Yahoo Groups archive

MOTM

Index last updated: 2026-04-28 23:35 UTC

Thread

FW: [motm] Flat rails, anyone?

FW: [motm] Flat rails, anyone?

2006-07-19 by Tkacs, Ken

>>>>> 

Hi all, 

 

I'm building a 24U wide, two row cabinet, and I need flat rails to mount
the 

modules. After all the drama, I assume it is no longer for sale
anywhere?

 

<<<<< 

 

 

 

Another thing that you can do in a pinch is use normal rack rails. What
I mean by that is the kind of rails that you would buy if you were
constructing your own 19" rack enclosure. I only looked at these
quickly, but something like this:

 

http://www.americanmusical.com/item--i-RAX-RKRL6--m-11_65_271.html

 

I used such a setup for a while before diving into the woodworking. In
fact, this might be the same exact brand that I used. I had three pairs
of these rails about 12u "high" each. Turned horizontally, I bolted two
of the pair together back-to-back (they are L-shaped in cross-section),
with the third pair split as the "top" and "bottom" rails. After bolting
a bunch of MOTM modules to these, the whole thing holds itself together
with no other back or sides (naturally, for your safety and the safety
of your modules, you wouldn't want to leave it like this, but as an
interim measure, this worked for me). 

 

All I'm saying is that if the Stooge flat rails are ever really gone for
good, maybe turning to something like these rails and building a cabinet
around them would be the way to go.

 

One thing to be aware of - the tapped holes in a 19" rack are a size
larger than those in the Stooge flat rails. I don't remember the exact
sizes off-hand, but if Paul is shipping #8x32 machine screws with the
modules, then you need #10x32 I think for the rack (whatever standard
rack-mount screws are). The holes in the corners of MOTM modules "just
about exactly" pass a #10, so you may end up nicking the paint a little
bit (inside, in the mounting holes normally covered by the screws). Just
mentioning this because it's not and perfect fit and if you're sloppy
the screws may dig into the sides of the mounting holes a tad. 

 

But it does work. And they're relatively cheap. There are other lengths
available - see the sidebar at right.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Ken T.

RE: [motm] Flat rails, anyone?

2006-07-19 by John Loffink

If flat rails become unavailable, then using solid oak trim is a good
solution.  I tested a piece for #8 screw threading and removal and gave up
after 60-70 tries.  It seemed like it would never wear out.  Just make sure
the pilot hole isn't too big, and use the screw to form the threads inside
the wood.  As I mount my flat rails to oak anyway since the mounting holes
in plywood "float" too much, making the rail position imprecise, the flat
rails seem to be a nice but extraneous and expensive feature.  They are
easily the most expensive part of my cabinets.

 

I used this same method for a Wiard 300 cabinet, which uses smaller #4
screws, and it is working just fine.

 

http://www.wavemakers-synth.com/motm/diy_resources.html

 

John Loffink

The Microtonal Synthesis Web Site

http://www.microtonal-synthesis.com

The Wavemakers Synthesizer Web Site

http://www.wavemakers-synth.com
Show quoted textHide quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: motm@yahoogroups.com [mailto:motm@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tkacs,
Ken
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 12:58 PM
To: MOTM Forum All
Subject: FW: [motm] Flat rails, anyone?

 

 

>>>>>

Hi all, 

 

I'm building a 24U wide, two row cabinet, and I need flat rails to mount the


modules. After all the drama, I assume it is no longer for sale anywhere?

 

<<<<<

 

 

 

Another thing that you can do in a pinch is use normal rack rails. What I
mean by that is the kind of rails that you would buy if you were
constructing your own 19" rack enclosure. I only looked at these quickly,
but something like this:

 

http://www.americanmusical.com/item--i-RAX-RKRL6--m-11_65_271.html

 

I used such a setup for a while before diving into the woodworking. In fact,
this might be the same exact brand that I used. I had three pairs of these
rails about 12u "high" each. Turned horizontally, I bolted two of the pair
together back-to-back (they are L-shaped in cross-section), with the third
pair split as the "top" and "bottom" rails. After bolting a bunch of MOTM
modules to these, the whole thing holds itself together with no other back
or sides (naturally, for your safety and the safety of your modules, you
wouldn't want to leave it like this, but as an interim measure, this worked
for me). 

 

All I'm saying is that if the Stooge flat rails are ever really gone for
good, maybe turning to something like these rails and building a cabinet
around them would be the way to go.

 

One thing to be aware of - the tapped holes in a 19" rack are a size larger
than those in the Stooge flat rails. I don't remember the exact sizes
off-hand, but if Paul is shipping #8x32 machine screws with the modules,
then you need #10x32 I think for the rack (whatever standard rack-mount
screws are). The holes in the corners of MOTM modules "just about exactly"
pass a #10, so you may end up nicking the paint a little bit (inside, in the
mounting holes normally covered by the screws). Just mentioning this because
it's not and perfect fit and if you're sloppy the screws may dig into the
sides of the mounting holes a tad. 

