Synth-DIY Yahoo! Groups Archives

Thread

Sloped rails

1999-10-25 by Tkacs, Ken

I would think it would be easier (cheaper) to simply connect the two rails
to a wedge, no? The rails I bought have mounting flanges that go back almost
2", which is pretty deep. Even a few wooden wedges spaced along the length
should do it.

-----Original Message-----
I wonder if the rails could be offered in <gulp> two
different styles: one a 90 degree bend and the
other a sloped bend. Maybe there's another way around this.

Re: Sloped rails

1999-10-26 by JWBarlow@aol.com

In a message dated 10/24/99 9:35:11 PM, jlarryh@... writes:

>However, it sounds like two of the stooges may interested in similar
>cabinet designs. My lower cabinet will be 2 rows 24U wide (sloped). My
>top cabinet will be 1 row 24U wide (not sloped). Each will have one magic
>bus 12 X 4 multiple.

Yes, these sound almost exactly like what I'm thinking of except for my
sloped cabinet I'm thinking of two of your magic bus strips (one for each row
of MOTM). And I'm thinking of a second single row MOTM cabinet as well.

In a message dated 10/25/99 5:42:13 AM, Ken.Tkacs@... writes:

Show quoted textHide quoted text

>I would think it would be easier (cheaper) to simply connect the two rails
>to a wedge, no? The rails I bought have mounting flanges that go back almost
>2", which is pretty deep. Even a few wooden wedges spaced along the length
>should do it.

Interesting idea! Wedges might not be as sturdy as I'd like -- another idea
is to bend some small corner braces (the 3/4" to 1" ones) which seem to
retain their strength even after being bent. I liked Larry's routing option
too, though I think you'd notice the top edge being thinner than the sides of
the cabinet.

No thoughts on attaching rails to the sides of the cabinet I guess.
JB

Re: Sloped rails

1999-10-26 by J. Larry Hendry

> From: JWBarlow@...
> Yes, these sound almost exactly like what I'm thinking of except for my
> sloped cabinet I'm thinking of two of your magic bus strips (one for each

row

> of MOTM).

Well, I certainly thought that direction too. However, I have wondered
recently if it was not excessive. However, maybe "excessive" describes
modular in general. HAHA (flame suit on).

> And I'm thinking of a second single row MOTM cabinet as well.

Aren't we all ??

> In a message dated 10/25/99 5:42:13 AM, Ken.Tkacs@... writes:
>
> >I would think it would be easier (cheaper) to simply connect the two

rails

> >to a wedge, no? The rails I bought have mounting flanges that go back

almost

> >2", which is pretty deep. Even a few wooden wedges spaced along the

length

> >should do it.
>
> (back to JB)
> Interesting idea! Wedges might not be as sturdy as I'd like -- another

idea

> is to bend some small corner braces (the 3/4" to 1" ones) which seem to
> retain their strength even after being bent. I liked Larry's routing

option

> too, though I think you'd notice the top edge being thinner than the

sides of

> the cabinet.

OK JB, since I know you are a stooge, I will draw you a picture.
Otherwise, it would be two fingers inserted directly to the eye sockets.
Knyuck.. knyuck...

My routing idea was directed at the bottom rail (I should have said so).
One of the problems with having different bend angles is that each sloped
cabinet would require one less than 90 and one more than 90. The routing
idea is for the back part of the lower rail. So, the routing is completely
inside the cabinet and does not reduce the visible edge of the wood. There
is no routing right under the rail edge where the modules bolt. The router
cut is at 90 degrees to the front slope so that the back of the rail edge
is cut into the wood slightly. The front edge is normal and the routing is
invisible from the front.

I had not given the top too much thought. However the router idea does not
work well on the top. You would have to cut for the front of the rail
(which even a stooge could see, as you pointed out, would cause the front
edge to be reduced). I think as Ken pointed out you would have to wedge up
the back. What is used to do so would depend a lot on how deep the rail
is. You could run something the length of the rail or spaced under the
attachment screws (like Ken suggested).

