MOTM

What is a good supplier of 1/4" patch cables? I'd like to use
something with a wide range of colors to facilitate the organization
of very complex patches. Also, a good cable organizer sure would come
in handy. My apologies if this topic is covered in the archives.

Kevin

Hosa makes some 18 inch and 36 inch molded 1/4" patch cables, but the 36
inch ones are getting hard to find.

MARS carried some, named Cable-up or something like that, apparently
sourced by Tascam.  MARS is going out of business, so that's out.

Peavey makes colored patch cables.  You can order them online at
http://www.peavey.com/ under accessories, or they might point you
towards a local store that carries them.  They have 18 inch and 36 inch
lengths.  I just ordered some since the other sources seem to be drying
up.  

For cables greater than 3 feet, I prefer something with heavier
shielding.  Synthesizers.com has 4 and 6 foot lengths. These are color
coded only by a 2-3 inch piece of shrink wrap on each end, and the color
coding is identical for same length cables.

Raxxess and Map Cable management holders are available from most online
retailers such as Sweetwater Sound, Zzounds, etc.  These are very useful
and can mount to a wall or cabinet.

John Loffink
jloffink@... 

> What is a good supplier of 1/4" patch cables? I'd like to use
> something with a wide range of colors to facilitate the organization
> of very complex patches. Also, a good cable organizer sure would come
> in handy. My apologies if this topic is covered in the archives.

> MARS carried some, named Cable-up or something like that, apparently
> sourced by Tascam.  MARS is going out of business, so that's out.

I know I've heard the name Cable-up elsewhere--or rather I know I've heard
it and I've never been in a Mars store... Yes, Sweetwater carries them,
although their online store doesn't list anything that would be useful for
MOTM patching. But still, it looks like Mars is not their only distributor.

--Adam

Speaking of IKEA, they had (still have?) this cheap "IVAR"
system where you put metal pieces into holes for assembling the
rack. On a finished rack, 95% of these holes are unused, and
a 1/4" jack fits *exactly" inside.

JH.


-----Urspr\ufffdngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Steve <s.f.martin@...>
An: 'Kevin Loper' <kloper@...>; <motm@yahoogroups.com>
Gesendet: Sonntag, 15. Dezember 2002 04:06
Betreff: RE: [motm] 1/4" Patch Cables

> Patch cables I cant help with, but I have found a great solution for
> patch cable storage/racking.
> I got a pot lid rack from IKEA it works really well for hanging smaller
> cables on the top rack and so on until the longest ones loop over the
> bottom - daft but effective
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kevin Loper [mailto:kloper@...]
> Sent: 14 December 2002 10:31
> To: motm@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [motm] 1/4" Patch Cables
>
> What is a good supplier of 1/4" patch cables? I'd like to use
> something with a wide range of colors to facilitate the organization
> of very complex patches. Also, a good cable organizer sure would come
> in handy. My apologies if this topic is covered in the archives.
>
> Kevin
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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>What is a good supplier of 1/4" patch cables? I'd like to use
>something with a wide range of colors to facilitate the organization
>of very complex patches.

You have many options.  You could order custom cables from Clarke, ProCo,
etc. in a number of different colors.  If you need even more colors, you
can split open a snake cable.  For triggers and gates you can get away with
inexpensive rainbow packs of cables with molded plastic ends -- you can
find those at any music store.

Another solution is to colour the ends with heat shrink tubing.

>Also, a good cable organizer sure would come in handy.

Since I'm shy on space, my plan is to use cable holders that screw into the
vertical rack rails of the road case which will hold my MOTM system.  They
look like metal L's with threads on one end, and are also good for
headphones and rolls of tape.  If you have the floor space, or if you
aren't using standard rack rails, you can choose from a number of
stand-alone cable caddies.  You can also buy hooks that screw into the
wall, available at any hardware store.

Believe it or not, a friend of mine uses a chrome chef's rack.  You can get
them from any restaurant supplier.  It's mounted like a chandelier to the
ceiling of his control room.  Some day I'm going to hang a frying pan up
there and see how long it takes him to notice it :)

One habit I've developed over the years is to bind cables with wire ties
before putting them away.  The amount of time you will save not having to
untangle them is well worth the cost.  You can buy wire tires in a big
plastic economy-sized jar for very little money.  Re-usable velcro ties for
binding snakes are often available as free promotional items.

