MOTM

Hey Everyone,

Having started my MOTM system somewhat recently, I've been thinking of
getting on board for the next round of stooge panels. One of the my modules
that I have yet to build is the '700, and since rack real estate is at a
premium in my studio, I was wondering if it could be squeezed into a 1U
panel. I've uploaded a possible layout to the files area (watch for wrap):
http://f6.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/EOEXQkbkP_3lCHznqQzPanmhmXh9DZE_r3TfJNc5HK1ODYI
urWUqqiuVbUjUylwjKRZFWmsYQAEIR3zhnC-Vh4UlUw/MOTM_700_1U_PROPOSED.jpg

Some liberties would have to be taken with the construction - the pots
couldn't be mounted to the PCB, and one of the long stooge brackets would
have to be modified (leaving only the top two pot holes) and used to mount
the PCB to the panel, since the PCB would have to be set back from the front
panel to make room for the jacks, switches, and LEDs. Even then, it might be
too tight of a fit.

What do any of you more experienced in the ways of converting modules think?
Is it feasible? Is it worth the trouble to make room for another 1U module?
Would anyone else be interested in doing this, too?

Bloop,
Chris

This kind of thing is feasible.  I certainly like to cram stuff into 
panel space.  If you'll take the expense of a custom panel and the 
trouble of doing the modifications, you can customize what you like.  I 
put a MOTM-101 (minus a few features) into a 1U width.  See the right 
side here:

http://www.wiseguysynth.com/larry/panel/gif/M-101.gif

I even added an output LED and a clock polarity switch to the 101.  On 
the left are two Oakley S&H modules crammed into another 1U.  I put 4U 
of modules into 2U by selecting the features I wanted.  I also combined 
a MOTM-820 and an Oakley OMS-820 (obsolete now) into a single 2U panel.

Your design looks too crowded where the switches and LEDs are, if you 
keep the MOTM-standard 1-inch vertical spacing between the jacks, which 
I do recommend.  Here is my suggestion.  Locate the two switches aligned 
vertically with the jacks, 0.7 inch above the top jack.  There is no 
room above or below the switches for an LED.  So give up one LED on each 
module (one gives the same information as two, but it is off/on, rather 
than red/green).  Put your LEDs in the center, one above the other, like 
in your drawing.  You could try using bi-color LEDs, but you would have 
to make your own driver circuit.  If you like, I can make up a Front 
Panel Express file in about 10 minutes and send it to you.

-Richard Brewster

xamboldt wrote:

>Hey Everyone,
>
>Having started my MOTM system somewhat recently, I've been thinking of
>getting on board for the next round of stooge panels. One of the my modules
>that I have yet to build is the '700, and since rack real estate is at a
>premium in my studio, I was wondering if it could be squeezed into a 1U
>panel. I've uploaded a possible layout to the files area (watch for wrap):
>http://f6.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/EOEXQkbkP_3lCHznqQzPanmhmXh9DZE_r3TfJNc5HK1ODYI
>urWUqqiuVbUjUylwjKRZFWmsYQAEIR3zhnC-Vh4UlUw/MOTM_700_1U_PROPOSED.jpg
>
>Some liberties would have to be taken with the construction - the pots
>couldn't be mounted to the PCB, and one of the long stooge brackets would
>have to be modified (leaving only the top two pot holes) and used to mount
>the PCB to the panel, since the PCB would have to be set back from the front
>panel to make room for the jacks, switches, and LEDs. Even then, it might be
>too tight of a fit.
>
>What do any of you more experienced in the ways of converting modules think?
>Is it feasible? Is it worth the trouble to make room for another 1U module?
>Would anyone else be interested in doing this, too?
>
>Bloop,
>Chris
>
>
>
>
> 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
>  
>

I made a mistake.  It actually does look like there is enough space for 
the 4 LEDs and two switches in your panel design.