Show quoted textHide quoted text

> No thoughts on attaching rails to the sides of the cabinet I guess.

Actually, there are several well documented plans on how to do this on the
MOTM site. And, there have been many threads written on the subject on
this mail list. However, there is a conspiracy against stooges without
hair to restrict their access to all the good information.

Larry (even he had hair on the sides) stooge Hendry

RE: Sloped rails

1999-10-26 by Dave Bradley

OK, here's what I'm thinking currently.

Look at an old Moog 55 cabinet. It is 3/4" thick, but the modules are inset
into the front edge such that it only appears about 1/4" - 3/8" thick on the
sides and top, as viewed from the front. I like this look and intend to
replicate it.

Rails would be left unbent, but angled cuts made at top and bottom of the
cab to set them at the proper angle. At the bottom, you might end up turning
the rail upside down over a raised ramp because of the reduced thickness.
Center rails are either bolted to each other or to a magic bus U channel. If
you use a U channel, the rails bolt back from the edge a distance equal to
the panel widths, so that the front of the U is flush to the panels.

I'm also considering a bottom row of panels turned SIDEWAYS. I'd put output
mixers with pan, kbd CV and gate normalizing switches, power switch, inputs
for ribbon and joystick controllers, inverters, etc. - the same kinda stuff
you'd see on the bottom of a Moog cabinet. For a 24U wide cab, there would
be space for 4 full panels plus one cut down to 4U high (wide).

Cab will be walnut, about 8" deep at the top, about 12" deep at the bottom.

Dave Bradley
Principal Software Engineer
Engineering Animation, Inc.
daveb@...

Show quoted textHide quoted text

> -----Original Message-----
> From: JWBarlow@... [mailto:JWBarlow@...]
> Sent: Monday, October 25, 1999 9:37 PM
> To: motm@onelist.com
> Subject: Re: [motm] Sloped rails
>
>
> From: JWBarlow@...
>
> In a message dated 10/24/99 9:35:11 PM, jlarryh@... writes:
>
> >However, it sounds like two of the stooges may interested in similar
> >cabinet designs. My lower cabinet will be 2 rows 24U wide (sloped). My
> >top cabinet will be 1 row 24U wide (not sloped). Each will have
> one magic
> >bus 12 X 4 multiple.
>
>
> Yes, these sound almost exactly like what I'm thinking of except for my
> sloped cabinet I'm thinking of two of your magic bus strips (one
> for each row
> of MOTM). And I'm thinking of a second single row MOTM cabinet as well.
>
> In a message dated 10/25/99 5:42:13 AM, Ken.Tkacs@... writes:
>
> >I would think it would be easier (cheaper) to simply connect the
> two rails
> >to a wedge, no? The rails I bought have mounting flanges that go
> back almost
> >2", which is pretty deep. Even a few wooden wedges spaced along
> the length
> >should do it.
>
>
> Interesting idea! Wedges might not be as sturdy as I'd like --
> another idea
> is to bend some small corner braces (the 3/4" to 1" ones) which seem to
> retain their strength even after being bent. I liked Larry's
> routing option
> too, though I think you'd notice the top edge being thinner than
> the sides of
> the cabinet.
>
> No thoughts on attaching rails to the sides of the cabinet I guess.
> JB
>
> >

RE: Sloped rails

1999-10-26 by CHRIS PARKER

Are you going to do the wood work yourself, Dave? If so, where did you find 12" wide 3/4" walnut and how much did it cost you? I still have hopes of getting some 100 year old cypress for my cases, but if my supplier doesn't come through I would like to find some nice wood like you're talking about.

Chris Parker

>>> "Dave Bradley" <daveb@...> 10/26/99 09:37AM >>>

From: "Dave Bradley" <daveb@...>

OK, here's what I'm thinking currently.

Look at an old Moog 55 cabinet. It is 3/4" thick, but the modules are inset
into the front edge such that it only appears about 1/4" - 3/8" thick on the
sides and top, as viewed from the front. I like this look and intend to
replicate it.

