MOTM

Hey All -

OK, 510 came today and it's built and in the rig!  Pretty easy build 
if you have a few under your belt. The wiring is the hardest (most 
tedious) part.  Watch out for R13 and R29: I switched 'em, the 
labels are funny.  Also, the manual says the 68K resitors (7 of 
them) are green, gray, black: that should be BLUE, gray, black.  My 
switch pot is a little scratchy, too.  I'll see if that works itself 
out; if not, I'll ping Paul.

Try this if you have one: SIN into Y IN, then mess around with each 
of the X, Y, and Z WARP knobs.  Try it with the POWER knob at each 
of the three positions. I find I can get timbres anywhere from an 
Oakley Wave Folder to a CGS Wave Folder and a whole bunch of other 
stuff in between.  Try putting an LFO into the Z OFFSET jack.  Big 
timbre from a single sine wave!

Now add SAW to X and PULSE to Z from the same oscillator as the sine 
wave.  Or a different one.  Somebody please get me away from my rig!

Mike

>  Also, the manual says the 68K resitors (7 of
> them) are green, gray, black: that should be BLUE, gray, black.

I have been manually correcting this, reprinted 30 new manuals today so that 
newer kits will be corrected.

> My switch pot is a little scratchy, too.  I'll see if that works itself
> out; if not, I'll ping Paul.

Errr...he means the ROOT/POWER/UNITY rotary switch.

OK, it's NOT scratchy. If you are running audio through it, and you apply 
pressure to the knob, the what will happen is you will get "bounce" like in a 
pushbutton (the 2 metal sliding contacts scrape, there are <100US disconnects 
between the contacts, and the AD538 freaks out). So...be aware that even when 
you briskly rotate the switch, there is a short time that some of the *12* 
contacts are "in flight" (not touching anything) and the AD538 is going "What's 
up with THAT??!?" and you may hear a noise burst. When the switch it sitting 
there it's happy and no noise. Ain't analog grand?

Paul S.