RE:Blacet in a MOTM system
1999-08-31 by Dave Bradley
I had thought about paying for a silkscreen, and spreading the cost around
to whomever else is interested. You'd buy blank panels from Paul, drill
them, and send them to me for the screening. I'm not near as ambitious as to
build my own screen - I'd probably just go to a tshirt company with a design
on a floppy and have them make the screen. If anyone else that wants to
volunteer, speak up - I'm more than happy to hand them the ball. We would
all just need to agree on the panel design.
There are some other issues as well. Blacet's pots and the pushbutton switch
in the kit are too short to mount through the thick MOTM panel. You won't
have any threads left to screw a nut on. Also, you can't mount the pots
directly to the pcb if you want MOTM pot spacing on the panel (I do.) Third,
the DarkStar pcb does not have mounting holes to mount to the MOTM pcb
bracket.
I'm using different pots and switches with longer collars, mounting the pots
off board with twisted wire ala normal MOTM procedures, and drilling holes
in the pcb for mounting it securely to the bracket. I'll use nylon standoffs
and bolts since I will be near other traces.
On the good side, the MOTM panel form factor allows for 2 more jacks than
are present on the standard DarkStar, which I'll use to add VC inputs for
Attack and Decay (just need to add 1 resistor per jack to the pcb).
Dave Bradley
Principal Software Engineer
Engineering Animation, Inc.
daveb@...
to whomever else is interested. You'd buy blank panels from Paul, drill
them, and send them to me for the screening. I'm not near as ambitious as to
build my own screen - I'd probably just go to a tshirt company with a design
on a floppy and have them make the screen. If anyone else that wants to
volunteer, speak up - I'm more than happy to hand them the ball. We would
all just need to agree on the panel design.
There are some other issues as well. Blacet's pots and the pushbutton switch
in the kit are too short to mount through the thick MOTM panel. You won't
have any threads left to screw a nut on. Also, you can't mount the pots
directly to the pcb if you want MOTM pot spacing on the panel (I do.) Third,
the DarkStar pcb does not have mounting holes to mount to the MOTM pcb
bracket.
I'm using different pots and switches with longer collars, mounting the pots
off board with twisted wire ala normal MOTM procedures, and drilling holes
in the pcb for mounting it securely to the bracket. I'll use nylon standoffs
and bolts since I will be near other traces.
On the good side, the MOTM panel form factor allows for 2 more jacks than
are present on the standard DarkStar, which I'll use to add VC inputs for
Attack and Decay (just need to add 1 resistor per jack to the pcb).
Dave Bradley
Principal Software Engineer
Engineering Animation, Inc.
daveb@...
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> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Bivins [mailto:david@...]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 1999 3:26 PM
> To: motm@onelist.com
> Subject: RE: [motm] Is this thing working?
>
>
> From: "David Bivins" <david@...>
>
> Screenprinting's a custom job isn't much more difficult than etching your
> own PCB. I've considered doing custom MOTM panels myself, but,
> well, I don't
> have anything to put behind them yet!
>
> Here's what you do:
>
> A design. You could do this on a computer.
> A piece of acetate (or suitably clear material) with your image on it
> (positive, NOT negative).
> A silk (or synthetic substitute) screen. You can build it yourself or buy
> one. Notes on building yourself if you ask.
> Photoemulsion. This stuff comes in sheets now, so you should be
> able to buy
> small amounts from some sort of art/craft shop.
> Follow the instructions for adhering the emulsion to the screen.
> Lay the photo positive (the acetate) on the screen and expose to horribly
> bright light (the sun will work).
> The light hardens the emulsion, leaving the positive image soft and
> water-soluble. Wash out the screen (the water washes out where
> you want the
> ink to go through).
> Get some suitable ink (don't know what kind's used for metal,
> actually--I'm
> used to textiles).
> Build a simple jig for the panel to keep it still.
> Center the screen over the panel, put some ink on the screen (not in the
> image, but off to the side or above or whatever)
> Use a silk-screen printing squeegee and draw the ink across.
> Cure the ink if necessary.
>
> Bingo. New panel.
>
> I've been doing this (haven't in recent years) since I was a
> little boy and
> my Dad started his business--back then, there weren't printed t-shirts
> really--they were undershirts, and you certainly didn't print slogans on
> them! He hand-made all of his equipment, including the squeegees, screens,
> etc. No photosensitive emulsion either--he hand cut all his
> designs. He's a
> remarkable draftsman and did great work.
>
> It's easy, fun and time-consuming. Try it!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tentochi [mailto:tentochi@...]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 1999 12:02 PM
> To: motm@onelist.com
> Subject: RE: [motm] Is this thing working?
>
>
> From: "Tentochi" <tentochi@...>
>
> Dave--
> I thought about doing this too! Would it be cheeper to do
> two panels?
> --Shemp
>
> > Re Blancet: I have a current project in which I am mounting
> Dark Star pcb
> > behind a MOTM blank panel. I am contemplating paying for a silkscreen to
> > label the panel since I can't find the right transfer letters. I'll let
> > everyone know how it comes out.
> >
> > Dave Bradley
>
>
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