I wonder how much I can get for my MOTM pen on Ebay ;)

>My apologies if this topic is covered in the archives.

No need to apologize, the only way to read them is put up with all the
@#$%&* pop-ups at yahoogroups.

Musicians Friend sometimes has good prices on cables - worth your while to
check every couple of days.

Their 'standard' (American Cable Company) cable is not bad quality
(especially for synth voltage levels) and quite sturdy.  One foot for $3.99
and thee foot for $4.49. Comes in all sorts of purdy colors too (neon!).

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/srs7/sid=021213202805216231045140705800/searc
h/g=key/detail/base_id/39313

Was just noticing that they have a special on 20' cables for $2.99 with free
shipping if you order more than $299  (Product #335497)
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/srs7/sid=021213202805216231045140705800/searc
h/g=key/detail/base_id/41166

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kevin Loper [mailto:kloper@...]
> Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 10:31 AM
> To: motm@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [motm] 1/4" Patch Cables
>
>
> What is a good supplier of 1/4" patch cables? I'd like to use
> something with a wide range of colors to facilitate the organization
> of very complex patches. Also, a good cable organizer sure would come
> in handy. My apologies if this topic is covered in the archives.
>
> Kevin
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

Patch cables I cant help with, but I have found a great solution for
patch cable storage/racking.
I got a pot lid rack from IKEA it works really well for hanging smaller
cables on the top rack and so on until the longest ones loop over the
bottom - daft but effective

-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Loper [mailto:kloper@...] 
Sent: 14 December 2002 10:31
To: motm@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [motm] 1/4" Patch Cables
 
What is a good supplier of 1/4" patch cables? I'd like to use
something with a wide range of colors to facilitate the organization
of very complex patches. Also, a good cable organizer sure would come
in handy. My apologies if this topic is covered in the archives.

Kevin





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I've been very happy with my .com cables. Hosa feels like a VA by comparison
;-) They're color coded, sturdy, everything you need.

best,
- Scott
____________
http://www.red-noise.com
http://www.strawberryplanet.org

> MARS carried some, named Cable-up or something like that, apparently
> sourced by Tascam.  MARS is going out of business, so that's out.

>>I know I've heard the name Cable-up elsewhere--or rather I know I've heard
it and I've never been in a Mars store... Yes, Sweetwater carries them,
although their online store doesn't list anything that would be useful for
MOTM patching.<<

I have a bunch of Cable-up's short patchbay cables. For some reason they don't 
work all that great with the MOTM. It seems like their connection is too loose, 
and when using them from a breakout box to control my VCO's, sometimes the 
VCO's sound out of tune or inproperly scaled until I unplug and replug the 
Cable-up cables a couple of times. Not the best connection there.

-Elhardt

I have a bunch of Hosa patch cables in different lengths up to 3 
feet.  They work great.  I also use .com cables for longer runs and 
for audio.  They also work great.  In combination, you can get 
economy and performance.  Though if I had more ready cash, I would 
probably buy more .com cables.

Mike

--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, Scott Gibbons <scott.gibbons@m...> wrote:
> I've been very happy with my .com cables. Hosa feels like a VA by 
comparison

> ;-) They're color coded, sturdy, everything you need.
> 
> best,
> - Scott
> ____________
> http://www.red-noise.com
> http://www.strawberryplanet.org

> I know I've heard the name Cable-up elsewhere--or rather I 
know I've heard
> it and I've never been in a Mars store... Yes, Sweetwater carries 
them,
> although their online store doesn't list anything that would be 
useful for
> MOTM patching. But still, it looks like Mars is not their only 
distributor.

II bought a few of these cables awhile ago. They sat unused 
because the 1/4 connectors on them were oxidized and 
unrealiable. I decided to make 1/4 to RCA adaptors out of them 
and when I removed the cable insulation I was shocked to find 
only _30 GAUGE_ wire in there. No shielding whatsoever either.

Jay

I just got a batch of the Peavey cables.  They're very nice for molded
cables, with cabling almost twice the diameter of the Hosa patch cables,
but very pliable.  For shorter lengths I prefer these over
Synthesizers.com or other hand made cables since the plug and cable only
stick out about 2 inches, as opposed to 4-5 inches for the metal barrel
and stiff cable type.  With a dense patch the stiffer cables could be an
impediment for knob twiddling.