-Richard

Richard Brewster wrote:

>This kind of thing is feasible.  I certainly like to cram stuff into 
>panel space.  If you'll take the expense of a custom panel and the 
>trouble of doing the modifications, you can customize what you like.  I 
>put a MOTM-101 (minus a few features) into a 1U width.  See the right 
>side here:
>
>http://www.wiseguysynth.com/larry/panel/gif/M-101.gif
>
>I even added an output LED and a clock polarity switch to the 101.  On 
>the left are two Oakley S&H modules crammed into another 1U.  I put 4U 
>of modules into 2U by selecting the features I wanted.  I also combined 
>a MOTM-820 and an Oakley OMS-820 (obsolete now) into a single 2U panel.
>
>Your design looks too crowded where the switches and LEDs are, if you 
>keep the MOTM-standard 1-inch vertical spacing between the jacks, which 
>I do recommend.  Here is my suggestion.  Locate the two switches aligned 
>vertically with the jacks, 0.7 inch above the top jack.  There is no 
>room above or below the switches for an LED.  So give up one LED on each 
>module (one gives the same information as two, but it is off/on, rather 
>than red/green).  Put your LEDs in the center, one above the other, like 
>in your drawing.  You could try using bi-color LEDs, but you would have 
>to make your own driver circuit.  If you like, I can make up a Front 
>Panel Express file in about 10 minutes and send it to you.
>
>-Richard Brewster
>
>xamboldt wrote:
>
>  
>
>>Hey Everyone,
>>
>>Having started my MOTM system somewhat recently, I've been thinking of
>>getting on board for the next round of stooge panels. One of the my modules
>>that I have yet to build is the '700, and since rack real estate is at a
>>premium in my studio, I was wondering if it could be squeezed into a 1U
>>panel. I've uploaded a possible layout to the files area (watch for wrap):
>>http://f6.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/EOEXQkbkP_3lCHznqQzPanmhmXh9DZE_r3TfJNc5HK1ODYI
>>urWUqqiuVbUjUylwjKRZFWmsYQAEIR3zhnC-Vh4UlUw/MOTM_700_1U_PROPOSED.jpg
>>
>>Some liberties would have to be taken with the construction - the pots
>>couldn't be mounted to the PCB, and one of the long stooge brackets would
>>have to be modified (leaving only the top two pot holes) and used to mount
>>the PCB to the panel, since the PCB would have to be set back from the front
>>panel to make room for the jacks, switches, and LEDs. Even then, it might be
>>too tight of a fit.
>>
>>What do any of you more experienced in the ways of converting modules think?
>>Is it feasible? Is it worth the trouble to make room for another 1U module?
>>Would anyone else be interested in doing this, too?
>>
>>Bloop,
>>Chris
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>    
>>
>
>
>
>
> 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
>  
>

OK, I'll offer up my take on this since I have dabbled in these thing s a
little. :-)  I think this is certainly a possible conversion.  Whether
desirable or not is left as a subject of taste and debate.

If I were doing this, conversion, I would not use a 4 pot long stooge
bracket.  Certainly you could.  But, trimming the hard stainless brackets is
not all that fun.  Of course, if you have the right tools, you are OK.  Here
is another options to consider:

Re-use the bracket that comes with the 700.  Once disassembled, take the
regular MOTM bracket and break off or cut off the skinny legs that normally
attach the bracket to the panel so that you have only a flat plate with the
correct holes for mounting the PCB.

Buy two of my "modular" brackets.  Get one of the "one-pot" brackets and one
of the "jack only" brackets.  You can mount the one pot bracket on the top
pot, and mount the jack only bracket on the top and 2nd from top row of
jacks on the right side as you face the panel.  You can align the PCB
mounting area of these individual brackets so they are parallel and level.
Nothing there will be no bracket behind the LED switch area you need to keep
clear.

Take your modified stock MOTM bracket and use it to bridge the two new
stooge brackets.  It can be moved as far back on its new Stooge "panel
supports" as needed.  You simply drill holes in the Stooge bracket to match
the two front holes in the MOTM bracket for the PCB mounting.  You may also
want to add a second hole in each bracket through the MOTM bracket at the
back of the Stooge bracket which will probably be mid way back the MOTM
bracket.  You will need a couple of short screws and nuts for those two
holes.

So, when you are done, you have the normal MOTM bracket sitting back further
thanks to the new Stooge mounting hardware.  Two of the PCB bolts go through
both sets of brackets.  The back two go through the MOTM bracket only.

