I will do this in the future (of course, I have about 1200 plain ones. Maybe
I can sell them to Barlow....)


>
> The only difficulty I had during the construction was the tempco.  After I
> pulled the tempco down to the board, I bent the two transistors over to
> make contact.

This is not all that critical, but the point is don't press the 2
transistors in *as far* as the other ones.
But not so long as to have them on top of the beast!

>
> Congratulations Paul on another GREAT module.  I'm glad I ordered two.

You told me 6 originally  :(  {just kidding}

Paul S.

> From: "Paul Schreiber" <synth1@...>
>
> Re: the dual-colored LED:
> 
> I bought 500 because they are custom made, and so
> they will turn up on other stuff.

Oh man ! (doing my best Elvis looking-at-donut imitation)

> That's *my* $6, your $15 (kids gotta eat). (the astute will realize I got
> $3000 worth of LEDs.)

Feed the kids, even at $15 a hit, I gotta see them again, sometime.

> On another note, it was suggested that I change to
>  *threaded* spacers, to you don't have to juggle with
> them rolling around when trying to stick the screws
> through the pc board.

I have never had a problem with this.  I put the two screws in closed to
the face, hold them while I drop the spacers on, and apply two nuts.  The
spacers near the back can easily be held in place with needle nose while
inserting the screws.

> This is not all that critical, but the point is don't press the 2
> transistors in *as far* as the other ones.
> But not so long as to have them on top of the beast!

Yes, that might be a good comment to put in the assembly instructions.   I
think it might have been a bit easier if the leads were a left a bit
longer.

> > I'm glad I ordered two.
> 
> You told me 6 originally  :(  {just kidding}

Gear head wanted 6, wallet said 2.  HAHA.

Stooge Larry

No. All I'm saving is that there is something to be said for having them
threaded
(easier to install). But thay are about 3X more expensive.

Paul S.

----- Original Message -----
From: Tentochi <tentochi@...>
To: <motm@onelist.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 12, 1999 8:34 PM
Subject: RE: [motm] 320s are ALIVE


> From: "Tentochi" <tentochi@...>
>
> Are the spacers on the '320 different than other modules?  IF they are the
> same, I prefer to keep them the way the are.
>
> --Shemp
>
> > On another note, it was suggested that I change to *threaded* spacers,
to

> > you don't
> > have to juggle with them rolling around when trying to stick the screws
> > through the pc board.
> > I will do this in the future (of course, I have about 1200 plain
> > ones. Maybe
> > I can sell them to Barlow....)
>
> >

Are the spacers on the '320 different than other modules?  IF they are the
same, I prefer to keep them the way the are.

--Shemp

> On another note, it was suggested that I change to *threaded* spacers, to
> you don't
> have to juggle with them rolling around when trying to stick the screws
> through the pc board.
> I will do this in the future (of course, I have about 1200 plain
> ones. Maybe
> I can sell them to Barlow....)

> From: "Paul Schreiber" <synth1@...>
> 
> No. All I'm saving is that there is something
> to be said for having them threaded
> (easier to install). But thay are about 3X more
> expensive.

Yep, I've got some of the threaded ones.  They are quite nice.  I actually
have a couple of different kind.  One that is threaded into both ends and
required 2 screws.  And, I have one that is male one end and female
opposite end so you use one screw and one nut.  Both are quite nice, but I
have yet to have any trouble with the plain janes we use now.

LH (working on monster patch using LFOs into filters and oscillator PWM and
such)
Love that shape control !

I'm not as coordinated as David. I use the "2 at a time" technique. Hold 2
bottom bolts in while flipping board over, drop on spacers, bracket and
secure 2 nuts loosely. The last two spacers are installed one at a time
holding them in place with hemostats or needlenose pliers while pushing the
bolt through.

Dave Bradley
Principal Software Engineer
Engineering Animation, Inc.
daveb@...

>
> From: "David Bivins" <dbivins@...>
>
> Drop screws in PCB. Spread your hand wide, use thumb and pinkie on one end
> of board, index and middle finger on other end to hold screw heads against
> PCB from top. Flip over. Drop spacers on. Drop bracket on.
> Lightly screw on
> nuts. Proceed as usual.
>
> Unless you have really small hands, this works a charm and takes
> no time at
> all.
>
> Threaded spacers would be nice, I suppose, but they won't save me
> any time.
>
> David.

> That's *my* $6, your $15 (kids gotta eat). (the astute will realize I got
> $3000 worth of LEDs.)

yeouch!  (not the $15, I don't mind even that much for something so cool,
but the idea of buying $3000 worth of LEDs).  is it the combination of
bicolor-ness and the pretty lens that turns it into a custom job?  or are
bicolors so unusual to begin with?

> On another note, it was suggested that I change to *threaded* spacers, to
> you don't
> have to juggle with them rolling around when trying to stick the screws
> through the pc board.
> I will do this in the future (of course, I have about 1200 plain ones. Maybe
> I can sell them to Barlow....)

You can keep sending me plain ones ;)
I used to try to do all four at once, that was tough.  Now I set the
bracket down, set two spacers on top of the holes on the inside (flange
side), drop screws through those two holes on the board and lower it
carefully onto the bracket, pick the whole thing up and add nuts.  Then
the outer two are easy, one at a time.