John Loffink
jloffink@... 

> I have a bunch of Hosa patch cables in different lengths up to 3
> feet.  They work great.  I also use .com cables for longer runs and
> for audio.  They also work great.  In combination, you can get
> economy and performance.  Though if I had more ready cash, I would
> probably buy more .com cables.
>

Yes, I pefer the Gosa for that reason, too.  However, the heavier 
gauge (or thicker plastic?) of the Peavey cables is intriguing.  
Where did you buy them, I'd like to take a look...

Mike

--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "John Loffink" <jloffink@a...> wrote:
> I just got a batch of the Peavey cables.  They're very nice for 
molded
> cables, with cabling almost twice the diameter of the Hosa patch 
cables,
> but very pliable.  For shorter lengths I prefer these over
> Synthesizers.com or other hand made cables since the plug and cable 
only
> stick out about 2 inches, as opposed to 4-5 inches for the metal 
barrel
> and stiff cable type.  With a dense patch the stiffer cables could 
be an
> impediment for knob twiddling.
> 
> John Loffink
> jloffink@a... 
> 
> > I have a bunch of Hosa patch cables in different lengths up to 3
> > feet.  They work great.  I also use .com cables for longer runs 
and

> > for audio.  They also work great.  In combination, you can get
> > economy and performance.  Though if I had more ready cash, I would
> > probably buy more .com cables.
> >

errr, Hosa...

--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Marsh <mmarsh@s...>" <mmarsh@s...> 
wrote:
> Yes, I pefer the Gosa for that reason, too.  However, the heavier 
> gauge (or thicker plastic?) of the Peavey cables is intriguing.  
> Where did you buy them, I'd like to take a look...
> 
> Mike
> 
> --- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "John Loffink" <jloffink@a...> wrote:
> > I just got a batch of the Peavey cables.  They're very nice for 
> molded
> > cables, with cabling almost twice the diameter of the Hosa patch 
> cables,
> > but very pliable.  For shorter lengths I prefer these over
> > Synthesizers.com or other hand made cables since the plug and 
cable 
> only
> > stick out about 2 inches, as opposed to 4-5 inches for the metal 
> barrel
> > and stiff cable type.  With a dense patch the stiffer cables 
could 
> be an
> > impediment for knob twiddling.
> > 
> > John Loffink
> > jloffink@a... 
> > 
> > > I have a bunch of Hosa patch cables in different lengths up to 3
> > > feet.  They work great.  I also use .com cables for longer runs 
> and
> > > for audio.  They also work great.  In combination, you can get
> > > economy and performance.  Though if I had more ready cash, I 
would
> > > probably buy more .com cables.
> > >

http://www.peavey.com

Apparently these will ship from the nearest retailer with them in stock.
I got them in just a matter of days.

Since they are molded it is hard to say whether the wire gauge or
shielding is any better.

John Loffink
jloffink@... 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Marsh <mmarsh@...> [mailto:mmarsh@...]
> Sent: Monday, December 16, 2002 2:21 PM
> To: motm@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [motm] Re: 1/4" Patch Cables
> 
> 
> errr, Hosa...
> 
> --- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Marsh <mmarsh@s...>" <mmarsh@s...>
> wrote:
> > Yes, I pefer the Gosa for that reason, too.  However, the heavier
> > gauge (or thicker plastic?) of the Peavey cables is intriguing.
> > Where did you buy them, I'd like to take a look...
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > --- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "John Loffink" <jloffink@a...> wrote:
> > > I just got a batch of the Peavey cables.  They're very nice for
> > molded
> > > cables, with cabling almost twice the diameter of the Hosa patch
> > cables,
> > > but very pliable.  For shorter lengths I prefer these over
> > > Synthesizers.com or other hand made cables since the plug and
> cable
> > only
> > > stick out about 2 inches, as opposed to 4-5 inches for the metal
> > barrel
> > > and stiff cable type.  With a dense patch the stiffer cables
> could
> > be an
> > > impediment for knob twiddling.
> > >
> > > John Loffink
> > > jloffink@a...
> > >
> > > > I have a bunch of Hosa patch cables in different lengths up to 3
> > > > feet.  They work great.  I also use .com cables for longer runs
> > and
> > > > for audio.  They also work great.  In combination, you can get
> > > > economy and performance.  Though if I had more ready cash, I
> would
> > > > probably buy more .com cables.
> > > >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>

My curiosity got the better of me.  Here's what I measured for
resistance on patch cables with my 5-6 digit multimeter (0.1% accuracy,
.01 ohm resolution). Consider these relative numbers since this is near
the bottom of my meter's range. I have subtracted out probe resistance.