It would be a much easier modification to cut or break the cold rolled steel
mounting legs off the MOTM bracket than so much cutting on the Stooge 4 pot
long. Of course, the other obvious things I did not mention about mounting
pots off the PCB.

Having said all that, if you have tools to cut the 4 pot long very nicely,
that will probably look the best from the rear when complete.

Stooge Larry
Official designer of Stooge mooting systems.  Don't be fooled by imitation
brackets. Buy the original. :-) I want a new Harley

-----Original Message-----
From: xamboldt [mailto:xamboldt@...]
Some liberties would have to be taken with the construction - the pots
couldn't be mounted to the PCB, and one of the long stooge brackets would
have to be modified (leaving only the top two pot holes) and used to mount
the PCB to the panel, since the PCB would have to be set back from the front
panel to make room for the jacks, switches, and LEDs. Even then, it might be
too tight of a fit.

What do any of you more experienced in the ways of converting modules think?
Is it feasible? Is it worth the trouble to make room for another 1U module?
Would anyone else be interested in doing this, too?

Bloop,
Chris

--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, xamboldt <xamboldt@e...> wrote:
> and since rack real estate is at a premium in my studio

I played around with a FrontPanelExpress design and moved the
switches by each of the controls ala MOTM-190 style.  Then I
arranged each vertical column of jacks as a channel with the
LEDs at the top.
 
It all fits.  I uploaded the file as "1U MOTM-700.fpd".  The cost is 
over $50 which is pretty spendy for saving 1U of real estate.  We all 
know you can't save real estate ... your system will continue to 
expand until you have to put an addition on your house.

My first cabinet was a 20U vertical rack.  I didn't even receive all 
of my modules before it was hopelessly too small!  I added another
10U  extension on top and this lasted <6 months before I gave
up and built a three tier 24U (e.g. 72U total) cabinet.  I've already
run out and am reusing my 10U extension and trying to figure out
where to add my side wings now!  Give up on this real estate
dream and hire the architects now for your studio addition!  Ever
heard of the TONTO syndrome?

http://modularsynthesis.com/cabinet/cabinet.htm

Dave

-----Original Message-----

From: djbrow54 [mailto:davebr@...]
It all fits.  I uploaded the file as "1U MOTM-700.fpd".  The cost is over
$50 which is pretty spendy for saving 1U of real estate.

--LH--
If you can drill your own holes, here is a Stooge price for quantities 2 to
5:  If you

5 @ $ 23.80
4 @ $ 25.75
3 @ $ 29.00
2 @ $ 35.50

I cannot match that $50 price for only one.

Maybe others are interested?
Larry

Thanks for all the great responses, guys. Yeah, I'm really hoping that
others would be interested in getting some of these, too, because I'm
inclined to believe that $50+ is a little steep for doing this right now.

I like Larry's idea of using the original bracket and the 2 modular brackets
- why didn't I think of that? :) I won't have access to a windows computer
for another few weeks, so I can't look at the fpd file right now, but I'll
be very interested to see how it looks.

It dawned on me very quickly that my synth will never be "finished," but
since I'm a renter living in NYC, my studio can't grow too large, unless I
want to sleep in the hall. Hmmm, maybe I could attach it to the bottom of a
Murphy bed? :)

Anyway, thanks again for all the help. If anyone else wants to get one of
these panels made, too, please let me (and the list) know!

-Chris

On 2/20/05 1:15 PM, "J. Larry Hendry" <jlarryh@...> wrote:

> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: djbrow54 [mailto:davebr@...]
> It all fits.  I uploaded the file as "1U MOTM-700.fpd".  The cost is over
> $50 which is pretty spendy for saving 1U of real estate.
> 
> --LH--
> If you can drill your own holes, here is a Stooge price for quantities 2 to
> 5:  If you
> 
> 5 @ $ 23.80
> 4 @ $ 25.75
> 3 @ $ 29.00
> 2 @ $ 35.50
> 
> I cannot match that $50 price for only one.
> 
> Maybe others are interested?
> Larry