Rails would be left unbent, but angled cuts made at top and bottom of the
cab to set them at the proper angle. At the bottom, you might end up turning
the rail upside down over a raised ramp because of the reduced thickness.
Center rails are either bolted to each other or to a magic bus U channel. If
you use a U channel, the rails bolt back from the edge a distance equal to
the panel widths, so that the front of the U is flush to the panels.

I'm also considering a bottom row of panels turned SIDEWAYS. I'd put output
mixers with pan, kbd CV and gate normalizing switches, power switch, inputs
for ribbon and joystick controllers, inverters, etc. - the same kinda stuff
you'd see on the bottom of a Moog cabinet. For a 24U wide cab, there would
be space for 4 full panels plus one cut down to 4U high (wide).

Cab will be walnut, about 8" deep at the top, about 12" deep at the bottom.

Dave Bradley
Principal Software Engineer
Engineering Animation, Inc.
daveb@...

Show quoted textHide quoted text

> -----Original Message-----
> From: JWBarlow@... [mailto:JWBarlow@...]
> Sent: Monday, October 25, 1999 9:37 PM
> To: motm@onelist.com
> Subject: Re: [motm] Sloped rails
>
>
> From: JWBarlow@...
>
> In a message dated 10/24/99 9:35:11 PM, jlarryh@... writes:
>
> >However, it sounds like two of the stooges may interested in similar
> >cabinet designs. My lower cabinet will be 2 rows 24U wide (sloped). My
> >top cabinet will be 1 row 24U wide (not sloped). Each will have
> one magic
> >bus 12 X 4 multiple.
>
>
> Yes, these sound almost exactly like what I'm thinking of except for my
> sloped cabinet I'm thinking of two of your magic bus strips (one
> for each row
> of MOTM). And I'm thinking of a second single row MOTM cabinet as well.
>
> In a message dated 10/25/99 5:42:13 AM, Ken.Tkacs@... writes:
>
> >I would think it would be easier (cheaper) to simply connect the
> two rails
> >to a wedge, no? The rails I bought have mounting flanges that go
> back almost
> >2", which is pretty deep. Even a few wooden wedges spaced along
> the length
> >should do it.
>
>
> Interesting idea! Wedges might not be as sturdy as I'd like --
> another idea
> is to bend some small corner braces (the 3/4" to 1" ones) which seem to
> retain their strength even after being bent. I liked Larry's
> routing option
> too, though I think you'd notice the top edge being thinner than
> the sides of
> the cabinet.
>
> No thoughts on attaching rails to the sides of the cabinet I guess.
> JB
>
> >

RE: Sloped rails

1999-10-26 by Cary Roberts

>Are you going to do the wood work yourself, Dave? If so, where did you
>find 12" wide 3/4" walnut and how much did it cost you? I still have
>hopes of getting some 100 year old cypress for my cases, but if my
>supplier doesn't come through I would like to find some nice wood like
>you're talking about.

Even if you can find 12" walnut, I'd suggest ripping it down to
4" widths, and flipping every other piece and regluing. That
will prevent warping. If anyone needs wood, I live in the middle
of WV, and finding nice hardwood is not difficult. There are
at least a dozen mills nearby, and I can get everything from rough
cut to finished oak, maple, cherry, birch, etc, etc. The other
alternative is to get some nice walnut or cherry veneer, and use
some real nice 13ply birch 5/8" plywood for the cabinet.

-Cary

Re: Sloped rails

1999-10-27 by JWBarlow@xxx.xxx

In a message dated 10/26/99 1:49:23 AM, jlarryh@... writes:

Show quoted textHide quoted text

>Actually, there are several well documented plans on how to do this on
>the
>MOTM site. And, there have been many threads written on the subject on
>this mail list. However, there is a conspiracy against stooges without
>hair to restrict their access to all the good information.

First, let me make this clear -- I'm wondering how to attach the center rails
(of a two row cabinet) to the sides of the cabinet. Again "L" brackets is all
I can think of.
Is it true that this problem is dealt with on the MOTM site?

JB