Make				Signal resistance	Shield
resistance
Hosa				0.35 ohm		0.34 ohm
Peavey			0.19 ohm		0.21 ohm
Synthesizers.com		0.11 ohm		0.18 ohm

I did not have any 3 foot Cable-ups to test.  

Based upon this I would recommend the Peavey's over the Hosa's.  They
look and feel nicer too, and are cheaper to boot.

John Loffink
jloffink@... 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Loffink [mailto:jloffink@...]
> Sent: Monday, December 16, 2002 2:37 PM
> To: mmarsh@...; motm@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [motm] Re: 1/4" Patch Cables
> 
> http://www.peavey.com
> 
> Apparently these will ship from the nearest retailer with them in
stock.

> I got them in just a matter of days.
> 
> Since they are molded it is hard to say whether the wire gauge or
> shielding is any better.
> 
> John Loffink
> jloffink@...
>

I have only two cables in my studio for 1/4". I either make them myself 
using switchcraft plugs, or I purchase high end PRO-Co cables. Don't 
make the mistake of getting cheap cables. It is so frustrating to spend 
the time to find an intermitant cable on a complex patch, it just isn't 
worth the money saved, to me, for the time spent. Just my opinion.

I haven't checked out the Peavey cables though. They may also be a good 
choice.

Scott
---------------------------------------------
John Loffink wrote:

> I just got a batch of the Peavey cables.  They're very nice for molded
> cables, with cabling almost twice the diameter of the Hosa patch cables,
> but very pliable.  For shorter lengths I prefer these over
> Synthesizers.com or other hand made cables since the plug and cable only
> stick out about 2 inches, as opposed to 4-5 inches for the metal barrel
> and stiff cable type.  With a dense patch the stiffer cables could be an
> impediment for knob twiddling.
> 
> John Loffink
> jloffink@... 
> 
> 
>>I have a bunch of Hosa patch cables in different lengths up to 3
>>feet.  They work great.  I also use .com cables for longer runs and
>>for audio.  They also work great.  In combination, you can get
>>economy and performance.  Though if I had more ready cash, I would
>>probably buy more .com cables.
>>
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 
>

I agree with this in principle.  In practice, I've never had an 
intermittent Hosa, but I do take good care with them (no yanking by 
the wire).  Curiously, I did have an intermitant .com cable, which I 
opend up and re-soldered.

BTW, I've only had the Hosas for not quite two years.  I can't speak 
to their longevity.  Can't find the 3' version anymore.

Mike

--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "Scott Evans, Gen Mgr" 
<esresource@e...> wrote:
> I have only two cables in my studio for 1/4". I either make them 
myself 
> using switchcraft plugs, or I purchase high end PRO-Co cables. 
Don't 
> make the mistake of getting cheap cables. It is so frustrating to 
spend 
> the time to find an intermitant cable on a complex patch, it just 
isn't 
> worth the money saved, to me, for the time spent. Just my opinion.
> 
> I haven't checked out the Peavey cables though. They may also be a 
good 
> choice.
> 
> Scott
> ---------------------------------------------
> John Loffink wrote:
> > I just got a batch of the Peavey cables.  They're very nice for 
molded
> > cables, with cabling almost twice the diameter of the Hosa patch 
cables,
> > but very pliable.  For shorter lengths I prefer these over
> > Synthesizers.com or other hand made cables since the plug and 
cable only
> > stick out about 2 inches, as opposed to 4-5 inches for the metal 
barrel
> > and stiff cable type.  With a dense patch the stiffer cables 
could be an
> > impediment for knob twiddling.
> > 
> > John Loffink
> > jloffink@a... 
> > 
> > 
> >>I have a bunch of Hosa patch cables in different lengths up to 3
> >>feet.  They work great.  I also use .com cables for longer runs 
and
> >>for audio.  They also work great.  In combination, you can get
> >>economy and performance.  Though if I had more ready cash, I 
would
> >>probably buy more .com cables.
> >>
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to 
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 

> > 
> > 
> >

I was wondering about a module to allow an audio signal from a 
recording device, such as a Protools interface or other pro-audio 
equipment, to be sent into and out of a motm system?

