MOTM

> good way to unsolder MOTM PCB's??  They seem to delaminate very
> easily.

Actually, no they don't. The LPI solder mask used makes it *extremely difficult* to delaminate
unless you:

a) are using an iron not regulated to 700F

b) are not removing all the solder and/or you are not first detaching the lead from the *inside
edge* of the plated-thru hole. In many cases, a lead 'sticks' to the inside plating. You have to
gently wiggle it side-to-side after 'solder-sucking' before pulling.

The resistor/cap holes used on the boards is *oversized* as compared to 'commercial' boards. This
was done *on purpose* to make it easier to desolder.

In 5 years, I've personally never delaminated any MOTM pc board.

Paul S.

At 4:04 PM -0500 4/27/03, Paul Schreiber wrote:
>  > good way to unsolder MOTM PCB's??  They seem to delaminate very
>>  easily.
>
>Actually, no they don't. The LPI solder mask used makes it 
>*extremely difficult* to delaminate
>unless you:
>
>a) are using an iron not regulated to 700F

Mine is regulated to 700F.

>b) are not removing all the solder and/or you are not first 
>detaching the lead from the *inside edge* of the plated-thru hole. 
>In many cases, a lead 'sticks' to the inside plating. You have to
>gently wiggle it side-to-side after 'solder-sucking' before pulling.

I think that's what I've been doing.  I know MOTM PCB's are 
top-quality, so maybe I'm doing something else wrong.

>The resistor/cap holes used on the boards is *oversized* as compared 
>to 'commercial' boards. This
>was done *on purpose* to make it easier to desolder.
>
>In 5 years, I've personally never delaminated any MOTM pc board.