I think the challenge of the smooth spacers adds "suavity value" *grin*

> > The only difficulty I had during the construction was the tempco.  After I
> > pulled the tempco down to the board, I bent the two transistors over to
> > make contact.
> This is not all that critical, but the point is don't press the 2
> transistors in *as far* as the other ones.
> But not so long as to have them on top of the beast!

Hey, why were we supposed to press the tempco resistor all the way down to
the board, anyway?

peace,
Chris

> yeouch!  (not the $15, I don't mind even that much for something so cool,
> but the idea of buying $3000 worth of LEDs).  is it the combination of
> bicolor-ness and the pretty lens that turns it into a custom job?  or are
> bicolors so unusual to begin with?

Because they are in the press-fit lens assembly and they have attached
leads.

>
> I think the challenge of the smooth spacers adds "suavity value" *grin*
>

It's part of the "enjoyment" to watch them roll under the couch.

> Hey, why were we supposed to press the tempco resistor all the way down to
> the board, anyway?

They won't vibrate as much. The ceramic core is hollow the wire is wound on,
and I've seen them break in half.

Paul S.

Drop screws in PCB. Spread your hand wide, use thumb and pinkie on one end
of board, index and middle finger on other end to hold screw heads against
PCB from top. Flip over. Drop spacers on. Drop bracket on. Lightly screw on
nuts. Proceed as usual.

Unless you have really small hands, this works a charm and takes no time at
all.

Threaded spacers would be nice, I suppose, but they won't save me any time.

David.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul Schreiber [mailto:synth1@...]
> Sent: Sunday, December 12, 1999 7:26 PM
> To: motm@onelist.com
> Subject: Re: [motm] 320s are ALIVE
>
>
> From: "Paul Schreiber" <synth1@...>
>
> No. All I'm saving is that there is something to be said for having them
> threaded
> (easier to install). But thay are about 3X more expensive.
>
> Paul S.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Tentochi <tentochi@...>
> To: <motm@onelist.com>
> Sent: Sunday, December 12, 1999 8:34 PM
> Subject: RE: [motm] 320s are ALIVE
>
>
> > From: "Tentochi" <tentochi@...>
> >
> > Are the spacers on the '320 different than other modules?  IF
> they are the
> > same, I prefer to keep them the way the are.
> >
> > --Shemp
> >
> > > On another note, it was suggested that I change to *threaded* spacers,
> to
> > > you don't
> > > have to juggle with them rolling around when trying to stick
> the screws
> > > through the pc board.
> > > I will do this in the future (of course, I have about 1200 plain
> > > ones. Maybe
> > > I can sell them to Barlow....)
> >
> > >
>
>

i get two of the cats to hold a pair of bolts each, while the third watches
from a nearby shelf to help correct positioning.
however their solderingsucks...


so no need for threaded spacers here (it would only confuse furry minds -
and anyway, once they master the screw thread, next it'll be the wheel, and
before i know it they'll be tarting around with the video tuner and testing
nuclear weapons in the cellar)


cheers paulb


>From: "Dave Bradley" <daveb@...>
>
>I'm not as coordinated as David. I use the "2 at a time" technique. Hold 2
>bottom bolts in while flipping board over, drop on spacers, bracket and
>secure 2 nuts loosely. The last two spacers are installed one at a time
>holding them in place with hemostats or needlenose pliers while pushing the
>bolt through.
>
>Dave Bradley
>Principal Software Engineer
>Engineering Animation, Inc.
>daveb@...
>
>>
>> From: "David Bivins" <dbivins@...>
>>
>> Drop screws in PCB. Spread your hand wide, use thumb and pinkie on one
end
>> of board, index and middle finger on other end to hold screw heads
against

>> PCB from top. Flip over. Drop spacers on. Drop bracket on.
>> Lightly screw on
>> nuts. Proceed as usual.
>>
>> Unless you have really small hands, this works a charm and takes
>> no time at
>> all.
>>
>> Threaded spacers would be nice, I suppose, but they won't save me
>> any time.
>>
>> David.
>
>

When my kits arrive, I intend to have my girlfriend's snakes holding the PCB
midair while it's dangling from a light fixture.  The snakes are pretty
complacent and just tend to hang around, especially when near heat sources,
so I don't anticipate any problems.  Then I'll have both hands free for
soldering / threading / etc.  Hopefully, the iguana will keep an eye out for
randomly flying pieces.  

--PBr, anxiously waiting that first fix... er, kit.  :)

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Paul & Alleyne [SMTP:vulture.squadron@...]
> Sent:	Monday, December 13, 1999 12:35 PM
> To:	MOTM List
> Subject:	Re: [motm] 320s are ALIVE
> 
> i get two of the cats to hold a pair of bolts each, while the third
> watches
> from a nearby shelf to help correct positioning.
> however their solderingsucks...
> 
> so no need for threaded spacers here (it would only confuse furry minds -
> and anyway, once they master the screw thread, next it'll be the wheel,
> and
> before i know it they'll be tarting around with the video tuner and
> testing
> nuclear weapons in the cellar)
>

> From: "Dave Bradley" <daveb@...>
> 
> I'm not as coordinated as David. I use the "2 at a time" technique. Hold
2
> bottom bolts in while flipping board over, drop on spacers, bracket and
> secure 2 nuts loosely. The last two spacers are installed one at a time
> holding them in place with hemostats or needlenose pliers while pushing
the
> bolt through.

That's exactly how I do it Dave.  I think the stooges must be connected by
the physic hotline.
LH