What I would like is to send a +4 'pro' line level audio signal into 
the MOTM system using an xlr cable and then send it back out of the 
motm system into the +4 device.

It could be used to send recorded signals from Protools into the motm 
system/format for processing and back out to be recorded into the 
Protools mix. You could also use it to send synth audio into rack 
mount effects devices and back again.

Maybe it would be better to use a high quality DI (like the Avalon U5 
DIs I already have) to get the signal back into Protools, but I would 
like an easy way to convert the xlr line level output from Protools 
to the motm level/format.

Maybe it would be useful to have +4/-10/mic/synth/guitar levels, 
metering, and trim as well.

Any thoughts/ideas?

Thanks,
Simon
Canberra
AUSTRALIA

I agree that, with proper treatment, any quality cable should give long 
years of service. Carefull patching will not only extend cable life but 
prevent other equipment damage as well. My cables are 18 years old now 
and still function fine.

Regards,

Scott
---------------------------------------------
Mike Marsh wrote:

> I agree with this in principle.  In practice, I've never had an 
> intermittent Hosa, but I do take good care with them (no yanking by 
> the wire).  Curiously, I did have an intermitant .com cable, which I 
> opend up and re-soldered.
> 
> BTW, I've only had the Hosas for not quite two years.  I can't speak 
> to their longevity.  Can't find the 3' version anymore.
> 
> Mike
>

At 9:03 AM +1100 12/18/02, Simon wrote:
>
>I was wondering about a module to allow an audio signal from a
>recording device, such as a Protools interface or other pro-audio
>equipment, to be sent into and out of a motm system?
>
>What I would like is to send a +4 'pro' line level audio signal into
>the MOTM system using an xlr cable and then send it back out of the
>motm system into the +4 device.
>
>It could be used to send recorded signals from Protools into the motm
>system/format for processing and back out to be recorded into the
>Protools mix. You could also use it to send synth audio into rack
>mount effects devices and back again.

I don't have any problems doing that with MOTM the way it is now.

At 10Vp-p it's already at professional "line level".  To put it another
way, it's too hot to be "-10".  Ideally, you want a signal going into a
24-bit AD converter to meter at around -6dB (remember digital meters run
backwards).  That is quite close to the output level of MOTM, and many AD
converters and all mixers have adjustable gain at their inputs.  While the
maximum output of pro gear is greater than 13dBu, that's easily adjusted,
and many of the modules have input attenuators.

Of course, MOTM is not balanced, nor should it be.  If you need balanced
you could easily build your own matchbox, buy one from Aphex, or use a
small mixer such as a Mackie 1202 right next to your modular.

>Maybe it would be better to use a high quality DI (like the Avalon U5
>DIs I already have) to get the signal back into Protools, but I would
>like an easy way to convert the xlr line level output from Protools
>to the motm level/format.

Imho, you won't gain anything from the Avalon with possible exception of
"desirable artifacts".  Many of the MOTM modules use OP275's as output
amps, which you will often find on the best solid-state equipment, and are
quite capable of driving low input impedances.

>  >What I would like is to send a +4 'pro' line level audio signal into
>>the MOTM system using an xlr cable and then send it back out of the
>>motm system into the +4 device.
>>It could be used to send recorded signals from Protools into the motm
>>system/format for processing and back out to be recorded into the
>>Protools mix. You could also use it to send synth audio into rack
>>mount effects devices and back again.

>I don't have any problems doing that with MOTM the way it is now.
>
>At 10Vp-p it's already at professional "line level".  To put it another
>way, it's too hot to be "-10".  Ideally, you want a signal going into a
>24-bit AD converter to meter at around -6dB (remember digital meters run
>backwards).

What is the theory behind the -6dB recommendation? I assumed that you 
would want each individual recording to peak as close as possible to 
0dB without clipping.


>That is quite close to the output level of MOTM, and many AD
>converters and all mixers have adjustable gain at their inputs.  While the
>maximum output of pro gear is greater than 13dBu, that's easily adjusted,
>and many of the modules have input attenuators.

My Protools interfaces do not have adjustable gain, neither do a lot 
of effects boxes that are set to various different reference levels, 
guiatr/-10line/+4line/etc..


