MOTM

Paul,

That's exactly what I did. It feels a little strange when you are
doing it because there are only 2 pots in vertical line to hold it,
but it comes out fine in the end.

Moe

>>>>

ps - how were people mounting their mini-wave stooge panel combos..?
i ordered a stooge long bracket and hacked it down (rather badly) is
this really the best way..?
<<<<

hello all,

okay then, next question:

for the LEDs, i mistakenly selected something like a 3.5mm bit for this part
of the panel, so:

i can either make the best of a bad job with 3mm LEDs, glue and some sort of
black stuff (glue & paint..?)
i could actually get some cylindrical 3mm LEDs and experiment with
heatshrink to get them to fit...

or i can risk going to 5mm - has anyone attempted fitting 5mm LEDs to their
mini-wave stooge panel WITHOUT ending up chain drilling a big hole...?

cheers
paul b

Err,

I'm just a poor metrically challenged American Stooge - the correct
size hole is 1/8" (you DID read my webpage on drilling, didn't you?)

http://www.users.qwest.net/~daveb2/drill_howto.htm

Moe

>>>>

for the LEDs, i mistakenly selected something like a 3.5mm bit for
this part of the panel, so:
<<<<

In a message dated 9/9/2001 9:35:56 AM, vulture.squadron@... writes:

>i can either make the best of a bad job with 3mm LEDs, glue and some sort
>of
>black stuff (glue & paint..?)
>i could actually get some cylindrical 3mm LEDs and experiment with
>heatshrink to get them to fit...
>

You probably know what those cheapo LED mounting rings look like (similar to
a hard black plastic grommet type of deal). If the ones for a 3mm LED will
fit next to each other on the Miniwave panel (really tight fit to be sure),
you could probably use heatshrink, glue, or small cable ties to hold them in
place from the back if there isn't enough metal to hold them in.

JB

> I'm just a poor metrically challenged American Stooge - the correct
> size hole is 1/8" (you DID read my webpage on drilling, didn't you?)

nope, didn't

the problem was just just picked up the wrong bit - i was aiming for 3mm,
and then widen the hole from there if need be (1/8" is 3.17mm - there's
25.4mm to the inch) - ho hum metalwork is not my strong point, it's a
miracle that the holes are in a straight line

i think i'm going down the cylindrical LED & heatshrink route first

cheers
paul b

on 9/10/01 4:32 AM, sikorsky at vulture.squadron@... wrote:

>> I'm just a poor metrically challenged American Stooge - the correct
>> size hole is 1/8" (you DID read my webpage on drilling, didn't you?)
>
> nope, didn't
>
> the problem was just just picked up the wrong bit - i was aiming for 3mm,
> and then widen the hole from there if need be (1/8" is 3.17mm - there's
> 25.4mm to the inch) - ho hum metalwork is not my strong point, it's a
> miracle that the holes are in a straight line
>
> i think i'm going down the cylindrical LED & heatshrink route first
>

I have a question.... I've only finished soldering the Miniwave PCB. I
plan on mounting it in a week or two. One thing I've noticed that baffles me
a bit.... On a standard(non-MOTM) Miniwave kit the LED's get mounted to the
top of the board so when you screw the bracket on to the plate, they go
right into the Blacet faceplate. I noticed that on the MOTM Miniwave
faceplate the holes for the LED's are in a completely different place. How
are people handling this?

-John

In the past I've gotten decent results by just glueing the the LED
into the hole. Apply glue around the hole on the backside of the
panel, just enough to touch the rim of the LED when it's inserted all
the way, otherwise you may get glue spewing out onto the front of the
panel.

At 4:19 PM -0400 10/9/01, Inform3r wrote:

> I have a question.... I've only finished soldering the Miniwave PCB. I
>plan on mounting it in a week or two. One thing I've noticed that baffles me
>a bit.... On a standard(non-MOTM) Miniwave kit the LED's get mounted to the
>top of the board so when you screw the bracket on to the plate, they go
>right into the Blacet faceplate. I noticed that on the MOTM Miniwave
>faceplate the holes for the LED's are in a completely different place. How
>are people handling this?
>
> -John

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Scott Juskiw
scott@...

> I noticed that on the MOTM Miniwave
> faceplate the holes for the LED's are in a completely different place. How
> are people handling this?

"magic"

cheers
paul b

>>>>

I noticed that on the MOTM Miniwave faceplate the holes for the LED's
are in a completely different place. How are people handling this?
<<<<

On the original MW from Wiard, the LEDs are mounted on a subassembly
consisting of a small pcb with a ribbon cable attached. Mine is
actually not mounted at all, but just holds in the holes through
friction. If I would put a little dab of silicone RTV at each end of
the pcb, it would hold fine.

I'd suggest this as a possible mounting strategy for the Blacet
version also. Cut up a generic pcb from Rat Shack to physically hold
the LEDs together, then mount the whole thing with RTV. That's the
approach I'll probably take - including using the ribbon cable to cut
down on wiring clutter.

Moe

Would have been nice if the MOTM panel made use of the on board LEDs. It
looks very nice on the regular Blacet FP. But I think there was a vote
going against doing that.....

--
___________________
John Blacet
Blacet Research
http://www.blacet.com

on 9/10/01 7:05 PM, mate_stubb@... at mate_stubb@... wrote:

>>>>>
> I noticed that on the MOTM Miniwave faceplate the holes for the LED's
> are in a completely different place. How are people handling this?
> <<<<
>
> On the original MW from Wiard, the LEDs are mounted on a subassembly
> consisting of a small pcb with a ribbon cable attached. Mine is
> actually not mounted at all, but just holds in the holes through
> friction. If I would put a little dab of silicone RTV at each end of
> the pcb, it would hold fine.
>
> I'd suggest this as a possible mounting strategy for the Blacet
> version also. Cut up a generic pcb from Rat Shack to physically hold
> the LEDs together, then mount the whole thing with RTV. That's the
> approach I'll probably take - including using the ribbon cable to cut
> down on wiring clutter.
>
> Moe

That sounds great. Please post some pics when its finished.

-John

> I'd suggest this as a possible mounting strategy for the Blacet
> version also. Cut up a generic pcb from Rat Shack to physically hold
> the LEDs together, then mount the whole thing with RTV. That's the
> approach I'll probably take - including using the ribbon cable to cut
> down on wiring clutter.

as if by magic, my farnell order arrived this morning...

hello all,
what a great idea - a bit of stripboard to keep all the LEDs in check
i found a set of 4mm cylindrical LEDs which at the moment don't fit in my
oversized holes - so i plan to make them fit by carefully (this time) filing
out the panel until i can jam each LED in, in this case i should need any
glue and the piece of stripboard should stop any individual LEDs from coming
loose

i suppose if you were that way inclined you could use an oversized piece of
stripboard and put a small bolt through the panel (cue stooge scream)

cheers
paul b