 

But it does work. And they're relatively cheap. There are other lengths
available - see the sidebar at right.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Ken T.

RE: [motm] Flat rails, anyone?

2006-07-19 by Adam Schabtach

What he said. My modules are mounted on wood rails using square-drive
pan-head wood screws. Works fine. I suppose if you were to eventually strip
a hole you could fill it with wood putty (or glue and toothpicks) and
redrill it, which is more than you can say for stripped metal threads.
 
--Adam


  _____  
Show quoted textHide quoted text
From: John Loffink [mailto:jloffink@...] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 12:25 PM
To: 'Tkacs, Ken'; 'MOTM Forum All'
Subject: RE: [motm] Flat rails, anyone?



If flat rails become unavailable, then using solid oak trim is a good
solution.  I tested a piece for #8 screw threading and removal and gave up
after 60-70 tries.  It seemed like it would never wear out.  Just make sure
the pilot hole isn't too big, and use the screw to form the threads inside
the wood.  As I mount my flat rails to oak anyway since the mounting holes
in plywood "float" too much, making the rail position imprecise, the flat
rails seem to be a nice but extraneous and expensive feature.  They are
easily the most expensive part of my cabinets.

 

I used this same method for a Wiard 300 cabinet, which uses smaller #4
screws, and it is working just fine.

 

http://www.wavemakers-synth.com/motm/diy_resources.html

 

John Loffink

The Microtonal Synthesis Web Site

http://www.microtonal-synthesis.com

The Wavemakers Synthesizer Web Site

http://www.wavemakers-synth.com

 

-----Original Message-----
From: motm@yahoogroups.com [mailto:motm@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tkacs,
Ken
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 12:58 PM
To: MOTM Forum All
Subject: FW: [motm] Flat rails, anyone?

 

 

>>>>>

Hi all, 

 

I'm building a 24U wide, two row cabinet, and I need flat rails to mount the


modules. After all the drama, I assume it is no longer for sale anywhere?

 

<<<<<

 

 

 

Another thing that you can do in a pinch is use normal rack rails. What I
mean by that is the kind of rails that you would buy if you were
constructing your own 19" rack enclosure. I only looked at these quickly,
but something like this:

 

http://www.americanmusical.com/item--i-RAX-RKRL6--m-11_65_271.html

 

I used such a setup for a while before diving into the woodworking. In fact,
this might be the same exact brand that I used. I had three pairs of these
rails about 12u "high" each. Turned horizontally, I bolted two of the pair
together back-to-back (they are L-shaped in cross-section), with the third
pair split as the "top" and "bottom" rails. After bolting a bunch of MOTM
modules to these, the whole thing holds itself together with no other back
or sides (naturally, for your safety and the safety of your modules, you
wouldn't want to leave it like this, but as an interim measure, this worked
for me). 

 

All I'm saying is that if the Stooge flat rails are ever really gone for
good, maybe turning to something like these rails and building a cabinet
around them would be the way to go.

 

One thing to be aware of - the tapped holes in a 19" rack are a size larger
than those in the Stooge flat rails. I don't remember the exact sizes
off-hand, but if Paul is shipping #8x32 machine screws with the modules,
then you need #10x32 I think for the rack (whatever standard rack-mount
screws are). The holes in the corners of MOTM modules "just about exactly"
pass a #10, so you may end up nicking the paint a little bit (inside, in the
mounting holes normally covered by the screws). Just mentioning this because
it's not and perfect fit and if you're sloppy the screws may dig into the
sides of the mounting holes a tad. 

 

But it does work. And they're relatively cheap. There are other lengths
available - see the sidebar at right.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Ken T.

Re: Flat rails, anyone?

2006-07-20 by Mike Marsh

What they said :)  But be *sure* to predrill the holes or you run the
risk of splitting the wood.  That's bad ...