>Of course, MOTM is not balanced, nor should it be.  If you need balanced
>you could easily build your own matchbox, buy one from Aphex, or use a
>small mixer such as a Mackie 1202 right next to your modular.

I would like a module instead of using an external box/mixer/etc.

I would like to be able to plug in signal direct from various 
sources, such as balanced +4 from Protools/instruments like guitar, 
bass, keyboards/mics/etc.

It would be nice have a module that has these sort of inputs with 
attenuation and a meter to see how close to the motm 10Vp-p the 
incoming signal is, and have high quality circuits/components to keep 
the audio path as clean as possible.


Out of interest, how do the audio levels of the different motm 
'compatible' modulars such as oakley/blacet/jh/etc. compare to the 
10vp-p of motm?


>  >Maybe it would be better to use a high quality DI (like the Avalon U5
>>DIs I already have) to get the signal back into Protools, but I would
>>like an easy way to convert the xlr line level output from Protools
>  >to the motm level/format.

>Imho, you won't gain anything from the Avalon with possible exception of
>"desirable artifacts".  Many of the MOTM modules use OP275's as output
>amps, which you will often find on the best solid-state equipment, and are
>quite capable of driving low input impedances.

I use the Avalon DIs to get the signal as hot as possible without 
clipping going into the Protools interfaces, since the interfaces 
have no gain adjustment.

The Avalon U5 DIs are solid state, and designed for as pure a signal 
as possible, without artifacts (I think).


Thanks,
Simon
Canberra
AUSTRALIA

-----Original Message-----
From: Simon [mailto:simon@...]

>Of course, MOTM is not balanced, nor should it be. If you need balanced
>you could easily build your own matchbox, buy one from Aphex, or use a
>small mixer such as a Mackie 1202 right next to your modular.

I would like a module instead of using an external box/mixer/etc.

I would like to be able to plug in signal direct from various
sources, such as balanced +4 from Protools/instruments like guitar,
bass, keyboards/mics/etc.

[Chris Walcott]

What about the MOTM mixer module? It doesn't have a meter but it would give you the ability to boost or attenuate your signals. And I agree that a 1202 might just be the ticket. I have one and plan on using it with my rig in the studio.

- chris

This modules is a fall 2003 introduction. And it's going to be "hi end". Like Avalon/Summit

Paul S.

At 10:24 AM +1100 12/19/02, Simon wrote:
>
>What is the theory behind the -6dB recommendation? I assumed that you
>would want each individual recording to peak as close as possible to
>0dB without clipping.

Exactly.  Please, keep in mind that digital meters do vary, and I was
making a general statement.  If you are using 24-bit converters, it is no
longer as important to try to squeeze out every last bit of resolution.
Transients become more of an issue, and according to some, even more of an
issue at higher sampling rates.

>My Protools interfaces do not have adjustable gain, neither do a lot
>of effects boxes that are set to various different reference levels,
>guiatr/-10line/+4line/etc..

The Digidesign boxes without adjustable gain are less suited as "front
ends", even when dealing with "+4" line level signals, which vary greatly.
Most people use them with mixers or pre-amps of some sort.

>It would be nice have a module that has these sort of inputs with
>attenuation and a meter to see how close to the motm 10Vp-p the
>incoming signal is, and have high quality circuits/components to keep
>the audio path as clean as possible.

While I'm sure we all have high hopes for Paul's module, there are plenty
of devices that can already do that.

>Out of interest, how do the audio levels of the different motm
>'compatible' modulars such as oakley/blacet/jh/etc. compare to the
>10vp-p of motm?

I don't know about Blacet -- I have a uW panel and no kit, and a TM kit but
no panel :)  The Oakley mixer can output levels way beyond 10Vp-p, so care
should be taken when using it.

>I use the Avalon DIs to get the signal as hot as possible without
>clipping going into the Protools interfaces, since the interfaces
>have no gain adjustment.
>
>The Avalon U5 DIs are solid state, and designed for as pure a signal
>as possible, without artifacts (I think).

Yes, they aren't overpriced stomp boxes like Joe Meek :)  While people to
attribute a subtle "sound" to the Avalon stuff (eg. improved bass
articulation) they are clean, which is more or less my point.  The main
function of a direct box is impedance matching, which unlike a guitar, you
don't need to interface MOTM with line-level inputs.

If you want to get levels as hot as possible, you are always going to need
a way to adjust that, regardless of the source.