MOTM

True. I imagine drilling round holes and then using a flat file to
make them into rectangles. I haven't looked into what displays are
available. But if the display can be plugged into the front using a
bezel it can hide any less than perfect drilling and filing. Just an
idea from someone who hates trying to line up all those tiny LED
holes.

At 9:32 AM -0700 2003/05/21, Markk wrote:

>I think those would be "difficult" to cut into the panels as well...
>long rectangular hole ?? I think...
>
>M
>
>
>I have one other request for the MiniWave rev. 4. Rather than have
>rows of LEDs to drill, how about using 7 segment displays for wave,
>bank, and rom? One display for each, using hex notation for waves and
>banks: 0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,A,b,C,d,E,F.

I use a Dremel to cut Stooge Larry's brackets sometimes. If it works
on those, it should also work on the (admittedly thicker) panel
aluminum.

Mike

--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, Scott Juskiw <scott@t...> wrote:
> True. I imagine drilling round holes and then using a flat file to
> make them into rectangles. I haven't looked into what displays are
> available. But if the display can be plugged into the front using a
> bezel it can hide any less than perfect drilling and filing. Just
an
> idea from someone who hates trying to line up all those tiny LED
> holes.
>
> At 9:32 AM -0700 2003/05/21, Markk wrote:
> >I think those would be "difficult" to cut into the panels as
well...
> >long rectangular hole ?? I think...
> >
> >M
> >
> >
> >I have one other request for the MiniWave rev. 4. Rather than have
> >rows of LEDs to drill, how about using 7 segment displays for wave,
> >bank, and rom? One display for each, using hex notation for waves
and
> >banks: 0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,A,b,C,d,E,F.

I typically use a sheetmetal punch for rectangular apertures. The
thickness of an MOTM panel is at the very limit of what I consider "safe"
for the punch, however. What I need is one of those nifty CNC laser
cutting tables...

Crow
/**/

> Just an
> idea from someone who hates trying to line up all those tiny LED
> holes.

I'm feeling rather smug because I finally drilled my panel recently, and my
LED holes came out just about perfectly. I used a drill press and a guide
clamped to its table to ensure that the holes were parallel. Ironically,
though, I managed to drill one of the holes for the jacks slightly off from
its proper location--yes, even though I used a center punch, a drill press,
and many sizes of bits.

Personally I'd rather drill eight small holes than cut rectangular holes. I
don't mind the binary display, but then I've been using binary number since
jr. high school (and that was a long time ago).

My suggestion for new revs of the Stooge panel is this: why are there 20
tick marks around the Bank and Wave knobs, when there are 16 banks and
waves? I imagine that the answer is so that the graphics will match the MOTM
standard, but in this case it would make a lot more sense if there were
eight heavy tick marks and eight light ones. Then you could just dial up the
bank/wave that you want. This might reduce the desire for a hexadecimal
display.

--Adam

--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, The Old Crow <oldcrow@o...> wrote:

>
> I typically use a sheetmetal punch for rectangular apertures. The
> thickness of an MOTM panel is at the very limit of what I consider

"safe"

> for the punch, however. What I need is one of those nifty CNC laser
> cutting tables...
>
> Crow
> /**/

Ah... that would be nice....

For rectanglular holes I have been using drill bits close to the width
I'm looking for and then making a row of slightly overlapping holes
along the same centerline. From there I work the "points" down with a
file and also cut my corners with the file. The results are very good
if you take your time when approaching the size you are looking for.
Having the right measuring tools is a big plus. +/- .005" can be had
this way with a little patience. I try to get within +/-.0001". I'm a
metrologist for a living so I kind of feel compelled to sit with a
bunch of files for hours on end.

+/-.010" will look fine. An average human hair is about .0025".

multiply by 25.4 for m

>
> multiply by 25.4 for m

I don't know why but yahoo cut the last letter off of my post. 'm'
should read "mm" for millimeters. In my other post the last letter
was
cut off of my name. Does anyone know what is going on?

Peter... not Pete....