Mike

--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "Adam Schabtach" <adam@...> wrote:
>
> What he said. My modules are mounted on wood rails using square-drive
> pan-head wood screws. Works fine. I suppose if you were to
eventually strip
> a hole you could fill it with wood putty (or glue and toothpicks) and
> redrill it, which is more than you can say for stripped metal threads.
>  
> --Adam
> 
> 
>   _____  
> 
> From: John Loffink [mailto:jloffink@...] 
> Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 12:25 PM
> To: 'Tkacs, Ken'; 'MOTM Forum All'
> Subject: RE: [motm] Flat rails, anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> If flat rails become unavailable, then using solid oak trim is a good
> solution.  I tested a piece for #8 screw threading and removal and
gave up
> after 60-70 tries.  It seemed like it would never wear out.  Just
make sure
> the pilot hole isn't too big, and use the screw to form the threads
inside
> the wood.  As I mount my flat rails to oak anyway since the mounting
holes
> in plywood "float" too much, making the rail position imprecise, the
flat
> rails seem to be a nice but extraneous and expensive feature.  They are
> easily the most expensive part of my cabinets.
> 
>  
> 
> I used this same method for a Wiard 300 cabinet, which uses smaller #4
> screws, and it is working just fine.
> 
>  
> 
> http://www.wavemakers-synth.com/motm/diy_resources.html
> 
>  
> 
> John Loffink
> 
> The Microtonal Synthesis Web Site
> 
> http://www.microtonal-synthesis.com
> 
> The Wavemakers Synthesizer Web Site
> 
> http://www.wavemakers-synth.com
> 
>  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: motm@yahoogroups.com [mailto:motm@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Tkacs,
> Ken
> Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 12:58 PM
> To: MOTM Forum All
> Subject: FW: [motm] Flat rails, anyone?
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> >>>>>
> 
> Hi all, 
> 
>  
> 
> I'm building a 24U wide, two row cabinet, and I need flat rails to
mount the
> 
> 
> modules. After all the drama, I assume it is no longer for sale
anywhere?
> 
>  
> 
> <<<<<
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Another thing that you can do in a pinch is use normal rack rails.
What I
> mean by that is the kind of rails that you would buy if you were
> constructing your own 19" rack enclosure. I only looked at these
quickly,
> but something like this:
> 
>  
> 
> http://www.americanmusical.com/item--i-RAX-RKRL6--m-11_65_271.html
> 
>  
> 
> I used such a setup for a while before diving into the woodworking.
In fact,
> this might be the same exact brand that I used. I had three pairs of
these
> rails about 12u "high" each. Turned horizontally, I bolted two of
the pair
> together back-to-back (they are L-shaped in cross-section), with the
third
> pair split as the "top" and "bottom" rails. After bolting a bunch of
MOTM
> modules to these, the whole thing holds itself together with no
other back
> or sides (naturally, for your safety and the safety of your modules, you
> wouldn't want to leave it like this, but as an interim measure, this
worked
> for me). 
> 
>  
> 
> All I'm saying is that if the Stooge flat rails are ever really gone for
> good, maybe turning to something like these rails and building a cabinet
> around them would be the way to go.
> 
>  
> 
> One thing to be aware of - the tapped holes in a 19" rack are a size
larger
> than those in the Stooge flat rails. I don't remember the exact sizes
> off-hand, but if Paul is shipping #8x32 machine screws with the modules,
> then you need #10x32 I think for the rack (whatever standard rack-mount
> screws are). The holes in the corners of MOTM modules "just about
exactly"
> pass a #10, so you may end up nicking the paint a little bit
(inside, in the
> mounting holes normally covered by the screws). Just mentioning this
because
> it's not and perfect fit and if you're sloppy the screws may dig
into the
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> sides of the mounting holes a tad. 
> 
>  
> 
> But it does work. And they're relatively cheap. There are other lengths
> available - see the sidebar at right.
> 
>  
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
>  
> 
> Ken T.
>

Re: FW: [motm] Flat rails, anyone?

2006-07-24 by Robert van der Kamp

Nice one, Ken!

But I probably don't have the space (height) in the cabinet to compensate for 
the base of the L shape. I'll definitely check it out, though.

- Robert
Show quoted textHide quoted text
On Wednesday 19 July 2006 19:57, Tkacs, Ken wrote:

> Another thing that you can do in a pinch is use normal rack rails. What
> I mean by that is the kind of rails that you would buy if you were
> constructing your own 19" rack enclosure. I only looked at these
> quickly, but something like this:
>
> http://www.americanmusical.com/item--i-RAX-RKRL6--m-11_65_271.html
>
> I used such a setup for a while before diving into the woodworking. In
> fact, this might be the same exact brand that I used. I had three pairs
> of these rails about 12u "high" each. Turned horizontally, I bolted two
> of the pair together back-to-back (they are L-shaped in cross-section),
> with the third pair split as the "top" and "bottom" rails. After bolting
> a bunch of MOTM modules to these, the whole thing holds itself together
> with no other back or sides (naturally, for your safety and the safety
> of your modules, you wouldn't want to leave it like this, but as an
> interim measure, this worked for me).
>
> All I'm saying is that if the Stooge flat rails are ever really gone for
> good, maybe turning to something like these rails and building a cabinet
> around them would be the way to go.
>
> One thing to be aware of - the tapped holes in a 19" rack are a size
> larger than those in the Stooge flat rails. I don't remember the exact
> sizes off-hand, but if Paul is shipping #8x32 machine screws with the
> modules, then you need #10x32 I think for the rack (whatever standard
> rack-mount screws are). The holes in the corners of MOTM modules "just
> about exactly" pass a #10, so you may end up nicking the paint a little
> bit (inside, in the mounting holes normally covered by the screws). Just
> mentioning this because it's not and perfect fit and if you're sloppy
> the screws may dig into the sides of the mounting holes a tad.
>
> But it does work. And they're relatively cheap. There are other lengths
> available - see the sidebar at right.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
>
>
> Ken T.

Move to quarantaine

This moves the raw source file on disk only. The archive index is not changed automatically, so you still need to run a manual refresh afterward.